Problems with a mold... Can I fix it?

[Green_Canoe]

I have a two cavity Lyman mold for a 200 gr SWC .45 I was trying to use for the first time this weekend. One cavity was giving me finned bullets and the other bullets with wiskers. After I changed gears and cast other bullets with my melted lead, I examined the mold to discover one of the locating pins was either sticking out too far or was too large a diameter to enter the locating hole. This didn't allow the mold to close fully on one side by maybe 0.010".

What is the best way to solve this issue or should I contact Lyman?

[Rat-Man]

Those pins are pressed in. I have, in the past, adjusted some on my molds by placing the mold half on something solid and tapping it with a brass rod and hammer to move it. If its a brand new mold you could return it to Lyman but it might take a while to get back.

Rat-Man

[MtGun44]

put a hard boolit or brass rod on the pin and tap it a hair deeper.

Bill

[Sensai]

If you have a vise, it works better than tapping in my experience. Before you do either, though, you need to make sure that the problem isn't something in the hole preventing the pin from going all the way in.

[John Boy]

If you have a vise, it works better than tapping in my experience. If going the vise route, which I do with troublesome molds ... be sure to put brass or lead shims between the jaws

[Mk42gunner]

The one time that I had to adjust the alignment pins on a Lyman mould, they were in very tight and took a pretty solid whack with a two pound hammer to move. Don't just start beating on it, the pins might move suprisingly easy.

Move the pins and try the mold halves, if it looks good with no rocking; try to cast a few. I like to sneak up on the correct adjustment, instead of going too far then having to adjust it the other way.

Robert

[Green_Canoe]

Thanks for the options. I was considering sending to Lyman but that's such a hassle if it can be fixed by pressing the pin in a little further. It's a little disappointing to hear that it doesn't seem too uncommon.

I'll try the vise (or an arbor press at work) approach. With my luck using a hammer will guarantee it goes in too far.

[462]

Remove the mould from the handles, close it and hold it up to a strong light and look where the two halves meet. If the alignment pins are properly adjusted, you will not see any light. If you can see any light, the pins need tweeking.

Also, make sure there isn't a lead splatter on the mould faces, and that the vent lines are free of lead.

[Mk42gunner]

462,

Good advice, I can't believe we all gave recommendations about moving the pins, but didn't tell him how to check for the proper distance.

On the one that I did the pins were stuck so tight they put a round divot in the end of a brass punch. I ended up using a steel one to get the pins to move. It wasn't like I was going to ruin a good mold, I bought it as a project from one of the members here.

I still have to lap it so it throws round boolits, but at least it works now.

Robert

[Green_Canoe]

There was no lead between the faces. The pin was just too far out to allow the faces to touch. Now for my new problem:

I tried pressing the pin in and it flattened the tip before it broke loose with a big bang. The pin now resembles a very subtle mushroom. Of course, this means the mold blocks will still not close together accurately and never will.[smilie=b:

Now that the pin broke free I punched it out of the block but I need a replacement. I looked at my usual sources for fixture pins but, unfortunately, I didn't find a direct replacement. How is Lyman's customer service? Do I have to go to Lyman for one of these or is there a another source that is better?

Worse case I can machine a round onto the buggered pin but if it's a $2 pin I can't hardly afford the machine time.

[stubshaft]

Can't you chuck it in a drill and dress the end?

[montana_charlie]

I agree with stubshaft.
Put the pin in a drill (or drill press) and lick it lightly with wet & dry paper or a sharp file until the mushroom shape goes away.

Check it periodically to see if it will enter the alignment hole in the opposite mould face.

CM

[Green_Canoe]

Sounds like a good plan. I'm off to try it.

[Green_Canoe]

Success!!!

I should have seen the obvious answer in the drill press but I was too frustrated to see the "light".

Thanks for the help!

[Mk42gunner]

Success!!!

I should have seen the obvious answer in the drill press but I was too frustrated to see the "light".

Thanks for the help!

Some times we are too close to the problem and can't think of the obvious answer.

Glad you got it working.

Robert

[462]

"Some times we are too close to the problem and can't think of the obvious answer."

Robert, you have reduced my entire life to one sentence. It just may be that you have made the rest of it much easier.

Thank you, sir!

[Mk42gunner]

You are welcome.

Just how do you think I knew the answer????

Robert