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tbierley
12-04-2011, 08:19 AM
I am needing to know if I can use zinc tire weights in the place of Maganese Dioxide. or can I use iron shavings to change the color of the PARKERIZING.

darkroommike
12-04-2011, 10:13 AM
If you are just starting out why not just buy a pre-mixed jug of whatever Parkerizing solution you need. Makes more sense to me than trying to mix your own. Results are sure to be more consistent, too.

Here's a link to a tutorial I found (Google is your friend):

http://www.projectguns.com/parkerizing.html

seagiant
12-04-2011, 04:26 PM
Hi,
Well...from my experience parkerizing,no and no. DRM gave some good advice there. I would reccomend Brownell's Manganese solution,if you can follow directions it's pretty easy and you will get a nice finish if you do what they say in the excellent instruction! Here is a pic of an Austrian STG-58 I built on an Imbel reciever.

DCM
12-06-2011, 09:20 PM
A good park. thread. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=123879

Mohillbilly
12-08-2011, 11:10 PM
Yes Parker/Amchem has more than one type of parkerizing. The original formula used on old mil stuff is a zinc phospate (grey) newer is black manganize dioxide (black er) .

EMC45
12-09-2011, 02:27 PM
Zinc Phosphate will make it light grey. Manganese will make it green/dark grey/black.

TCLouis
12-09-2011, 09:23 PM
Are the different colors with the manganese based solution based on the steel in the gun?

I want dark gray to black.

EMC45
12-10-2011, 11:00 AM
I would go with the manganese then. Brownells also sells a "blackening agent" too. I think you apply it after the initial parkerizing bath.

Mohillbilly
12-20-2011, 11:08 PM
Fresh baths of zinc phosphate needs to be passavated I think that OOOO steel wool that has been deoiled works well. After a 20 -30 min parts boil , take the parts out of the bath and dip in boiling water and to get that ARMY look , put the parts while still hot into a bucket of cosmo . Looks like WW II stuff .