Case rim removal?

[stealthshooter]

What's the best way to remove the rim from a case? Is there a way to sheer them off or is a lathe required?

[Reload3006]

there is lots of ways to remove the rim depending on the brass. But let us assume that you are making 44 or 45 caliber bullets from 40S&W why remove it. It doesn't hurt anything. But "Rimless" the easiest would be a lathe or a small saw. rimmed you can use a shear die. or belted you can take the belt off with a shear die.

[stealthshooter]

I'm using 45acp brass and I'm wanting to make a clean BT bullet.

[Reload3006]

First I dont want to sound like an A&* hole. but a boat tail bullet is only useful out past 300 yards. any bullet you make with cartridge brass is not going to be very accurate out past 100 they make good plinking bullets but nothing you would want to shoot a match with. I really hesitate to reply because I dont want to cut the wind out of your sail. but making a boat tail bullet just isn't practical out of spent cartridge brass. even if you go through the trouble of putting them on a lathe and cutting it off and forming a bevel quasi boat tail the brass is not consistant in thickness and will wobble because of imbalance great plinking acceptable hunting but certainly nothing you would want for a long range bullet.

[Rangefinder]

First I dont want to sound like an A&* hole. but a boat tail bullet is only useful out past 300 yards.

Actually, one of the primary purposes is to aid in the destabilization effects of passing from supersonic into subsonic velocities. ;) Not sure where you're getting the "300 yard" data, since my long range stuff maintains out to a 1000+ before transition.

Stealthshooter>> What are you intending to swage TOO? As in caliber and for what intended purpose? Kinda sounds like a 3/4 jacketed 45-70 or similar, perhaps? I wouldn't say it's the "easiest" way, but a piece of round stock with a threaded hole in the end is a good start. Deprime the brass, slide it over the round stock, and tighten it down through the flash hole. Then chuck it in the lathe and turn it down to desired angle and base. Unless you're intending to round the mouth over into the ogive a fair amount, I'd suggest pressing a spent primer back into the pocket so case pressures don't effect the core--tiny bit of gas jetting into the flash hole could cause unnecessary balance issues if you're looking to stretch things out some distance.

[Reload3006]

Well Range finder your even made the point more valid ... but they also are supposed to reduce drag etc create a lower BC ... but lets not try to see who has the largest brain cells ... suffice it to say that Cartridge brass is not going to make a good LR bullet.

[stealthshooter]

I'm making 300 grain .452 bullets for my 450 bushmaster.

A BT makes a HUGE dif in this caliber out to the 300-400 yard range and I'm not sure why it's not possible to get an accurate bullet from spent brass bullets? I've seen people having a lot of success with them....................

[Reload3006]

Best of luck to you.

[Rangefinder]

Stealth>> re-read my post. ;) I edited to add a procedure you might consider.

06>> Always good to know we have an expert on hand with all the answers to unasked questions. ;) I don't believe he asked WHY a boat tail is used, just a procedure to make one. I take on plenty of projects that really serve no purpose beyond "can I do it?" A lot of them come from statements of "that can't be done"---right up until I do.

[stealthshooter]

Thanks Rangefinder!!

Wonder if I could do this and chuck it into my drill press and use my dremel to cut them off?

P.S. I resemble the remark about doing stuff just cuz I can!!

[Rangefinder]

Possible--a drill press makes a wonderful vertical lathe in a pinch, but I think I'd use a coarse file or regular carbide cutter tool to shave the rim down. rotation against counter-rotation isn't a good idea--especially where you want some level of consistency.

[gjemba]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=104778&highlight=milling+jigteh I trim the rims off with this for an old post of mine.

Gary

[williamwaco]

Stealth>> re-read my post. ;) I edited to add a procedure you might consider.

06>> Always good to know we have an expert on hand with all the answers to unasked questions. ;) I don't believe he asked WHY a boat tail is used, just a procedure to make one.

I take on plenty of projects that really serve no purpose beyond "can I do it?" A lot of them come from statements of "that can't be done"---right up until I do.




Most of the best fun I have in reloading is in doing things "everyone knows can't be done."



.

[Reload3006]

If you all bothered to read i gave 3 suggestions for removing the rim. I never said that it couldn't be done. I just suggested it was a lot of pain for very little gain. But what ever I like being proven wrong .... Ive only been a tool maker for 30+ years. Oh yea he said with out a lathe.... One of the more astute advisers first suggested using a lathe... Astounding.

[NoZombies]

If you all bothered to read i gave 3 suggestions for removing the rim. I never said that it couldn't be done. I just suggested it was a lot of pain for very little gain. But what ever I like being proven wrong .... Ive only been a tool maker for 30+ years. Oh yea he said with out a lathe.... One of the more astute advisers first suggested using a lathe... Astounding.

This is generally a pretty friendly and very helpful place. I have no beef with you, but reading some of your posts makes me cringe.

To the OP:

When I was in a 3rd world country, and had a need for small turned parts, but had no lathe, I used a drill press to turn the work, and a small vise with a cross slide to hold and move my cutting tool. It was slow going, and kind of a pain, but it did work for the 3 or 4 parts I needed. I suspect that if you go this route, the bearings will wear out quickly, as drill presses aren't really built to handle a lateral load. YMMV

[Reload3006]

Personally I have seen a lot more unfriendly posts than friendly... I do hope he has the utmost of success. And probably a small saw will be his best bet for removing the rim. then he can polish out the rough spots with a file. to get better quality will require a lathe. And he can certainly use his drill press with good results. But as you suggest he does run the risk of ruining his drill press.

and for what it is worth nothing apparently i meant no offense.

[littlejack]

Just recently, I saw a photo (I believe it was on this forum somewhere) that showed a 38 special case being de-rimmed with a die and I believe was a push pin/punch. Does anyone know where the photo is on the forum? It looked like the best and fastest way to de-rim a case to me.
Jack

[DukeInFlorida]

While we ALL have some "grouchy days", we also are here to help.
I read wonderful suggestions in this thread.

Take sarcasm with a grain of salt, and it will be a bit more palatable.

I don't see the need for removing rims from what I shoot. Sure the trimmed rims look more stylish, but it's more trouble than it's worth.

If you're looking to win international competitions, you aren't going to want to try to do that with reformed .40 S&W cases as jackets. If you're looking for great plinking rounds and awesome hunting rounds, you can leave the rims in place.

[littlejack]

The reason I was asking about the de-rimming die, is that I am working on different cartridge cases to make .410 bullets. I will be shooting/playing with these bullets in my .41 magnum. This is just one of those projects that I am doing because I can. It does not bother me to do something that someone else thinks is a waste of time. I was a steel fabricator for most of my working career. I greatly enjoy making things from metal and get a great amount of satisfaction from my efforts. I do not think a person should be critisized for wanting to do something different. This is how things get accopmplished, by folks thinking outside the bun.
I want to use the 30-30 cases to make some jackets. These will work very well, but I need to start with removing the rim first. So, I ask again, does anyone know where the photo or other reference of a/the de-rimming die is?
I have made a few jackets with the 40 S&W brass. These will work as well, but I am checking all avenues for my hobbie. The 30-30 brass will be thicker brass, and seeing as these bullets will be shot at a higher velocity , the brass should work very well.
Just having my own kind of fun.
Jack

[stealthshooter]

I'm not sure you guys are understanding exactly why I asked. Thanks for the suggestions on how to remove the rims. I don't care if it's practical to some of you I also didn't ask if it was necessary.......I just asked how to do it. In my application it will be very useful I promise. I also think I can build a die to perform this function. I'll need to push the case through rim first until it sheers the rim and then punch the case back out.

[Reload3006]

to shear off the rim of a 30-30 you will need a die (hole that just allows the base to enter catching the rim at the diameter you want to shear off. the punch needs to be flat short and strong just a guess because there is a formula for clearance I don't have with me but I imagine if your punch is .005 smaller than the desired OD of the sheared piece you should be good to go. I am not sure if a reloading press will easily develop the needed shear pressure or not but that is the ways its done

[Reload3006]

oh yes the die face needs to either be negatively relieved or straight to provide a shearing edge.

[BT Sniper]

I've sheared 38 spcs on a reloading press. Not to many though.

BT

[stealthshooter]

I've decided to take the advice of a fellow on another forum and run my cases through my point forming die rim first to form the boat tail. It works quite nicely.