Has anyone converted a Lyman trimmer

[gcollins]

Okay Fella's,
I am going to start this off right this time! I am asking if anyone has motorized there Lyman Universal case trimmer, I asking this because I am looking for ADVICE on how they did it? I am not trying to cut anyone out of any money for there design ect. the last time I ask how to power my Dillon some folks got upset for nothing::shock:
To those with a Lyman Uni. trimmer have you powered it other than buying the motorized kit from Lyman??Midway has the new shaft to be used if powered up, it is $20.00 plus the ride, as bad as I hate to, I believe I will grind the spot weld that holds the handle on and then put a electric drill on the end, I really would like to think of a better way???????? Something that you can leave running with a in and out lever to apply pressure and change out case's. Anyone done this?
I would be very great full for any info.
No I have not got my Dillon auto ed[smilie=p:
Greg

[Mk42gunner]

I used the Lyman adapter kit. Looking at my manual shaft, it would be fairly easy to cut the crank handle off and grind it down for a 3/8 or 1/4 inch drill to power it.

The Lyman shaft has a hex shape for the drill chuck to attach, you could also use a socket to drive it, I suppose. The new shaft comes with a new cutter head, too.

After using a drill to power mine, I am never going to use the hand crank again.

Call me crazy, but I don't want to be messing around with my bare fingers near a spinning cutter. I know the chance of getting into it is slim, but I relly don't want to be known as Stubby.

I do have a Forster trimmer that I can unscrew the handle and use a dril on, but I only have one pilot for it. I found my Lyman on sale for about what the pilots for the forster would have cost.

Robert

[beagle]

I have a really old one and as I recall, there were two setscrews holding the handle on to the shaft. After removal, the handle slipped off and my drill could be attached.

I may have an older unit though. I know I have made a bunch of .458 X 2" cases by cutting down .300 Win Mags and 7mm Mags that had been lopped off with a tubing cutter and the chips really flew./beagle

[contender1]

My Lyman was a handcrank type,,, UNTIL I bought the Lyman power adaptor. I'll NEVER use the hand crank again. ANd I feel it was money well spent.

[milprileb]

I got the power shaft which is easy to install. I wanted to keep the handle crank
shaft for times I am doing some real close trimming chores.

I find the variances of cuts using power shaft to be unsat. COAL is never consistent.
Its a bit better hand cranking the shaft but still its not very precise.

Some will say thats not an issue if its above min. trim lenght and below max lenght
and that may be but the fact of the matter is..... I expect more precision and consistency
and the Lyman unit does not do it. I am not a happy customer !

Then the tedious and slow Lee trimmer cuts every case precisely to same lenght.

I don't know why there is not a lath type trimmer that uses the STOP Guide system of
spindles like on the Lee unit. Seems pretty effective and simple to me.

[Keith Sacane]

Among my many hobbies, I also like archery, and I saw a plan the other day to make a homemade arrow crester with a sewing machine motor, including the pedal. Do you think it might be possible to convert a sewing machine motor with a pedal? It might speed up the process. The motors can usually be found with pedals fairly cheaply.

[jmorris]

If the handle is right hand threaded you could do the samething I did and adapt a power window motor to it.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/DSC02163.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/DSC02033.jpg

[dragonrider]

I use a cordless drill. Pull the handle off the trimmer and chuck he drill on the shaft.

Jmorris, a very clever idea.

[ronbo]

I have the Lyman trimmer that comes already motorized. Bought it on clearance for $60 quite a few years ago at Gander Mtn.

[Roger Ronas]

Hello jmorris,
That looks like a Forster trimmer like mine. So my questions are:
1. Do you have a link to a window motor that works, thread wise or did you build an adapter between motor and trimmer?
2. I assume 12vdc power, did you use a battery or an adapter (wall wart transformer) to power motor.
3. Switch?

Thanks
Roger






If the handle is right hand threaded you could do the samething I did and adapt a power window motor to it.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/DSC02163.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/DSC02033.jpg

[high standard 40]

For those with a Forster trimmer, they catalog an adapter that screws onto the shaft in the place of the crank handle and you can then use a cordless drill on it. Using this adapter prevents damage to the treads by chucking the drill directly on the shaft threads.

I have one of the adapters for my Forster trimmer and it sure comes in handy when forming 30 Herrett brass.

[milprileb]

To beat a dead horse further with a 2x4: I decided to patiently take my Lyman trimmer and hand crank trim brass after I carefully got it adjusted to trim brass to correct lenght. Then, I did 20 cases and the variances of lenghts was not consistent. I was very careful to monitor feel and sound of trimmer as it did the trimming.

The manner of the shaft locking to hold a consistent cut lenght is impossible IMHO with the Lyman. Glad I own two as I thought the chuck holder was a jewel and it would be ideal for the boys bench and mine. Now we own two paper weights.

The variances with power shaft installed are even worse.

My nose is so out of joint on this !

[jmorris]

Hello jmorris,

That looks like a Forster trimmer like mine. So my questions are:

1. Do you have a link to a window motor that works, thread wise or did you build an adapter between motor and trimmer?

2. I assume 12vdc power, did you use a battery or an adapter (wall wart transformer) to power motor.

3. Switch?

Any gear style window motor would be fine, a lot of the newer cable type motors don't have metal you can tacweld to (all plastic). I threaded the steel adaptor for the shaft and so it would slip over the motor shaft and run true.

I have used it both with a deer feeder batt and an auto "jump box", just hook it up and go.

[Wally]

To beat a dead horse further with a 2x4: I decided to patiently take my Lyman trimmer and hand crank trim brass after I carefully got it adjusted to trim brass to correct lenght. Then, I did 20 cases and the variances of lenghts was not consistent. I was very careful to monitor feel and sound of trimmer as it did the trimming.

The manner of the shaft locking to hold a consistent cut lenght is impossible IMHO with the Lyman. Glad I own two as I thought the chuck holder was a jewel and it would be ideal for the boys bench and mine. Now we own two paper weights.

The variances with power shaft installed are even worse.

My nose is so out of joint on this !

I have had similiar experiences. I now use a Lee universal chuck and their trimmer/pilot with the cutter on their hardwood "ball" handle...I get consistently trimmed cases and one can use a chamfer tool with it.

[woody1]

I've posted a photo of my motorized RCBS case trimmer several times, usually somewhat tongue-in-cheek. However it DOES work and I don't see why a similar setup wouldn't work for the Lyman. I have a much larger motor than necessary but I had it and the pulleys. I have a sewing machine foot feed to start and stop the motor. Take a good look at it and I think one can see how it's set up. The last post showing a photo is here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=133685&highlight=trimmer&page=2

There's nothin' automatic about it. You still have to fit the brass in the collet and push the cutter by hand which also slightly tightens the pulley belt, touch the foot feed and you're done. There's a spinner handle on the outside of the drive pully that just spins in your hand as you're pushing the cutter into the case. If everything is lined up right, letting go of the drive shaft allows the pulley belt to align with the motor pulley which withdraws the cutter from the brass and lets you begin taking the case out before the motor stops turning. Like I said, it's a little like putting a big block Chevy in a beetle, but it does take the metal off.

Regards, Woody

[gcollins]

Woody! That is a killer case trimmer!!
G

[woody1]

Yeah, I put it together when I had some serious trimming to do. I think I was building 308's out of 30-06 brass. Regards, Woody

[zomby woof]

I removed the crank handle tied a drill to an old slider rail.

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g360/zombywoof47/image002.jpg

[Mk42gunner]

I like your slider rail; it beats letting the drill hang off the end of the shaft like I am doing now.

Robert

[gcollins]

Zomby, That was exactly what I was going to do. But I also wanted to keep a shaft with a crank handle to do small jobs! I am thinking about removing my crank and taking the shaft over to the mill and put a flat on the end and then do the female part on the crank handle so I do do both. I bought a awesome OLD Redding case trimmer and if I can modify it to do my job with out destroying it. When I first looked at it I thought to myself how easy it would be to make a neck turning lathe out of it. As soon as I get it I will post a pic.
Later
Greg

[Brassman29]

186413All right... this morning I came here to see what was being done for a case trimmer motor for my Lyman "hand crank". All were helpful, but not what I needed. So, after buying the drill I wanted to use, I set about machining a coupler to weld to the handle. The results are shown in the picture (insert). I can still use the handle though it is now restricted to the space between it and the coupler and requires holding it clear of the coupler (I don't see using it this way as the motor works in very fine control. Most importantly I need to CONCUR with those who see no value in the length adjustment collars as they will simply not hold adjustment. My solution (worked out when I put this in service) are also shown. I machined spacers for each of the case lengths of various calibers I load and they provide rock solid space lengths. The Lyman collars are set tight to each other and give no adjustment... they simply interface the bushing to their left. I know these solutions are not for everyone as TIG welding and a lathe are required, but it is the only way this type trimmer will work (IMHO). I used a rest for the far end of the drill, but only use it as a holder when the rig is not actively in use. My handle is the type that is pressed on and has spline for the transfer of motion to the shaft. I believe Lyman used this engineering so that it is not easy to bolt on an adaptor (hence the welding). So feel free to E-me with questions or if the picture is not suitable size for clarity. John- "brassman29" at Jbcarey@sbcglobal.net.

[mf79]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vz3HosnAJus
made wood adapter with drill press and router

[ascast]

I did my Forster much like this. The handle screws off;replaced by nuts which fit a 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch flex shaft to drill. The drill is rigid mounted with hose clap,s and the trimer move in and out. Trimmer is mounted on a peice of 2x4. This fit over another 2x4 which has "sides" attached. It makes a trough in which the trimmer can move but stay in line with power drill. I wish I had a foot switch on the drill.

[country gent]

I have set up lymans rcbs wilsons to run in a bench top drill press. Makes trimming a lot easier and a little faster. The longest part is changing cases not cutting.

Youll need some glue wood dowel 1 X 4 hard wood and some screws. Make an angle plate for your dill press out of the 1 x 4. 4-5" for the base and tie top long enough to get the screws in at the top. Glue and dowel this to start, making it as square as possible. Aster its cured with a table saw just dust the base in then the upright on a table saw. add 1 or 2 braces depending on trimmer and screw placement. Add wood screws when glue has cured good. You can now xhck you cutter shaft in the chuck and then clamp the base t the drill press table and run it in the press.The lyman is the easier one for this as nothing is behind the back end with the universal head.

Materials needed
1X4 hardwood maple oak walnut
1/4" wood dowel oak works well
wood screws flat head 6 x 1 1/2" or 2" are fine
wood glue tite bond 3 gorilla glue. You need a good solid bond here.

Tools required.
Drill press
table saw or radial arm saw
1/4" drill bit
Small pilot drill for wood screws
C clamps or bar clamps
Small wood chisel for cleaning up glue over runs.
sand paper.

Once assembled sand and finish nicely with polyurethane or tru oil.

[Conditor22]

https://i.imgur.com/I0rPXvQ.jpg

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I removed the trimmer shaft from my old Pacific trimmer and chucked it in the small drill press that I have. I adjusted the drill stop and it worked like a charm. I have to watch the overall length of the hulls closely because the drill stop is not very sturdy.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Three44s]

I built a power drive adapter for my Wilson trimmers. The end of the cutter shaft on those is 7/16” x 20 TIP (NF). I found a “high nut” that gave enough thread depth to allow attaching the nut to the cutter shaft but also hook an improvised bolt in the other end and turn it down on a lathe so a cordless drill can chuck up on that end.

I still have to hold the drill up to reduce run out on the cutter shaft.

You want to keep lube on these trimmers because the cutter shaft gets lots of miles on it when you add power.

I have a Lyman base and universal shell holder made by Lyman expressly for using a drill press. My issue with it is that my drill presses are not accurate enough in the depth stops to do accurate case length as it is supplied.

Three44s