I can't get this NEI mold right

[tommag]

My 2 cavity 6.5mm NEI still gives me flanges at the base of the boolit. I found that one of the mating pins need to be driven out a bit to eliminated the play between halves. That worked until the mold got hot. It took a lot of force to move the pin when cold.
Today I let the mold cool until I could handle it with gloves and drove the offending pin out a bit more. The pin moved much easier but I am nervous about hammers, punches, and hot aluminum. As the mold came back up in temp, the slop re-occurred.

One thing that really bugs me is my 2 Lee .30's are working better out of the box. Until I tried those molds, I was sure the problem was the nut holding the handles.

My request; Could I send this mold to one of you guys to try and tell me if you can find the problem? I have pretty much zero mechanical abilities and am afraid of turning a 100$ mold into scrap. (If I haven't already)

[nighthunter]

tommag .... I've had the same problem with a couple Lee molds. To correct it I drove The locateing pin the whole way out and applied Loctite #620 to the base of the pin and drove it back in from the outside. However, if your mold is new, I would think that sending it back to NEI and asking them to correct it might be a better solution.
Nighthunter

[tommag]

Nighthunter, it's not new, I've had it about a year or so. I might try that locktite idea.

[e15cap]

I cast with a dipper and have found that if I use only about half a ladle instead of full to the top, the flanges go away. Roger

[fatnhappy]

I would think that sending it back to NEI and asking them to correct it might be a better solution.
Nighthunter

I concur, without regard to it being a year old.

[44man]

HEY, just thought of something. If you over tighten the screws that hold the handles on you will put force on the blocks and it can permanently warp them or make the blocks bend when heated. Check those, they should only be snug enough to keep from unscrewing.
I bought a beautiful 2 cavity NEI mold for $8 and found one block bent badly from this. I fixed it and it works like a charm.

[sturf]

check very carefully for a burr or even a minute spot of lead that could be holding the blocks slightly apart.

[44man]

Sturf, Flash on top is caused by the top of the blocks not being flat, either from a warp or some other cause, or the sprue plate not a good fit. If you can see light between the plate and blocks, something is wrong.

[tommag]

Nighthunter- The loctite worked. .828 from back of block cold, .828 hot. Much better alignment and less flashing. Thanks
44man-I tend to tighten everything down pretty good, but they were just barely snug. Maybe I ovetightened them before.
Roger- That makes sense. Less head pressure from a 1/2 full ladle.
Sturf- The burr thing makes sense, too. If they don't close far enough to engage the pins to holes well it should screw up alignment. Not the case this time, one of the pins just refused to stay put when hot.

Thanks for the help, guys I think I got it! Tom