derimming unannealed.22

[arjacobson]

Are some of you guys having luck derimming without annealing? I had a bunch of trouble with annealed brass and out of sheer frustration ran one that was hard.. It ran PERFECT... I went ahead and did 2-3 hundred last night without much trouble at all.. Not much sticking-no tear outs-only had one that had a small rip on the end. Now should I anneal before pointing or just run them as is?

[Reload3006]

I never anneal until after deriming.

[MIBULLETS]

I second that. I tried it once because others said it was easier. Not with my die. It was about twice as hard. If you look real hard, I found a place on Corbin's website and in one of his books where he specifically says making jackets from rimfire brass is the exception to the rule of annealing first.

[Utah Shooter]

I never anneal until after deriming.

Yup. Never anneal first.

[arjacobson]

That is exactly what I found out..Ok next step.....lol

[Grandpas50AE]

Same here as the rest of you guys. As a matter of fact, most of the ones for general plinking get formed without annealing, and the only ones that get annealed are the one I core-bond.

[newcastter]

What about magnum cases do you guys anneal them before derimming?

[Utah Shooter]

Same here as the rest of you guys. As a matter of fact, most of the ones for general plinking get formed without annealing, and the only ones that get annealed are the one I core-bond.

Ok dumb questing here but how do you core bond your cores?

[Reload3006]

Ok dumb questing here but how do you core bond your cores?

I do it by using soldering flux take a Q tip and swab some flux in the jacket put in your uniformed clean core and use a torch and melt it you have a bonded core.....

Now here is the big and I mean Big warning.. Clean Clean Clean your boolits before you go any where or do anything. because the salts in the flux will rust your dies Badly even just over night ... so Make sure you thoroughly wash the bonded boolits and spray down your dies with a rust preventative


dont ask me how I know

[MIBULLETS]

I bond the same way, but I boil them in water and baking soda to neutralize the acids in the flux after.

[MIBULLETS]

I have never derimed 22 mag cases but I assume the procedure would work the same. The thing about 22 mag cases is they are a little bigger and the brass is thicker. They won't work in some derimming dies with really close dimensions between the die and punch.

[Grandpas50AE]

Ok dumb questing here but how do you core bond your cores?

One small drop of Corbin core bond one the core and put the core in the jacket (now de-rimmed 22lr). I have a fire-brick I drilled with a masonry bit to make a stable platform for this to sit in, and then heat each with a propane torch until no more flux steam emanates from the molten core. Let cool, wash in baking soda water and the rinse. Drying can be done with a hair dryer, but I usually let them sit in the Texas sun for an hour or two. Then core seat, point form and done.

[newcastter]

One small drop of Corbin core bond one the core and put the core in the jacket (now de-rimmed 22lr). I have a fire-brick I drilled with a masonry bit to make a stable platform for this to sit in, and then heat each with a propane torch until no more flux steam emanates from the molten core. Let cool, wash in baking soda water and the rinse. Drying can be done with a hair dryer, but I usually let them sit in the Texas sun for an hour or two. Then core seat, point form and done.

So core seating and point forming wont break loose the bond?

[MIBULLETS]

Nope, they become chemically bonded. You can't hardly tear them apart with pliers.

[Grandpas50AE]

Nope, they become chemically bonded. You can't hardly tear them apart with pliers.

Correct. The few my wife used on deer penetrated to the far side of the deer after going through a few vertebrae, and retained weight was 90% of original mass. The jacket was peeled back about half way down the ogive, and the jacket and lead were still bonded together. It is a great, tough little bullet.