nubee leading- boolit weight ?

[xpshooter]

I have a question regaurding the plain base .44 cal Keith Style bullet shot at 44mag and 445 Supermag speeds with ww296. And I was wondering if I push a 255 gr boolit too fast and start to get leading, would it make sense to get a 300 gr. or heavier boolit to go for the slower velocities it comes with.
Or is leading a size or lube issue?
I notice most of the heavier boolits come with gas checks why is this if they move slower?

[Scrounger]

Leading is a size, lube, velocity (pressure), and barrel property issue. I think there will be different opinions on your last question. I think there are two reasons for that:
1. Likely the heavier bullets were intended for use in cartridges with larger cases, that is the .444 Marlin in the case of the .44 bullets.
2. The heavier bullets may be thought to need gaschecks even when used in the .44 Magnum case because they will generally be loaded to a higher pressure even though the velocity may be lower.
Remember that pressure is the relevant factor, not velocity.

[fourarmed]

Ol' Elmer always said revolver boolits didn't need gas checks, and nobody can say he didn't push them fast enough.

[Dale53]

I have shot tens of thousands of .44 magnum loads with the Lyman 429421 Keith 240-250 gr bullet with NO leading problems. Ditto for .357 magnum loads with a variety of plain base bullets. I, personally, consider it a non-issue.

However, there is pretty good evidence that it is easier for newcomers to get satisfactory results with magnum pistol loads using gas check bullets.

If the bullet is the correct size (sized for the throat) of proper hardness for the speed and a good lube is used (Alox/beeswax NRA formula is good) there should be little problem using a well designed plain base bullet.

Maybe I have just been lucky, but I don't think so. Many revolvers in several calibers show me that plain base works just fine at magnum velocities.

Dale53

[44man]

I agree with Dale. I have shot some awful heavy loads with PB boolits with no leading. Boolit fit, boolit hardness and lube is more important. I still say the gas check is only a harder drive band and helps a softer boolit take the rifling at the higher velocities. Make the boolit harder and you don't need a gas check until you reach the point where even hard lead won't take the rifling.
Shoot revolver boolits in a rifle at the much higher velocities, or exceed the impact of the boolit into the rifling, then a gas check on a harder boolit will prevent stripping and gas cutting.
I have posted many times that if a boolit strips even a little before taking the spin, there is a gap opened where hot gas can get alongside the boolit and cause leading. A gas check will not allow this and will form to the rifling and seal the gap.
I think a hot load of fast powder and a soft boolit would benefit from the gas check in a revolver too because the boolit reaches velocity faster and slams into the rifling causing it to try and go straight and skid. A wider then rifling groove in the boolit is as bad as an undersize boolit.
Whether you need a check depends on the alloy, velocity and boolit fit.

[GP100man]

xpshooterthe faster you go the harder the alloy needed, but remember hard boolits shatter, some pour soft noses then hard driving bands.
personally i dont know if game can tell between 1100 fps& 1400fps, now i know
the faster you start it itll retain speed & power further, how far you gonna shoot ???
i shoot a 310 gr. boolit & it s put 2 holes in everything ive shot,powder is 19 gr.imr4227 dont know how fast it shoots ,but it groups good 7 kiks rite fair!!
GP100man

[Dale53]

I can tell you first hand that deer don't know the difference between 1200 fps or 1300 fps with a 240-250 Keith within any reasonable range (under 100 yards). Since my thing is to get close my longest shot on a deer has been 85 yards... Most have been closer, some MUCH closer.

Dale53