Mixing some lead

[Shedhunter]

Right now I have COWW, linotype and some pure lead. I want to make some 30-30 150gr gas checked bullets and also 160gr 308 gas checked bullets. Is it worth the effort to mix some linotype with the COWW to gain extra hardness? How much linotype should I add per pound of COWW?

I'm still a newbie to all this and don't want to waste any of the linotype since it's hard to find.

[John Boy]

Shed, do it right - there is a 4 step process:
1. Determine the SAMMI pressure of the caliber
http://www.lasc.us/SAAMIMaxPressure.htm
2. Determine the pressure for the reload you intend to use from the powder company loading tables
3. Determine the Brinell hardness of the alloy that fits into the working pressure for the reload you intend to use
http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellm.htm#Brinell
4. From the Cast Bullet Association references, down load the alloy mix calculation program and then calculate with the different metals to fit the alloy mix into the working pressure range for the reload
http://www.castbulletassoc.org/downloads/Alloy05.xls

Sorry to make you do your own homework, but your post information lacks details and ... you now have the tools to do future calculations on your own. It's all part of the learning process

[williamwaco]

Right now I have COWW, linotype and some pure lead. I want to make some 30-30 150gr gas checked bullets and also 160gr 308 gas checked bullets. Is it worth the effort to mix some linotype with the COWW to gain extra hardness? How much linotype should I add per pound of COWW?

I'm still a newbie to all this and don't want to waste any of the linotype since it's hard to find.


Different opinion from an old time caster.

You don't say what size pot you are using so I am going to assume it is a ten pound LEE. If it is larger, double the recipe.

Take about 5 or 6 pounds of WW ingots. Add about 1/2 pound of Linotype. Notice that I said "about" the exact weight is not important. You do not really need the Linotype at all but its tin content will make your bullets fill out easier and look "prettier".

Another recipe I really like and use occasionally is 50/50 softlead/linotype.

I use linotype ONLY to harden other metals or to add tin. It is too expensive to waste. I always use wheel weights first because at least so far, they are the cheapest and easiest to acquire.



.

[Shedhunter]

Thanks for the links, good info. I use the bottom pour 20lb Lee for casting. I am looking for a good all around rifle boolit mix and thanks for the info fellas.

[onesonek]

+1 on JB's post,,,read all you can!
Then ultimately the rifle will decide.

[cbrick]

Everyone is correct so far especially the read all you can part. Then you will know WHY you are doing something and not just because someone told you to.

I shoot both the 30-30 and the 308 with air cooled COWW plus 2% Sn to 1900 fps + with zero leaading and good accuracy, the lino really isn't needed for this application. You could save the lino for blending somewhere you do need it.

For the reading part, this is a great place to start.

From Ingot to Target (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf)

Rick

[sqlbullet]

I shoot 308 and 30-06 at 2000-2200 fps, as well as some 300 win mag loads that are 2200-2300 fps. I use Isotope lead that is tested as 96/3/1 lead/antimony/tin and add about 1% tin to the mix for better fillout. I water drop and gas check. These boolits test on my lee at a 26-27 a week after casting and a 24-25 a year after casting.

I have no leading with any of these boolits in my CETME, my Garands or my Remmy 700.

[WHITETAIL]

Shedhunter, Get a small note book.
And write down what ever you do.
Then if it doesnot work for you.
And you try somthing elts out. and it does work.
You can always repeat it.:castmine: