Need help

[725]

Fella's
My friend gave me his P-17 to "fix". He took a chamber insert made for firing .32 acp's in the .30-06 chamber and fired many rounds. Problem developed because he never "ejected" the insert with every round fired. The bolt never pulled the insert out as he cycled the bolt. As a result, he just kept hammering the insert deeper into the chamber with every cycle. I've soaked it with Kroil, made a fixture from two metal rods that when screwed together/side x side, grabs the insert at the rim and attempted to tap it free, tried an EZout --- nothing works.
First - any thought?
Second - Can the P-17 barrel get set back one thread and rechambered?
I'm stuck.

[JMtoolman]

You may have to run a tap into the insert, use an extension with the bolt removed. Find a long bolt with whatever tap size you use and using some washers on the back of the action, pull the insert out by threading the bolt into the insert. Good luck, the toolman.

[nanuk]

can you heat the chamber to "Very Hot to the Hand" with a heat gun, then try the the fixture again?

there can't be much but sprung steel holding it in

[Mk42gunner]

1. Soak in a bucket of Kroil or your other favorite snake oil.

2. I don't think I would set the barrel back, a 1917 barrel slims down pretty quick and there were stories of them blowing when rechambered to one of the "improved" .300 magnums.

There have to be a lot of M1917 surplus barrels, the trick would be finding one at a reasonables cost.

Robert

[El Bango]

I had a customer come in with a 223 Rem with a 22Hornet chamber adaptor that was stuck and I used cerrosafe to remove it.I blocked the bbl about 1" ahead of the chamber,poured the melted cerrosafe into the chamber and set the bbl outside overnight.The next day I used a long pieceof drill rod with rounded end and beat the adaptor out.Just part your hair right in the middle,keep your cool and don't cuss (the gunsmith gods don't like it)

[Frank46]

After tapping the insert get some threaded rod that has been hardened. Screw it into the insert and pot on the rod something similar to a sliding hammerlike you would use to take out dent in your car.add a couple large washers and double nut the ends. Slam the hammer back towards the rear of the action and see what happens. Course your next worry will be what shape your chamber will look like after the insert is out. Could have rust or corrosion. put some flitz on a patch wrapped around a bore brush and stick the other end in a cordless drill. Should clean out any junk you may find. Frank

[uscra112]

If you can find a source for liquid nitrogen, or even dry ice, you might be able to freeze it out. Make a mandrel that fits inside the thing reasonably snug, freeze the mandrel, then quickly insert it, wait a minute it two, and the thing may drop out. Read up on handling liquid nitrogen if you've never done it before - it's dangerous to come in contact with.

[Tokarev]

nanuk +1
I would use a small torch to heat up the chamber to no more than the melting point of soft solder, i.e. to 330-340F
You'd know you've reached the right t when a small piece of solder you've put on the chamber melts.

Heat makes wonders. For instance, I never use forks on the ball joint tapers - just heat up the knuckles with Chinese pencil torch and whack the nut with the hammer once - they drop in 90% cases. Saves me $30 fork rental every time.

[303Guy]

Removing stuck bits can be a booger and after much cussing and head scratching it comes out easy and the cussing starts again! Point being it is actually easy to get it out - in hindsight!

Try cleaning and drying the insert so a case (or something more substantial can be glued into it with a compound that breaks down with heat (low temperature high strength Loc-Tite) then knock it from the muzzle. You can apply heat to the Knox form while tapping to help loosen it (requires an assistant). If you stick a blob of solder on the Knox form you can heat it until the solder melts but if heated too slowly the compound will break down first!

Good luck. :drinks:

[canyon-ghost]

The reason it gets stuck so tightly is because carbon and metal-to-metal contact eliminate any opening for Kroil or solvent to enter.
Maybe vibration could knock it loose, a dowel through the bore, and lots of small taps with a light hammer? I've removed brass from head seperations with old cleaning rods but, you might need something stouter than an aluminum rod.
Just a thought.
Ron

[MtGun44]

thread the insert, screw in a bolt, drop in a steel rod and drive out from the front.

Bill

[725]

Got it out. Tapped the insert and used a steel rod from the muzzle to tap it out. Had the barrel/action dismounted from the stock and heated it up. Was concerned the tap would score the chamber, but it didn't. Whew---glad this one is done.

[Frank46]

yea!!!!!!!!!!!. Glad to hear you got it out and the insert is no longer usable. Now that is one job you won't have to worry about coming back. Frank

[nanuk]

so, WHY was it stuck to bad?

corrosion in the chamber?

or just CRUD locking it in?

[paul h]

Given the taper of the insert, and the taper of the chamber, every time the sub caliber round was fired the firing pin was driving that insert into the chamber. I forget the magic number, but somewhere around less than 7 degrees taper between a shaft and socket and it will hold in place, think of a morris taper drill bit or chuck mandrel being held by a drill press. A 30-06 body taper is very gradual, hence quite easy to drive something into that chamber and stick. Military actions firing pins hit harder than sporting rifles, so it was only a matter of time before the chamber adapter got stuck.

[725]

nanuk
He fired a ton of pistol ammo in it before he realized it was supposed to come out with each firing. Beautiful clean and smooth chamber. It was just pounded in there.

[swheeler]

What's a P17?:)

[Mk42gunner]

What's a P17?:)

Slang term for a U.S. Model of 1917 Rifle. Generally used because the rifle evovled from the British Pattern 13 and 14 rifles.

Robert