Need Help in Taking Apart a Pedersoli Gibbs muzzleloader

[jeep]

Just got a new Gibbs the other day... I decided to take the action apart to make sure nothing had been overlooked by the factory. Have 2 areas of concern:
1. There's a screw on the breach plug opposite side of the nipple that I tried to remove, and it refuses to budge. Am using gunsmith's screwdrivers...still won't budge. Is it acceptable to remove this screw, or is it meant to stay in permanently? if the screw stays in there, can i still properly clean the gun? If the screw must be removed, is it acceptable to pour penetrating oil down into the muzzle and let it sit working from the inside out to loosen the threads? Will this oil if left in too long have an effect on the breach plug threads?
2. i have a question about how to remove the trigger guard--I undid the one screw that goes thru the trigger guard into the pistol grip. do you pry up to get the trigger guard out of the wood pistol grip? how does the trigger guard detach from the trigger plate?

[725]

I'm not familiar with your gun but, the use of Kroil, PB Blaster, or some other good penetrating oil is perfectly fine. Soak the tight part for awhile in Kroil and chances are it will loosen up. As an aside, when I clean my ML's, I finish up with a good dose of Kroil down the muzzle to sit against threaded breach plug. Evil corrosion can start in the treaded area and just work away down there where you can't see it or clean it. I figure the penetrating oil can chase the threads and stop/slow down the problem. Good luck.

[DIRT Farmer]

Post to 451 pete. He has been on the M/L forum. He is the one I go to for questions on mine.

[calaloo]

I believe that screw on the side opposite the nipple was put there for drilling the fire channel on the other side. I would not remove it. I seem to recall that the Gibbs has some odd dissembly steps. Go to this site for all your answers on all things long range muzzle loader.

http://www.researchpress.co.uk/

You will probably find the answers to your questions by using the search feature.

[fixit]

i would advise against disassembly! if built in the standard fashion of the "express" rifles of yesteryear, this rifle has what is known as a "nock" breech (i don't think i spelled that right, but the pronunciation is the same). if this the case, then there is a very detailed method for disassembly, and i would recommend leaving it to a qualified gunsmith!

[mazo kid]

Just got a new Gibbs the other day... I decided to take the action apart to make sure nothing had been overlooked by the factory. Have 2 areas of concern:
1. There's a screw on the breach plug opposite side of the nipple that I tried to remove, and it refuses to budge. Am using gunsmith's screwdrivers...still won't budge. Is it acceptable to remove this screw, or is it meant to stay in permanently? if the screw stays in there, can i still properly clean the gun? If the screw must be removed, is it acceptable to pour penetrating oil down into the muzzle and let it sit working from the inside out to loosen the threads? Will this oil if left in too long have an effect on the breach plug threads?
2. i have a question about how to remove the trigger guard--I undid the one screw that goes thru the trigger guard into the pistol grip. do you pry up to get the trigger guard out of the wood pistol grip? how does the trigger guard detach from the trigger plate?
1) It would appear that the breech plug screw should remain in place. Use a small bore brush to clean the Knock breech.
2) From the exploded view, it looks like the trigger guard is attached to the trigger plate by the sling screw. I don't see this as needing to come off either, unless you want to make sure every thing is free of shipping "gunk".
http://www.marstar.ca/forms/Spare-parts-digest.pdf
Scroll down to page 89 for the Gibbs parts diagram.

[gmkmd]

To remove the tang and trigger guard from the Pedersoli Gibbs target rifle-
The tang is held in place by three screws; the obvious tang screw from above, the sling swivel stud from below, and a hidden screw from below that goes through the trigger plate (hidden by the trigger guard).
The trigger guard is attached to the trigger plate thusly:
The front end of the trigger guard has a threaded stud attached to it, which screws into the trigger plate, just behind the sling swivel stud. Therefore you have to rotate the whole trigger guard to unscrew it. In order to be able to do this, you first have to release the rear end (or tang) of the trigger guard. This is held in place with one wood screw, but this area is inletted into the wood and under very tight spring tension at its tip. So even after you've removed the screw, it can be very difficult to release that rear end of the trigger guard. You could simply pry it up with a big screwdriver (and probably will out of frustration), but this mars the expertly inletted wood around the trigger guard. I managed to do it by wedging a narrow shim under the trigger guard tang as I exerted some carefully directed tugging, and using the shim as a bearing surface for the screwdriver to pry it out. Once it clears the wood it "springs out", and reveals the hidden screw so you can finally get the tang out. When you reassemble it, it snaps back in, and becomes apparent why it was so hard to remove.
Why, you ask, would anyone ever want to do this? For me, it was so I could repair a damaged sight mounting screw hole in the tang. Which was easier to do with the tang removed from the gun.

[oldracer]

As noted by gmkmd that is how to remove the trigger guard. As for the barrel and it's associated components the small screw was there to facilitate the creation of the breech plug part of the rifle which is a "patent breach" design for better powder ignition. I would suggest not removing the screw and also never trying to remove the breach plug, no need to. If you are worried about dirt, metal, ETC in the breech are then you can do as I do and use a small patch holder and soak it in 3 part cleaner and let it fall to the bottom of the bore, Should be a clink or thump or other metallic noise to tell you things are pretty clear, I turn the patch several times and them pull to see what is there. These are world class muzzle loaders capable of winning world championships in 1000 yard matches.


I use Pedersoli's bullet mold as it is the only cast bullet I have been able to get to work and also as they recommend NO wad on top of the powder column!
John