Lyman Muzzleloader

[hawk223]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone knows anything about the Lyman flintlocks? Are they good bad or indifferent. What other makes are there that are affordable and decent quality?

For a 50 cal what size should be cast and do you have to size them? What about lube and patches etc. I assume they can't be grove size otherwise they would be hard to push in.

I have never used a black powder gun before but really think it will be fun. Any information you have to share would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[twotoescharlie]

I have a lyman GPR left hand flintlock and it works very well. the only thing that I changed was to put a "white lightning" vent liner in it. it is now as fast as a caplock.


TTC

[ktw]

The Lymans are probably the best bang for the buck with respect to an entry level traditional muzzleoader. Midsouth (http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com) has significantly better prices on them than most everyone else.

The next step up in price would be a TC Hawken. Marginally better lock.

The biggest "problem" with either one is that the hardcore traditional crowd don't look on either one as a particularly accurate reproduction of a historical rifle. They consider the Lyman Great Plains to be less of a sharp stick in the eye than the TC if that matters to you.

Next steps up in price would be Pedersoli; not better quality than a TC but wider selection of styles to choose from.

Next step up from that would be a semicustom from somene like TVM (http://www.avsia.com/tvm/ , $800-$1000 and a 12 month wait) or building one yourself from a good set of parts ($500-700 plus your time).

If you are new to traditional muzzleloading I think the Lyman is a good place to start. Track of the Wolf (http://www.trackofthewolf.com) isn't the cheapest place to buy but they have a good website with great pcitures. It's a good place to get a feel for the different styles and some idea of what the mid to high end of the muzzeloader market looks like. It's easy to justify spending $375 on a lyman after you spend some time oggling the custom guns at custom prices.

Your choice of ball size in a 50 caliber is either .490 or .495. It's been my experience that the lyman guns tend to prefer the larger .495 ball. Use whatever patch size loads and shoots best in your gun. No sizing.

-ktw

[mooman76]

Hawk223

If you have never shot a muzzle loader before you might want to get with someone that has and shoot it before investing money in it. I am in no way trying to discourage you but allot of people get muzzel loaders and don't like them and only shoot them a few times and quit. Especially true the flintlock is a little more difficult to shoot than a caplock and is better for a experienced muzzle loader. I have known people that could not stand the flash in their face and could never get past that part.

That being said I own about 10 muzzle loaders 2 being flintlock. I have not shot them in awhile but plan to soon. I miss shooting them and their basic simplicity. Lyman makes a very good muzzel loader. I can't speak for their flint lock but if I was in the market for one I would not hesitate to get one from Lyman.
if you are going with roundball I would get a .490 for 50 and you can use different size patches to make up the differance. If you want to shoot bullets you can go with the minie or a maxie. The minie is hollow based and slightly smaller than the boar so it slides in easy. That's what I would recommend in a bullet. You also could get the maxie which has to be forced in because it is slightly larger like the Lee REAL bullet. Last is the Sabot which is a plastic similar to a shotgun wad with a bullet that goes in the center. You need a tight twist for this one to shoot good but since you are going the old way of flint lock I am assuming you won't want this one. if you get a barel with a 1-48" twist it should shoot both roundball and bullets good. You should also get a Muzzel loader book and read about it before investing allot.

On the bullet moulds just get the 50 cal. ones but I would start with roundball first.

Once again I didn't mean in any way to discourage you and hope you find you like muzzle loading and take up the sport!

[NickSS]

I have a lot of experience with ML rifles and own about 20 of them that I have acquired over the years. Lyman makes good rifles and I have had or have several of them. They also make their rifles with varying rifling twists. Their hunter model comes in a 1 in 48 twist and shoots both round ball and elongated balls well. They make their GPR in both a 1 in 60 twist and a 1in 30 twist. The 1 in 30 is for elongated bullets and sabats. the 1 in 60 is best with round balls. Though it will stabilize short bullets like a ballet or lee REAL bullet. If you are new a flintlock is a hard way to start as the learning curve is steaper. Not only do you have to learn to load and fire but also have the idiosycracies of the flintlock to deal with. That said the flintlock is a lot of fun to shoot and I have several of them and love to shoot them. I shoot 490 RB in all my 50 caliber rifles and pistols. I do use different thickness patches is several different ones. I have found that .0016" patches work well in my Lyman rifles.

[44man]

The Lyman is just super! I have built a lot of kits for customers and all have shot clover leafs at 50 yd's. One fella I made one for shot a 3" group at 100 yd's --OFFHAND. I would suggest the 1 in 60 and a .495 ball with a .015" to .020" patch. I think it is one of the best factory rifles made.
Most use a .490 ball which is easier to load and OK for hunting. For the very best accuracy, go larger.
Flinters are not that hard to learn and shoot as fast as a caplock when loaded right. Don't get scared off, you will love it.
One suggestion for a flinter is to NOT use those sawn rocks they call flint. Go to Track of the Wolf and buy REAL flint.
When setting the flint in the cock, set it to touch the frizzen high so it sparks very soon. Test which direction the flint sparks best, sometimes turning it over is faster. You want a shower of steel to go in the pan as soon as the flint hits, not after it drags all the way down.
When you put FFFFG in the pan, keep the level just below the flash hole, do NOT cover it up. You do not want to wait for the powder to burn down to the flashole before the fire goes in the hole.
Pick up some Young Country patch lube. In my opinion it is the very best. There are a million recipes for lube but none have matched Young Country for ease of loading and continual shooting. I have no trouble running 200 shots a day without ever wiping the bore. When one load gets a little sticky, just add a little more lube to the next patch and you are good to go again.
My final comment is to STAY AWAY from the TC's, they vary from very accurate to absolute junk.