1847 Walker binding up!

[Skinny 1950]

I had my ASM Walker repro at the range a couple of times and can get only about five shots off before the cylinder binds up on the arbor. Has anyone else had the same problems with Walker's and if so is there any fix for it.
I tried lighter loads (25 grains) but that didn't help much,fouling gets forced into the arbor and it gets so tight it is almost impossible to turn the cylinder..[smilie=b:
The gun is really accurate and I would like to be able to get more shot off before cleaning the arbor and cylinder...any ideas appreciated.

[Mk42gunner]

I haven't shot my ASM Walker all that much, but I can get a lot more than five rounds downrange before binding occurs.

Did you lube the arbor prior to shooting? I have found that using something with the consistancy of warm vaseline helps keep my Navies (which I have shot a lot more) turning freely.

Robert

[9.3X62AL]

Heavy grease on the cylinder arbor will extend your firing strings. So will the use of high-grade powders like KIK or Swiss. Goex or Pyrodreck are wastes of time and effort in C&B revolvers. Both are little better than flammable dirt.

[Dan Cash]

Real black, and GOEX is a good powder, with some compression of the charge (no dinky wimpy loads) helps keep the fouling soft. +1 on lubricating the base pin or arbor as you call it. It is absolutely necessary.

[Skinny 1950]

I will try heavy grease on the arbor next time,real black powder is hard to find around here and Goex is the only one readily available. I should really try to find some of the better powders. I have lots of cap and ball revolvers but the arbors on them are a lot smaller and binding hasn't been a problem with them. The arbor on the Walker is close to .600 inches in diameter and looks like the front axle on a truck.

[Dale53]

I am not a cap and ball fan. However, I have shot a good bit of Black Powder and Pyrodex in a Ruger .45 Colt. I used STP on the cylinder arbor with good results.

Some of the black powder shooters have suggested that Mobil #1 Synthetic grease is best for the purpose (the red stuff):

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/other_products/mobil_1_synthetic_grease.aspx#

It's certainly worth trying. If it doesn't work you're not out much and it is an excellent general purpose grease.

FWIW
Dale53

[NickSS]

Lubing the cylinder pin is a must if you want to shoot more than one cylinder full of ammo. I generally lube mine with the same lube I use over the balls when loading. It is a mix of 40% bees wax and 50% peanut oil. This lube is very pliable and I use a cake decorator for applying the lube over the balls. It holds up better than bore butter when shooting in warmer weather.

[44man]

STP really extends shooting time. I use it on all of my revolvers.
Good grease will work too.
I use a good BPCR lube on the front of the chamber, it helps keep the lube from blowing away from cylinder gap blast.

[9.3X62AL]

Real black, and GOEX is a good powder, with some compression of the charge (no dinky wimpy loads) helps keep the fouling soft. +1 on lubricating the base pin or arbor as you call it. It is absolutely necessary.

I sure wish I could make Goex 3F run well in my C&B rollers. Compression, larger diameter balls, conicals, hotter caps--no matter. Goex is easier to find and cheaper when located, for certain. It runs GREAT in my M/L rifles, at least.

[JayinAZ]

GOEX is the only brand of BP I've ever shot. Only kind I could ever find though. Always seemed to work OK in rifles, pistols and revolvers. It has been a few years since I've bought any though and maybe things have changed.