Cannalure Tool

[GRUMPA]

I just got one and frankly never used one before either. I just got done doing 25 9mm j-words and started to load them up and the goofy things just fell in the case. When I looked a bit closer into the matter I noticed they went from .355 dia. to .350 dia.

With the instructions that came with it, it states that when contact is made with the projectile to back off the adjustment screw .005. Well that's simple enough, and to check the depth of the cannalure accurately I used my blade micrometers and it checks out A-OK.

Is this part of the norm? or am I just not doing something right?[smilie=1:

[BT Sniper]

Never heard of it going that way (smaller in diameter) before. I have'nt used the CH cannalure tool before but if I had to guess you are using to much pressure and actually "rolling" the diameter of the bullet smaller. Is "rolling" a form of "swaging"? Maybe! The depth of the cannalure grove doesn't need to be that deep to do the job. I recal reading about 5-15 thousands at the most somewhere. Usually the bullet grows a bit in diameter around the grove. Try using less pressure, it's all about the "feel" of doing things I keep talking about.

You'll get it I'm sure.

Good Shooting and Swage On!

BT

[DukeInFlorida]

Grumpa, who's cannelure tool did you use?

If it was the CH-4D tool, then you certainly have it set to roll too deep.

If you don't set the depth of cannelure set screw properly, you'll not only put a rolled groove in the bullet, but you'll also ROLL REDUCE the bullet up against the rollers.

There are two set screws that you have to adjust:

The one on the bottom adjusts where the cannelure gets placed on the bullet. The bullet rides on the top of that one.

The one near the pivot post adjusts where the swing arm stops. That's the one that you don't have adjusted right.



I found that if I didn't adjust the depth set screw properly, not only did I reduce the diameter of the bullet, I also could cut right through the brass "jacket" if I turned the crank enough.

Presuming all brass jackets (cases) are about the same thickness, you only have to ever change that set screw once.

And, if you have the set screws set properly, you cannelure to mechanical "stops"... no "feel" involved.....

Please report back.

[GRUMPA]

For you guys that use one of those CH-4D cannalure tools check with calipers and tell me what the final diameter of it is. PLEASE

Mine is .010 smaller than boolit diameter, but to be honest my wife says I don't know my own strength.

Duke I'm aware of the adjustments and maybe it could be I'm trying to do it to fast. I have mine in a machinist vise angled so when the boolit sets in there gravity itself keeps it there. Normally I crank the handle for just 6-10 seconds and I'm done.

It's just according to the directions they state to give it a .005 adjustment which in my mind would mean the diameter itself would be .010 different than boolit diameter.

[Reload3006]

I have the ch4d set the stop screw and you can squeeze all you want I usually re point form after I roll the cannlure in because i want to make sure that I have a good round bullet. I however have never had them go that far under.
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/reload3006/333828_2132054585063_1356964672_32171859_120181215 4_o.jpg

[Reload3006]

also i only go a couple of turns on the handle just enough to get a good print all the way around.

[DukeInFlorida]

The diameter of the knurl part of the tool is only a few thousandths larger than the roller part. So, if you don't have that set screw right, you'll dig in so far that the flat roller will start to roll the diameter of the bullet. You don't want the flat roller touching the bullet, only the knurl part. I'll check mine, and tell you what the diameters are.


For you guys that use one of those CH-4D cannalure tools check with calipers and tell me what the final diameter of it is. PLEASE

Mine is .010 smaller than boolit diameter, but to be honest my wife says I don't know my own strength.

Duke I'm aware of the adjustments and maybe it could be I'm trying to do it to fast. I have mine in a machinist vise angled so when the boolit sets in there gravity itself keeps it there. Normally I crank the handle for just 6-10 seconds and I'm done.

It's just according to the directions they state to give it a .005 adjustment which in my mind would mean the diameter itself would be .010 different than boolit diameter.

[Reload3006]

The diameter of the knurl part of the tool is only a few thousandths larger than the roller part. So, if you don't have that set screw right, you'll dig in so far that the flat roller will start to roll the diameter of the bullet. You don't want the flat roller touching the bullet, only the knurl part. I'll check mine, and tell you what the diameters are.

that is a fact and most likely you have cut your jacket in half too.

[GRUMPA]

Reload I can tell mine are deeper than yours.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/162764ecd588c3dbd5.jpg

Dang it for some reason I can't get my picture to show up. When I get in and edit the post it shows the HTTP already there but still nothing.....ODD

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/162764ecd5fdd3d6a2.jpg

That measures .346 diameter

[BT Sniper]

Grumpa,

You don't know your own strength :) Too deep and too many rotations. Start as shallow as possible then work up in depth till you find what you like without reducing final bullet diameter. It doesn't take much and you have a bit more then "much" with those bullets.

You'll get it I'm sure

BT

[Reload3006]

You can re-swage them in your point form die and they should come back out to diameter. Be careful doing that as the jackets may be so weak now that they will pull into ...Dont ask me how I know that. LOL

[GRUMPA]

Well these are actually factory boolits and I don't have a point forming die sooooo I guess they're going in the scrap bin. Glad I only did a few..

[DukeInFlorida]

On my CH4D cannelure tool, the diameter of the knurl is .742"

The diameter of the round roller is .642".

So, the difference is .100. Divided by two = .050" max depth for the cannelure.

However, you don't want to bottom the brass out on the roller.

So, I have my tool set to run about 2/3 of the possible depth. It seems to give me enough cannelure to crimp into for the sake of really holding onto the other bullets in the cylinder in the revolver, etc.

The success seems (thee way I run the tool) to be more with regard to tighter crimping, rather than deeper cannelures.

The thickness of the brass on a .40 S&W is a mere .0115" (.423" diameter - .400 bullet diameter divided by two)

So, if you try to bury the knurl tool all the way into the swaged bullet, and crank the handle enough times, you WILL cut through the case brass. At the very least, you will weaken the jacket.

Since you now indicate that you cannelured factory bullets, with obviously thinner jackets than a .40 S&W case, there would be no doubt that not only did you go so deep as to roll reduce the diameter of the bullets, you most likely also cut through the jacket entirely. Look at the cannelure you made with a magnifying glass and see if you don't recognize the silvery core.

I'll repeat for the sake of clarity:

Always set the stop set screw so that you always stop at the same depth, no matter how many times you crank the handle, and no matter how hard you press on the handle. A hard mechanical stop is always preferred.

(Think full length resizing...... you have to move the arm to a hard mechanical stop. Otherwise, you'll never get the same results twice in a row.)