Redhawk Acts Like Colt Walker

[9.3X62AL]

OK, here goes with a small but annoying problem I have with my long-owned and much-loved Ruger Redhawk in 44 Magnum with 5.5" barrel/blue steel. It reminds me a great deal of a friend's Colt Walker (Uberti) repro, in that 1) it weighs a young ton 2) is nominally in 44 caliber and 3) the cylinder begins to bind on its arbor after about 6-7 cylinders-full of shooting. All smokeless loads, whether cast/lubed or jacketed, produce this effect. Overnight immersion in Hoppe's of the cylinder sub-assembly frees the rotation up, but by the time the next 35-40 rounds are fired--the binding begins anew. CLP works just as well (or, rather, as poorly), and it's pretty obvious to me that something isn't right.

The revolver is accurate and tractable when clean, but long range sessions ain't happening. That needs to change.

1) Is this a common problem with Redhawks of any vintage? Mine is about 17-18 years old.

2) I'm not going to detail-strip the cylinder assembly. That looks like factory stuff to me. Has anyone else found a fix for a like/similar problem?

TIA!

[jrayborn]

I think the solution to your issue can only be to detail strip the cylinder. Could be that it is very dirty, and it is what causes the binding, or it could also be that if it has never been stripped down, that it could be a bit corroded, or most likely there could be small metal chips in the cylinder that were not properly removed during manufacture and assembly.

I know my Redhawk does not have that issue, but I did just tear down a speed-six, and wow, I bet I removed a teaspoon of lead/lube/gunk. Very dirty in there...

[Frank]

Powders are dirty, and lube gets all gunked up. Switch to a clean powder, like Vihtaviouri and use a hard lube.

[Mk42gunner]

I had a couple of Stainless 5.5" Redhawks back in the late eighties/ early nineties, they never had the binding issue that yours does.

I think the cylinder assembly needs taken apart and looked at. It sounds to me like there is a either a burr or misfitted parts. I cannot remember ever taking the cylinder assembly apart on mine; but it shoudn't be too hard for an armorer familiar with the lesser Ruger revolvers.

You could always shoot a cylinder full of BP loads to show it what could happen if it doesn't straighten up.:kidding:

Robert

[MT Gianni]

It doesn't happen with my stainless 5.5". I would try Franks suggestion of a powder change first as it seems to happen with J-words as well as cast it shouldn't be lube. Heat activated seizure maybe? Could it be raising the temp of the cylinder enough to cause swelling of it and it's arbor? Probably burrs or a slightly bent shaft somewhere but it would need a teardown to find them.

[9.3X62AL]

I sorta figured a tear-down would figure into this. In 40-odd years of gun hobbycrafting, I haven't yet had to bring a bag-o'-parts to a gunsmith or factory. There's a first time for everything, I suppose. :)

Gianni, I don't think firing heat is the core issue. When it starts binding, it stays bound up after it sits a while. Only the solvent bath resolves it, and plenty of crud dislodges--followed by a fairly free-wheeling cylinder. Very little end-shake, and no excessive runout at either end that I can feel.

I may send this off to Ruger after a phone call or E-mail to the company.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI
I have owned 2 Redhawks neither did any binding. Once did a 200 round range session . But most sessions were only 50-60 rounds.:Fire::Fire:

[freedom475]

The Redhawk is pretty simple..It is not much of a challenge to take it apart and put back together...The S&W 29 on the other hand has got tons of parts.:popcorn:

[David LaPell]

I've never had a Redhawk but every revolver should be taken down eventually, not completely to the frame mind you, but at least the cylinder where alot of gunk and sludge build up. I hate looking at a nice revolver in a shop (especially prone to Smith's) where you open the cylinder and it barely moves because it hasn't been oiled since Reagan was a cowboy. All revolvers, no matter the brand and model should have that cylinder looked at once in a while, alot of **** builds up in there and it needs to be cleaned out.

[44man]

Clean and LUBE! Do you clean your engine with solvents and leave the oil pan empty?

[Hang Fire]

Whart is the cylinder/barrel gap, what is the end play of cylinder? Maybe a little squeeze bottle fiilled with panther urine of choice and a few squirts (as in C&B revolvers with BP) in the right places during firing sessions might help.