Thoroughly Buggered Scope mount holes in Turk Mauser

[Milsurp Junkie]

I just picked up a sporterized Turk Ankara 1938 (actually a GEWR 98) in 8mm Mauser for $100. The bolt is turned down and the action is smooth. All of the numbers match, with the exception of the floor plate.

The problem is whoever had it prior to me looks like they used a hand drill to place the scope mounts. :groner:

I also want to know the best way (if possible) to fix the holes and redrill/tap a proper mount. Tig welding and dress it down?

I plan on scoping it, and using a bake on lacquer. If doing that, I could use JB weld and a one piece scope mount.

[Reg]

As long as it is the rear ring only ( NOT the front ) you can build up , file smooth and re- drill and tap. Use a low carbon filler rod.

:coffeecom

[Red River Rick]

FWIW, grind off the charger bridge to match the existing contour of the rear portion of the reciever. Then drill and tap new holes just forward of the buggered ones.

RRR

[Milsurp Junkie]

Unfortunately they did the front ring almost as bad.

[LIMPINGJ]

Bubba and his hand drill for sure.

[Milsurp Junkie]

What would you recommend for the front? The very front screw hole stopped at the barrel threads and luckily did not drill into the barrel's chamber.

[Johnk454]

Oh, that hurts to look at...

A good hand with a TIG welder can fix that, but you should have it re-heat treated afterwards.

I bought a M52 Winchester that someone had started to sporterize. The holes on the front of the reciever were ok, but they weren't aligned with the bore. TIG'd them up and dressed it down.

http://home.comcast.net/~johnk454/pics/M52TIG1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~johnk454/pics/M52TIG2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~johnk454/pics/M52TIG3.jpg

[John Taylor]

For the rear holes moving them forward would be the least expensive. Myself, I would weld them up with a tig torch using 4130 rod. I do it quite often on rear bridge of pre war model 70 Winchesters. On the chamber end I would plug the holes that line up with 1/4"X28 grade 8 bolt and redrill. The other two holes you can plug with screws and dress it down. Use Loctite on the plugs to keep them from moving. I have seen more than a few come into the shop looking just like yours.

[John Taylor]

[QUOTE=Johnk454;1494358]Oh, that hurts to look at...

A good hand with a TIG welder can fix that, but you should have it re-heat treated afterwards.

I bought a M52 Winchester that someone had started to sporterize. The holes on the front of the reciever were ok, but they weren't aligned with the bore. TIG'd them up and dressed it down.


Nice work but there is not an issue with strength on a model 52. I try to keep heat away from the locking lugs on any gun that runs high pressure.

[Milsurp Junkie]

Looks like I have a winter project. Anyone have a short chambered mauser barrel? It seems that Numrich is out of all the ones that I would want to use (35 Whelen, 308, 30-06, etc).
Jonathan

[Milsurp Junkie]

So Tig the rear, remove the charging hump and re-drill/tap for a one piece scope mount.

The front will have to plug the holes that line up with 1/4"X28 grade 8 bolt and redrill. The other two holes you can plug with screws and dress it down.

[Johnk454]

[QUOTE=Johnk454;1494358]Oh, that hurts to look at...

A good hand with a TIG welder can fix that, but you should have it re-heat treated afterwards.

I bought a M52 Winchester that someone had started to sporterize. The holes on the front of the reciever were ok, but they weren't aligned with the bore. TIG'd them up and dressed it down.


Nice work but there is not an issue with strength on a model 52. I try to keep heat away from the locking lugs on any gun that runs high pressure.

Agreed, that is why I mentioned re-heat treating if the OP goes the welding route on the front ring. I didn't re-heat treat the 52.

[GerryM]

It looks like you have enough room to move the blocks forward a bit and redrill and tap.
If you do you can fill those holes with scope block screws and lock tite them in. after that you can grind or file the screws flush. that should hide those ugly holes.

[Reg]

You might have a problem. That rear ( front ring ) hole looks like it might have a broken tap on the rear side of it. Have seen that happen before and it caused the re-drill attempt to skid off to the front. You might want to get out a sharp scribe and pick around a little bit.
If in fact thats what is in that hole then for sure you DO NOT want to just fill the holes with metal The new metal will combine with that broken tap and you will not only have a receiver that you cannot drill and tap ( only after re- heat treat ) because of the brittle inclusion but you will have a receiver that has a built in fracture point. If you go the welding shut and working back smooth route do made darned sure there are no bits and pieces of any broken drills or taps left in the holes before you begin. Also , if you decide to weld em shut, you are going to have to remove the barrel and this alone might tell you a lot.
You could just enlarge the buggered holes with a 1/4"x28 drill and tap but then again, after you move things around and over you have a solid line of swiss cheese on the top center of that receiver ring. That also is not conducive of maximum strength.
Approach this one carefully.

:shock:

[Milsurp Junkie]

Reg,
Are you referring to this hole? I will see what I can do with a dental pick or scribe later this evening.

[Milsurp Junkie]

Assuming that I can remove the broken tap (if that is what it is). Do you think that this action would be safe to rebarrel to 260 remington (high pressure), or should I play it safe w/ 6.5 x 55 Swedish (low pressure)?

[John Taylor]

So Tig the rear, remove the charging hump and re-drill/tap for a one piece scope mount.

The front will have to plug the holes that line up with 1/4"X28 grade 8 bolt and redrill. The other two holes you can plug with screws and dress it down.

That what I was thinking.

I take out broken taps in the mill with a special ground carbide bit.
I think I would stay with the lower pressure round on this action.

[Brithunter]

Another option would be to use blocks and sweat themon to the receiver that would make it look like a double square bridge Mauser :-

http://www.sabirifles.co.za/actions.htm#Sporting_Mauser_Model_98_with_Double_S quare_Bridge

Now excuse the fancy rife but is what google found for me. Hi Force 44 solder would do nicely I believe but check with a proper gunsmith on that. You could try these folks in Alaska who make thses gunsmith bases so that another make of rifle can use their high quality Q/R lever operated rings designed to fit the Brno ZKK and CZ550 receivers:-

http://www.alaskaarmsllc.com/

A pair of those contoured tot eh action top and sweated into place would look sweet and work a treat.

Oh yes as the 8x57 is not a low pressure cartridge the Obendorf made action should be fine in 260 rem although why anyone would want to handicap a nice action like that is beyond me. .257 Roberts or 7x57 (aka .275 Rigby Hi Velocity) would suit it much better IMHO :bigsmyl2:.