I stripped my Lee spure plate scew hole.

[John 242]

I was casting yesterday and managed to strip out the treads on my Lee six cavity .452 228 gr RN mold.
I mangled the threads that hold the bolt that attached the sprue plate to the mold.
Any ideas what I can do to get it fixed or is the mold trash?
Since I messed up the mold on my own, should I bother to contact Lee?
Should I try some sort of thread replacement such as Helicoil?

I still casted with it anyway. I removed the bushing from the other block (near side) and swapped the holes around. Now the bushing is loose, but the sprue hinge is tight.
Anyway, the sprue plate is not completely tight against the block and there is a little seepage but it's not a lot. I figure sizing will fix whatever is wrong with the boolits, but I am a newbie and I may be doing something very dumb and not realize it.
This is only my second batch of bullets and any advice would be helpful.
Thank you, John.

[Kraschenbirn]

Dunno' the screw size (diameter and # threads per inch) but you might be able to pick up a "Helicoil" kit in the correct size at your local auto supply store...or, if you've got a buddy who's a machinist or an automotive (or aircraft) mechanic, he (or she) might be willing to do the job for the cost of the insert and a six-pak of decent brew. Helicoils are inserts (threaded inside and out) for repair of stripped holes. A kit comes with a drill bit to open the stripped hole for retapping, a tap to thread the hole to accept the outside threads of the insert, and a tool for installing the insert which is pre-threaded to accept the original screw size.

[imashooter2]

Drill and tap from the end of the block for a set screw. Put the sprue plate back on like it should be. Tighten the set screw to hold the sprue plate screw in place. Then stake the set screw hole with a center punch to keep it from backing out. Should be good for many years more use.

[woodman51jfk]

..........just to throw in my two cents worth......I have had years of working on aluminum cases engines, and many occasions to fix threads from gorilla wrenches....while HeliCoils are handy, the best solution is a threaded insert. Drill & tap the block for the insert, install it with the supplied "T" handle wrench, a few drops of Loctite 271, and you now have a steel set of threads for the screw to secure in without fear of stripping the block. Threaded inserts are available at most machine supply & ful service, quality auto parts houses........ya ain't got one close....find the nearest mechanic or machinist....he'll know where to get them.

[Sundogg1911]

why not just drill and tap to a slightly bigger size?

[woodman51jfk]

wouldn't you then be looking at having to enlarge the hole on the hardened sprue cutter, meaning a cobalt bit, as well as having to do away with the standard shouldered screw & wave washer set-up........just wait sundogg......that evo might get lucky enough to have as many rebuilds as my 'ol '48....then you'll get to try all sorts 'o fixes.......

[imashooter2]

The Lee 6 banger plates are aluminum, but losing the stock shoulder bolt and wave washer would make installation a PITA.

[John 242]

Thanks guys, I'm getting lots of good ideas.

Can I use a hand held power drill to drill the threads out? I don't have a drill press.

[carpetman]

John242---It would be much easier to hold a hand held power drill than holding a drill press.

[woodman51jfk]

.carpetman........mebbe wrastle a lil' bench-top press..............nah



.John242............just use a square ( or anything with precise 90* right angles ), and hold it next to the hand drill to help visually align the bit, take it slow & easy & keep the bit square to the block ....you'll be fine with a steady hand.........

imashooter2............., yeah I overlooked the part about it being a six banger........but...when did they switch?????my Lees are ALL steel sprue cutters, but then I haven't bought a new one for quite a while......

[montana_charlie]

I've never seen one of those moulds, so this might not be appropriate, but...

Using the correct 'tap drill' for the original threads in that hole, drill the existing hole clear out through the bottom of the mould half.

Tap that entire hole for the original threads.

Run a long screw up from the bottom, so it protrudes out the top, and make it tight...maybe even use Loc-Tite.

Place the sprue plate on the new threaded 'stud', then add the wave washer and a self-locking nut.

Using this method, I believe the repair can be done without special tools...like a drill press.
CM

[SharpsShooter]

I've never seen one of those moulds, so this might not be appropriate, but...

Using the correct 'tap drill' for the original threads in that hole, drill the existing hole clear out through the bottom of the mould half.

Tap that entire hole for the original threads.

Run a long screw up from the bottom, so it protrudes out the top, and make it tight...maybe even use Loc-Tite.

Place the sprue plate on the new threaded 'stud', then add the wave washer and a self-locking nut.

Performed carefully, I believe this job can be done with a hand held drill.
CM

Gonna file that one away MC. Good suggestion sir. If you did not have a self locking nut, you could always double nut it and lock them with oppositional torque.

SS

[R.M.]

Would the heat be too much for the nylon in a self-locking nut? Don't know.

R.M.

[montana_charlie]

Would the heat be too much for the nylon in a self-locking nut? Don't know.

R.M.
I would use a lock nut that is all metal...

[shaggy357]

Check your local auto parts store for Loc-Tite brand thread builder kit. It is similar to the Loc-tite thread locker, but you use a release agent on the screw and don't screw it in real tight. It leaves a set of threads in the hole. Similar consept to bedding compound used in rifle stocks. Works good on aluminum engine blocks and manifolds.

Steve :mrgreen:

[montana_charlie]

It is similar to the Loc-tite thread locker, but you use a release agent on the screw and don't screw it in real tight. It leaves a set of threads in the hole.
I've been using Acra-Glas and JB Weld to do that (with paste wax for the release agent) for many years. I just wonder if the Loc-Tite material will take casting temperatures...as engines are supposed to stay below the boiling point of water.
CM

[Sundogg1911]

Woodman,
I suggested that because i've done it. the sprue plate on the Lee's is soft. you can get by without a shoulderd screw. it'll work fine. What is your '48? I have a '42 Flathead police bike as well as my Softail Custom, Sportster, and Venom Chopper. (Gotta fill up that garage somehow!) ;-)
gonna sell the Chopper and by a touring bike though. (maybe) :-)

[Lloyd Smale]

send it back to lee and they will send you a new one or repair it.

[woodman51jfk]

Sundogg1911,
'48s just an 'ol FL, but I redid the cases to run a Timken left main, and had Branch flow the heads & install shovel stellite seats, running a bored out Bendix with Hunt mag. Which Flattie...weren't the police bikes/trikes using all three....45", 61" & 80" back then....

[imashooter2]

imashooter2............., yeah I overlooked the part about it being a six banger........but...when did they switch?????my Lees are ALL steel sprue cutters, but then I haven't bought a new one for quite a while......

Beats me... I've never seen one that wasn't aluminum (on the Lee 6 bangers anyway).

[Flinchrock]

wouldn't you then be looking at having to enlarge the hole on the hardened sprue cutter, meaning a cobalt bit, as well as having to do away with the standard shouldered screw & wave washer set-up........just wait sundogg......that evo might get lucky enough to have as many rebuilds as my 'ol '48....then you'll get to try all sorts 'o fixes.......

Insert will be best, if there is enough stock on the blocks, will be an improvement!

Ain't no evo gonna get that lucky '76 Shovel:)

[Springfield]

Drill it out and re tap it to 5/16x24. Just did a couple more today, works well. I also drill out and tap a hole to put in a 10 x 32 brass screw to use as a set screw, that way I don't ruin the threads. I also like to put a washer under the head of the Sprue plate bolt, gives the plate more support. Lee really needs to use bigger bolts and install set screws. The holes in the sprue plate works well with the 5/16's bolt, don't have to cut anything. I like to use a bolt with a shoulder on it but it isn't totally necessary.

[Sundogg1911]

Woodman, It's a 45 Cubic Incher. got it back to stock other than the tank emblems are from a 1947, and the tank shift gate is from either a side car special, or Servicar. It has an "R" on it for reverse. Picked it up after I restored and sold a 1962 Pan Head Duo-Glide (I really Miss that one!)

Sorry for Hijacking the thread with Scooter talk! I'll try to make some bullet casting comments on the cycle newsgroups to make it even ;-)

[lovedogs]

I like Lloyd's idea.

[Springfield]

Do they repair it or replace the mould? They can't replace my GB moulds, so not an option.

[John 242]

I snugged down that screw as much as possible and I'm still casting with it.
I thinks it's got a few good threads still, but I need to get it fixed or replaced sooner or latter. I haven't called Lee, yet. I've found that when the mold gets hot, the sprue plate screw will start to unscrew. This is likely the reason I stripped it out in the first place. It came loose and I used too much torque tightening it down.
Well, I learned a lesson; Don't use a lot of force on a hot aluminum mold. Be gentle.
I like the idea of using JB Weld. Simple enough.
Before I attempt to fix the mold I will call Lee and see what they say.
Thank you for all the good ideas, I appreciate your time.
Thanks,
John

[Netherwolf]

I snugged down that screw as much as possible and I'm still casting with it.
I thinks it's got a few good threads still, but I need to get it fixed or replaced sooner or latter. I haven't called Lee, yet. I've found that when the mold gets hot, the sprue plate screw will start to unscrew. This is likely the reason I stripped it out in the first place. It came loose and I used too much torque tightening it down.
Well, I learned a lesson; Don't use a lot of force on a hot aluminum mold. Be gentle.
I like the idea of using JB Weld. Simple enough.
Before I attempt to fix the mold I will call Lee and see what they say.
Thank you for all the good ideas, I appreciate your time.
Thanks,
John

I'm in the same boat. Let us know what you find out from Lee.
TIA,
Netherwolf

[Lloyd Smale]

they may replace it they did for one of my 45bd molds i got in a group buy they usually keep a couple extras on the shelf for warantee problems.
Do they repair it or replace the mould? They can't replace my GB moulds, so not an option.

[Netherwolf]

they may replace it they did for one of my 45bd molds i got in a group buy they usually keep a couple extras on the shelf for warantee problems.

I should have been more clear. Mine is not a GB mold. I don't know if stripping the spure plate screw hole is a warranty issue or not (I wouldn't think they warrant against my own stoooopidity). Guess I'll have to call them before deciding whether to attempt a fix or just buy a new mold. The 5/16x24 with a 10-32 set screw approach sounds pretty good. The worse I can do is really screw it up & have to buy a new one. Considering how many thousands of boolits I've cast with it for my subgun & the relatively low replacement cost, I couldn't complain if I have to spring for a new one. At today's ready-made cast bullet cost, a new mold pays for itself in no time.
Thanks again,
Netherwolf

[Lloyd Smale]

whatever you do dont call them or write them. You will usually get a runaround of some sort. Just box it up with a letter attached with the problem and ive yet to not have them send me back a fixed mold or a new one.

[drinks]

The WLD and Servicar used the 45".
Civy and police used EL, FL, UL and ULH, difference was battery and oil tank and the front fender, police had a side by side oil and battery, not the battery surrounded by the oil tank and had a cutout in the front fender for the friction driven siren.
I had an ex Hwy P. '48 ULH, an 80" flat head.
I am sure a nylon inserted nut would melt.
Either the steel insert or through drilling would likely be the most satisfactory, with the through drilling being the easiest to do.