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Wilson
12-28-2011, 11:36 PM
I just got my first MiHec brass mold, one of his double cavity 40 cal HP molds.
I've been using Lee and Lyman molds. Is there anything I should know about getting a brass mold ready to cast?

btroj
12-29-2011, 12:21 AM
Yep.

Wash it well.

Get it hot.

Enjoy it.

Simple enough?

GaryN
12-29-2011, 02:21 AM
You may have to run it through a few cycles of heat and cooling to allow the hollowpoint pins to fit. Mine was very tight. After a few cycles it smoothed right up. Also do not tighten the sliding rods to the hollowpoint pins they need a small amount of free play. I snug mine and then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Enjoy. You have one of the best molds made.

rintinglen
12-29-2011, 03:46 AM
You will find that it will want to run hot--much hotter than Iron or Steel molds, but once it is up to temperature, just keep casting. Beautiful boolits fall out one after another. You'll be producing hollow points as fast as you can SWC's. They are wonderful. But do follow the Lube instructions to prevent dammage to your wonderful new acquisition.

dmize
12-29-2011, 05:33 AM
I just recieved my first MiHec mold last week,actually its my first non aluminum mold.
Awesome mold once you convence yourself that YES it really does need to be that hot to cast.
Aint those blocks beautiful tho??

THG
12-29-2011, 01:10 PM
Thanks for the input. I'll get this work of art fired up asap.
I'm just sorry I've missed so many other opportunities.

slide
12-29-2011, 01:19 PM
I wash mine with dawn dishsoap and a toothbrush. Scrub the cavities really good. Don't get any lube in the cavities. All the guys are right on about running them hot. You can tell when you hit the sweet spot. You will probably have to cast faster with this mold to keep it up to temp. I used my 45 - 452 hollowpoint yesterday for the first time. Had a little trouble with the penta pins until I got up to temp. Round pins were no problem,they fell right off. Good luck and remember safety first.

slide
12-29-2011, 01:21 PM
Sorry I forgot. If you have a hotplate,set your mold on it and let it preheat before you start. It will help a bunch. Some guys set their mold on the pot but I am afraid I might knock it off and damage it.

ColColt
12-30-2011, 04:07 PM
A hot plate is a dire necessity for me now. I did it the hard way for years until it was suggested here. The greatest thing since sliced bread for casting.

Lon Chaney-my man. First movie that scared me so bad I left the theater.

cbrick
12-31-2011, 02:04 PM
I just got my first MiHec brass mold, one of his double cavity 40 cal HP molds.
I've been using Lee and Lyman molds. Is there anything I should know about getting a brass mold ready to cast?

Yep, there is. You have really screwed up . . . You will never again be able to settle for anything less than one of Miha's works of art. It will be difficult to even pick up one of the Lee molds after using your new brass mold, the difference in the two is incredible.

Get it clean, I use denatured alchohol and a nylon tooth brush. Pre-heat it on a hot plate and lube with the Bullplate that came with it and enjoy your new, improved outlook on casting.

Rick

btroj
12-31-2011, 02:19 PM
And ibuprofen helps with the soreness in the wrist after a couple hours wrestling one of the 4 cav brass moulds. I love the mould, I love the output, I love the ease of use. I hate the weight.

slide
12-31-2011, 02:58 PM
The Wolfman, my favorite. Scared the **** out of me too!

EDK
12-31-2011, 10:15 PM
Run the mould HOT. Use the bull plate sparingly on the hollow point pin and the two pins that go through the mould.

When the mould is upright to cast, the pins with the c clips are on the left side. Knock off the sprue, invert and open the mould to drop the boolits. IF the pin holds the boolit in the cavity, GENTLY tap the pin to center and the boolit should fall off. (My day job is obviously NOT writing instruction manuals!)

:cbpour::redneck::Fire: