Need you guy's opions??

[gcollins]

Traded for a Rem 700 in 7 mag, I didn't get it traded cheap enough to harvest the action so I don't know where it is going to go!
My7 question, I have read and i have seen a rifle shoot that should tear your head off but only a light push, now i wasn't in person I was watching video's. Shooting at 1400yds, they started off with the big 50cal pushing those guys back a foot, and these guys were not small guys, then they moved to the 7mag and again it was moving tose guys pretty good, then I saw a guy shooting a 7mmWSM with a good break and it looked like he was shooting a bolt 223 rifle.
Okay I am going to fire up the machines and tool me out a nice break, I am going to drill pretty close to the out side of that 7mag's barrel, it looks like I have a good 3" of non taper, the break will have 2 set screws in the bottom, and like I sade the tollerances will be close, will I gain anything by wiping those 3" of barrel and remove all residue doing the same with the inside of the break, then wiping a thin coat of Black ATV silcone then pushing the break on but not tightening the set screws untill it was allmost cured and then tighten, I really don't want to damage that barrel if I don't have to. If I can tame down the recoil, I would remake and thread on a break.
I would really like to keep it but my back can't take the recoil!
They tell me with the 180 BergerVDL orsomething like that with a very high BC That a man can shoot 1000yds or better, just in case he has to defend for him and his friends and neighbors against any kind of Zoombies that there might be??????????
I have never been in a fist fight in my life and untill the day I got injured I never back down if I was right, but now things are really different.

Please tell me if you think this will work?
G

[Cap'n Morgan]

Forget the set screws, they'll just mar the barrel. A threaded brake is the way to go and you only need to chop off 1/2" of barrel if you change your mind later. As for the brake itself, all you need is a piece of steel, max 2" long and 3/4" in diameter. Any bigger isn't going to make any difference worth mention.

The only real secret to an efficient brake is to keep the bore between .02 - .04 larger than the bullet - not larger, as this will reduce the efficiency. Drill a bunch of 0.2" holes in a nice pattern through the brake and you are ready to go. The 7mm Rem mag is one of the cartridges that really benefits from a muzzle brake recoil wise.

[Casting Timmy]

I'll thought about making a muzzle break for my 10/22, more just for looks than anything. A guy I know talked about drilling the holes slightly off center so the brake would want to tighten itself as you shoot it inside of loosing it. He said he liked it when a muzzle brake could be removed by hand for easy cleaning and not have to use a brass rod or similar piece to tighten it down.

How any of you guys had experience with this?

[nicholst55]

On many barrels the bore is not concentric with the OD of the barrel, and muzzle devices held in place by setscrews frequently experience bullet strike. When that happens, they can end up flying downrange. Indicating your barrel off of the bore centerline is the way to set up to thread, so that the threads are concentric with the bore. That way you can avoid launching your brake downrange and damaging your rifle.

[John Taylor]

I have installed many breaks over the years. My breaks are 2.2" long and in most cases 3/4" diameter. There is a chamber the same diameter of the miner thread diameter. I put 42 hole that are 3/16" diameter at a right angle to the bore. The holes are staggered for a nice look. I have tried to slant the holes forward 30 degrees for a quiet break and they are quieter but this reduces the efficiency to 25% reduction in testing. At 90 degrees from the bore I get 50% reduction on a 22" 308. Slanting the holes to the rear did not increase the reduction in recoil but it did make it a lot harder on the ears.
Most breaks will never be removed and get a drop of blue Loctite. Sometimes a customer wants to be able to remove the break and has a thread protector made to screw on when the break is off.

[cajun shooter]

I don't know how much experience you have with rifles that are so equipped but they are much louder than the standard rifle. They will also stir up any loose debris that is in the area of the brake including dust.
I have been shooting for many years and was trained in the army and by the FBI Sniper schools.
There are very few real life combat rifle shots at 1000 yards as most shooters are not capable of making such shots.
We have several members on this forum that do long range rifle and they will tell you that it's not a pull the trigger and watch the intended target fall.
Most real life targets at zombies as you put it, happen at ranges closer to the 100-200 yard ranges.
A FBI study of recorded kill shots over a 10 year period had the shots at a average of 77 yards.
The reason for this is that real snipers are taught how to get close to the target with out being seen before taking the shot. You are taught how to use all types of movements to be able to do this. One such trick is that you set up at the back of a room and not at a window as shown in the movies.
If you are recoil sensitive then a good mercury recoil reducer and Limb saver pad would be a better choice.Take Care David

[dragonrider]

Thread your barrel, anything else and you will more than likely launch the brake.

[gcollins]

Thanks to all!! I shouldn't of put the zombie thing in my post!! I can not take any recoil, the shock that I get travels it way down the spine and if I gamble and do shoot a gun with recoil I will spend the next couple of days in bed[smilie=b:
If I over do it at the range when shooting my 243WSSM AR I will pay the price the next day, and my 243 doesn't have any recoil!!
And the thing about the 1000yds is my goal, back before I got hurt if I would of worked at it I could of hit 2 foot square targets at a 1000yds, I would of had to work at it, but I made several 600yds while hunting. But after I got hurt I am having problems shooting 400yds.

Thanks again!
G

[waksupi]

A friend of mine who has killed around 40 people, says his longest shot was around 350 yards.

[dragonrider]

I'll thought about making a muzzle break for my 10/22, more just for looks than anything. A guy I know talked about drilling the holes slightly off center so the brake would want to tighten itself as you shoot it inside of loosing it. He said he liked it when a muzzle brake could be removed by hand for easy cleaning and not have to use a brass rod or similar piece to tighten it down.

How any of you guys had experience with this?

I made and installed this one on my MK II, surprisingly it's very effective.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/PaulGauthier/Ruger%20MK%20II/IMAG0101.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/PaulGauthier/Ruger%20MK%20II/IMAG0102.jpg

[Mumblypeg]

A friend of mine who has killed around 40 people, says his longest shot was around 350 yards.

What kind of friends do you have Waksupi?:holysheep I hope these were legal kills...:kidding:

[waksupi]

What kind of friends do you have Waksupi?:holysheep I hope these were legal kills...:kidding:

That was in the Mekong Delta. Read Steal My Soldiers Heart, by Dave Hackworth. Larry was the sniper commander.

[405]

gcollins,
Too bad about your recoil/spine thing- no fun

There are a lot of rifles/cartridges that will do or come close to doing what you are suggesting. However, to do it in the way you are thinking, takes quite a bit of horsepower. That means recoil and no way around it with most shoulder fired, conventional rifles. Add a brake to reduce recoil and the noise and compression wave that hits and affects the shooter may offset the advantages of the reduced recoil. So, no free lunch.

[Stockcarver]

Threaded only!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Below is one of the scores of brakes I have made. I will post some brake making photos as soon as I find them on the drive.

Brakes are a trade off. Noise being the main problem.

You can reduce felt recoil with a well fitted (Meaning custom) stock that is fitted and made by a stocker that knows what he is doing. Factory stocks are a joke.

My advice? Trade that 7 Mag for a nice 7x57. The 7x57 has killed hundreds of thousands more animals than the 7 Mag ever thought about, including those that shoot back.


308 on the right

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1cc26b3127ccefe9b6afc5e6200000030O02QZsmjZw5aA9 vPgw/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Dialing in to the bore

http://home.earthlink.net/~old-iron/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/steadyandbigbarrel.jpg

[DCM]

I would also go with a Limbsaver recoil pad. It is one of the "gimmicks" that actually WORKS!

Blackhawk also sells compstocks that work well in recoil reduction, BUT you NEED longer eye relief if you are using a scope as the stock compresses a bit.

Gentry makes a "Quiet brake" that I am going to have installed by them on one of my rifles. I like the Idea but cannot tell you if it works yet.

As others have said alignment is CRITICAL. That is why I am going to have Gentry do the work rather than doing it myself. I have seen firsthand what improper alignment of a muzzle device will do. :sad:

I do like your RTV Idea as a way to "try it before you buy it".

[Hardcast416taylor]

That was in the Mekong Delta. Read Steal My Soldiers Heart, by Dave Hackworth. Larry was the sniper commander.



A good friend of mine did 2 tours in the `Nam in the mid and late `60s including the Tet offensive as a Marine sniper. He doesn`t talk about his time there or much anything else about that time.Robert

[waksupi]

A good friend of mine did 2 tours in the `Nam in the mid and late `60s including the Tet offensive as a Marine sniper. He doesn`t talk about his time there or much anything else about that time.Robert

Larry doesn't talk much, either. I found out more about his time there from the book, than I ever heard from him. Then I checked his kill record on the internet, and talked to a guy that was with him that said that info was way under the actual numbers.

[frankenfab]

I have installed many breaks over the years. My breaks are 2.2" long and in most cases 3/4" diameter. There is a chamber the same diameter of the miner thread diameter. I put 42 hole that are 3/16" diameter at a right angle to the bore. The holes are staggered for a nice look. I have tried to slant the holes forward 30 degrees for a quiet break and they are quieter but this reduces the efficiency to 25% reduction in testing. At 90 degrees from the bore I get 50% reduction on a 22" 308. Slanting the holes to the rear did not increase the reduction in recoil but it did make it a lot harder on the ears.
Most breaks will never be removed and get a drop of blue Loctite. Sometimes a customer wants to be able to remove the break and has a thread protector made to screw on when the break is off.

+1 on the expansion chamber at the rear end of the brake. It makes a big difference.