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fatelk
11-27-2011, 11:22 PM
My trouble may be a non-problem, thought I'd see if it was a common issue.

I've loaded a lot of rounds on my old RockChucker over the years, and just somewhat recently came across a Dillon 550.

The Dillon works great except for one thing that bugs me. I tend to be a rather particular reloader and one of the things I watch is that the primers are seated ever-so-slightly below flush. The only way I can seem to do this consistently on the Dillon is by using a serious amount of force on the handle. I can't see that anything is adjusted wrong, looks like just a leverage thing. I'm tempted to reprime separately with my trusty RCBS hand tool, but that kind of defeats the purpose of the progressive machine.

Any ideas? Is this common?

John Boy
11-27-2011, 11:42 PM
Here is the link to the manual for the Dillon 550B... http://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf
You may want to read it completely, make sure the parts are clean and have the proper height, especially the shell holder and primer assembly. Specifically all are clean for the primer spring - cup and plunger and the proper height is correct
Pages 5 and 9 show details for the primer assembly

I clean the 550B a couple of times a year and when I run my finger over the rounds in the box - the primers are seated properly just below the base of the rim

rmcc
11-27-2011, 11:54 PM
Fatelk,

AS JB said, clean is a big plus!! I have talked to the Dillon boys several times on this issue and here is the basic spiel from them:

1) top of cup to be 1 .125" from top of bar ( sometimes works better at 1.0625")

2) loosen both set screws on bottom of primer feed, lower ram and make sure cup is centered in the hole in the plate, then tighten set screws again. (watch the end of the return spring, it can make you bleed). Work ram up and down, full strokes, to make sure that primer arm returns to center after picking up primer. If it is not it will either flip the primer or you will feel resistance as the spring is trying to compress unevenly. This is the major cause of primer problems on my 550. Funny thing is, it never does it with the large primers only the small??

3) Clean primer arm and frame with acetone, gets rid of an amazing amount of powder/priming dust.

Hope this helps. If not:
Dillon= 1 800 223 4570

They are GREAT to work with.

Rich

Springfield
11-27-2011, 11:54 PM
I have 2 550's, and it does take a bit of pressure to seat properly.

Dan Cash
11-28-2011, 01:01 AM
The leverage required with the Dillon is the same as for the Rock Chucker. John Boy has provided you the proper information for successful operation of your Dillon.

7of7
11-28-2011, 01:22 AM
I use the RCBS hand priming tool... for all of my rifle cartridges.. and just do the loading on the 550B.. I size and trim my bottleneck cases.. (haven't gotten the RCBS X-Sizer die yet) so I am doing it in a few different steps..
All my other straightwall cases, are done completely on the 550B.. It does take a bit of pressure.. and it does take some getting used to in order to get the consistancy..

LUBEDUDE
11-28-2011, 01:51 AM
Sometimes the 550s are not without their quirks. I have no problems with 45 acp, 44s, 45-70 and small primed cases, but 45 Colt is another story. It takes all the energy I have to get an acceptable primer. After 50 rounds my hand is sore. Dillon could not fiqure it out.

Maybe it's the nut behind the lever.

Kevin Rohrer
11-28-2011, 10:09 AM
I have not noticed an unusual amount of pressure required. The felt pressure was a bit less when I moved from the ball to the roller arm, although I will say that I may sometimes lean into the arm when priming.

fatelk
11-28-2011, 10:42 AM
Thanks everyone. I'll read up and check it out thoroughly after work tonight. I'm loading .40S&W and have to lean into the handle with all I have until my arm hurts on some of them. It's mixed brass and I've noticed that some brass is worse than others.

I haven't primed with the priming arm on the Rock Chucker for many years. I think I may have even thrown the priming arm away. The hand tool just seemed light years better.

Old Caster
11-28-2011, 10:59 AM
I have a problem priming Aguila brass in 45 and 38. If it was all Aguila it would be all right but when you get used to a certain amount of push and all of a sudden it requires more I get a primer not all the way in and the Dillon won't advance because the primer scrapes on the bottom. I could swage the primer pocket but I still had to pick them out one at a time. I spent several hours and took out all the Aguila and now seldom have a problem. I'll have to watch more carefully what I pick up at the range.

dillonhelp
11-28-2011, 11:44 AM
A couple of additional things to check: Be sure the two tiny bolts that secure the roller bracket assembly to the underside of the platform are both tight. If the left one is loose, it contacts the top of the primer slide and acts as a stop.
Next, push down on the edge of the shellplate between stations 2 and 3. If it feels springy, then tighten the shellplate bolt a bit more.
On 40 S&W, be aware that there is now some brass with crimped primer pockets. The US Coast Guard is using 40 S&W, and at least some Federal and perhaps other brands are appearing with crimped primer pockets.

kelbro
11-28-2011, 11:57 AM
I have two 550s and even set up by Dillon (I work about 1 1/2 miles from there) they do not seat primers to the depth that I had grown accustomed to using RCBS hand primers. No misfires or anything. None protruding. Just not as deep as I like.

wcp4570
11-28-2011, 12:31 PM
fatelk
Brian Enos has a forum that has allot of info in the reloading section. Here is the link to the 550 FAQs that may be some help if you have not found your answer yet. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5335&pid=1253812&st=50&#entry1253812

wcp

fatelk
11-28-2011, 04:19 PM
Wow, now that's customer service! Thanks Dillonhelp.

I did run in to a few crimped ones, Federal NT I think. After one crushed primer I started sorting all the crimped ones out. I also sorted out foreign brass (S&B, PMC, anything less suitable for cast).

I'll take it apart tonight and clean and check everything. I have to say that other than the primer seating issue it works like a million dollars. A friend had one years back that we had trouble with primer feeding, but this one works flawlessly in that regard.

Thanks again everyone for all the tips. I'll report back after I've checked everything.

TGM
11-28-2011, 06:57 PM
I was having a problem getting all the primers to seat properlyto the correct depth. I overcame this problem by raising my reloading bench 2 in. to get better leverage on the handle.

TGM

fatelk
11-29-2011, 02:26 AM
I think I got it. I just loaded 100 rounds with no high primers.

I took everything apart and cleaned it (dirty!). I carefully adjusted things to spec. Those things seemed to help a bit, but I think the biggest problem was technique. I mounted the press a little higher and use firm pressure with both hands to seat primers; works great!

Thank you to all for all the ideas!

wrench man
11-29-2011, 03:13 AM
I've never used a hand primer, with the force required to seat them on my 550 I can't imagine how they get enough force out of the tiny handles on the hand primers to seat them?

Johnk454
11-29-2011, 09:24 AM
It shouldn't take much force.

One more thing to check - make sure the arm isn't touching the loaded round chute on the priming stroke. Since it and the 550 itself mount separately, it isn't uncommon to see interference.

Gar
11-29-2011, 10:20 AM
In addition to getting the Dillon setup correctly, case prep is important.

As I pick up quite a bit of range brass, the first thing I do after cleaning the brass for the first time is to trim to length and swage all of the primer pockets.

This helps identify the oddball primer sizes (45 ACP large/small primer pockets, etc.), gets rid of any crimped pockets and the occasional berdan primed case is usually detected and of course, cleans the crud out of the primer pockets.