RCBS Lubrisizer Problems

[southof106]

Hi Y'all
I am sizing 425 gr. RCBS bullets for my 45.70. I am gas checking the bullets. When I size and lube the bullet, I wind up with bullet lube under the base of the bullet. I have to stop and try to clean the lube off the bottom of the bullet. I have adjusted the depth the bullet goes into the lubrisizer, but it does not help. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Travis

[Char-Gar]

Very, very common problem. Keep downward pressure on the bullet via the lever while lubing and most will go away. There will always be a little bit of lube on the gase you will need to wipe off.

[southof106]

Thanks Chargar. I will try that.

[Sundogg1911]

are you using hard lube? If so try lowering the heat. Sometimes that will happin if the heat is too high for the lube. I ended up putting a dimmer switch on my heating element. Once it heats up I kick it back a bit and the problem goes away

[Buckshot]

..............The lube is under pressure and there is nothing under the ejector pin when pushing the boolit into the size die, so it's free to move. As the base of the boolit and face of the ejector pin pass the lube openings, a bit of lube can be injected between the two. You can try a bit less pressure but you may end up with partially filled grooves, especially if there are a couple or more.

A small bit of lube on the base is no big deal especially in a rifle cartridge. On a pistol it may make more trouble as lube on the base of a 38 may have the whole 2.7grs of Bullseye stuck on it, HA! :-)

...............Buckshot

[LAH]

Something that will help is rotating the bullet's base while removing it from the luber. This leaves the lube on the pin instead of the bullet base. It works well on my 450 Lyman.............Creeker

[Dale53]

Last night I tried to post on this and the Internet must have been jammed up. After "hitting" Post Quick Reply, several minutes later it was still oscillating but not transferring data.

Anyhoo, some years ago, in the NRA Reloading Handbook (I believe) a party suggested to chuck up the die "return punch" in your lathe. Then run a center drill into the end that contacts the bullet base until you have only a 1/16" rim for the bullet to sit on. Then drill the hole all the way through the length of the punch. They excess bullet lube will follow the path of least resistance and be forced down the punch. You also have to cut a groove across the bottom of the punch to allow the lube to escape.

I have a couple of punches done for me (I don't have a lathe) and it does really help. It doesn't totally eliminate it but it sure does take care of most of the problem.

I need to take several more punches in and have them done.

Dale53

[dragonrider]

I have done similar to what Dale has mentioned but not drilling a hole through the pin. I machined a couterbore if you will into the top of the pin. About .030" deep using a to with a 45 degree angle moved outward until the tool just reached the outside edge leaving a rim of sorts. This allows a seal to work against the GC. I also altered the pin in the same manner for bevel based boolits as it was vertualy impossible to lube them with getting a ton of lube under the boolit, after the alteration no lube under the boolit. It can help.

[MGySgt]

Thanks Dragonrider - I just got a Lee 38 158 FP that I did not notice was a slight BB.

Now I know how to fix it so I don't get a lot of lub underneath.

Or I can just send a few boolits to our resident machinest and have him make me a new Sizer die.

Drew

[Buckshot]

...............Like thusly:

http://www.fototime.com/5323B9CDF1A9125/standard.jpg

Only the face relief doesn't show well.

...............Buckshot

[454PB]

Another cause I've seen is an ill fitting nose punch. The punch will stick on the boolit nose and raise it off the center punch, which allows lube to run under the boolit base. The center punch needs to stay tight against the boolit base until it reaches the top of the die body to prevent this.

[BigSlick]

One thing not mentioned that seems to help me when I start getting lube on the base of a gc is to pull the handle rather quickly. Not jerk it down mind you, just speed up the stroke a little.

The base passes the lube holes in the size die a little quicker, giving less time for lube to flow under the base of the bullet. Then, eject with the same rapid movement.

A good top punch fit is essential.

Not exactly the high tech answer of the week, but it does seem to help me.

.02

'Slick
________
Kissing Advice Forum (http://www.love-help.org/kissing-advice/)

[Bent Ramrod]

I think the modern ratcheting lube wrench is part of the problem, at least as far as cleanly lubed boolits are concerned. It does allow you to keep the wrench pointed towards your hand, but the ratchet only goes in one direction. If the older design box wrench, without the ratchet, is used, the lube can be forced in while the lever is down, and slacked off before the lever comes up by backing off the pressure on the wrench. The ratchet does not allow this, resulting in the pad of lube under the base when the lever pressure is removed.

With troublesome casting and die combinations, I use a ratchet wrench with the reversing pawl on the outside, so I can reverse the motion to slack off the lube pressure without taking the wrench off the top and turning it over.

It seems to be different for different designs, different sizing dies and even can change during the course of a sizing/lubing session. Once the grease starts to move in the reservoir, it seems to get more motile, and easier to squeeze out into the wrong places.

[anachronism]

You can also try adjusting your stop slightly up or down. You just might have a lube port in the perfect position to lube your bullets base. Perhaps a slightly different setting might cure the problem.