advice on H110 reloads

[desertwheeler]

I'm reloading for the first time, and need some advice. I went to the local gun shop and the guy told me to get Remington primers. He said they have worked the best for him. He also sold me a bottle of H110 powder. I'll be reloading 38 specials and 357 magnums with 158 grain flat nose bullets from the Lee 358-158-RF mold. I'll also be loading 44 specials and 44 magnums with 250 grain bullets from the RCBS 44-250-K 44 mold. How much of the H110 powder should I start with for these rounds? Thanks.

...I should add that I'm not looking for max power. I'd like to stay on the lower end. My 357 is a Dan Wesson. My 44 is a S&W Model 29-6.

[frankenfab]

If you are reloading for the first time, I can not stress enough...get a reloading manual and read it first, if you don't have one.

The primers, no big deal, but your gun shop guy let you down if you are wanting to load the specials and medium loads in the magnums. Something like HP-38 or HS-6 would have been a lot better for those cartridges and loads.

You don't want to load reduced loads with H110. That's not what it was intended for, and the manufacturer of the powder even has a warning on the label not to use reduced loads with H110:

"For those loads listed where a starting load is not shown, start 10% below the suggested maximum load and then approach maximums carefully, watching for any sign of pressure (difficult extraction, cratered and flattened or blown primers, and unusual recoil). H110 and Winchester 296 loads should not be reduced more than 3%.

Reduce H110 and Winchester 296 loads 3% and work up from there. H110 and Winchester 296 if reduced too much will cause inconsistent ignition. In some cases it will lodge a bullet in the barrel, causing a hazardous situation (Barrel Obstruction). This may cause severe personal injury or death to users or bystanders. DO NOT REDUCE H110 LOADS BY MORE THAN 3%. "

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

[desertwheeler]

Thanks! I've just been reading exactly what you wrote about reduced loads with H110. I haven't opened it yet, so I think I'll take it back and try to exchange it for the HP type you recommended.

[frnkeore]

One of the best mid range powders is and has always been Unique.

Frank

[GRUMPA]

Thanks! I've just been reading exactly what you wrote about reduced loads with H110. I haven't opened it yet, so I think I'll take it back and try to exchange it for the HP type you recommended.


I think that would be the wisest decision you could make. I personally only use H110 on high end loads and that's it.

[desertwheeler]

Appreciate the feedback.


One of the best mid range powders is and has always been Unique.

I specifically asked if they carried Unique and the guy said they didn't have any, so I'll have to go with another type. I'm not sure if they have the HP-38 or HS-6, so I welcome any other recommendations.

[mustanggt]

2400 is a good magnum powder to use. You don't have the problems associated with H110/296. It will light easy. I use it in reduced load rifle rounds for my milsurps. For your two specials AA5 works well or try some of the DOT powders (blue, red or green.) Sounds like your gunshop guy is limited on powder choices. I would also recomend getting more than one load manual to compare data. It's just a good reloading practice to have as much info as possible. Take it slow and easy. This is nothing to get in a hurry about. If I've ever made a mistake it has been when I am distracted, tired or in a hurry. If you are getting that way just stop and walk away. Always check, double check and triple check your work. Catch your mistakes at the reloading bench not at the range. Good luck and have fun.

[desertwheeler]

Thanks mustanggt. They had quite a few powders, but I didn't know what I was looking at. I just know for sure they didn't have Unique because I asked. I do remember seeing Bullseye because it's easy to remember. Would that be a good choice? Just to clarify, I don't have a lot of brass, and I want to reload the shorter specials and the longer mags with the same bullet size and the same powder, but obviously in different amounts. I can't buy multiple powders and bullet sizes right now, so I'm kind of looking for a compromise that I can use reduced for the special rounds (target and plinking) and increased for the mag rounds (hunting) (but keeping the mag rounds on the "lighter" side).

[frankenfab]

+1 on 2400. Great Powder.

[mustanggt]

Bullseye would be a fine choice for your specials. It doesn't take much for it to work which makes it real easy to double charge if you aren't on top of things. Unique unfortunately is the one powder you can use for all of your needs you described but your guy doesn't have it. If you can call other places near you to see if they have any it might be worth your time.

[Rocky Raab]

There are several powders that will "stretch" enough to use at both Special and near-Magnum power levels. Unique is one (and the shop may have only been temporarily out - ask often), and so is Hodgdon Universal. Both are appropriately named.

Also in the running are Winchester's 231 (which is also sold as HP-38 by Hodgdon) and Accurate #5. IMR's PB and Alliant's Herco are frequently overlooked on the shelf but are excellent choices. Newer all-rounders include Alliant's Power Pistol, and Ramshot's True Blue.

Just be sure to use current data for whatever one you come home with, start out low until you truly understand the processes involved, and be prepared fora steep learning curve. And DO NOT be afraid to ask questions here -- there's only about 5,000 years of combined experience base on this website alone!

[bobthenailer]

Ive been using BE or TIGHTGROUP in the 38/357 mag. 44/44mag & 454 Casull for many years with excellent results for loads in the 800 to 1000 fps range for more velocity but less than max i use HS6 or something simular in burning speed and only use 296/H110 for full powed loads.

[.357MAN]

I hate H110 in .357 magnum. It was my first powder in .357 caliber for use in my dads Ruger GP100 6". I only got it cause of the rave reviews about it. I had problems with cylinder gas/powder spiting, bad inconsistent groups ( averaged 5" but had 8" at 25 yards ), excessive recoil ( even with starting loads ), and excessive noise ( ringing ears after a cylinder full with good ear protection on ), and destroyed brass after 4 reloads ( from roll crimping ). It was the biggest waste of 6 weeks of painstaking load development and testing in my life. H110 soured me on the .357 magnum so much that I started shooting 38 special in that Ruger. Now I can get an average of 2.7" groups at 25 yards out of the same Ruger with my cast boolits using 4 gr. of IMR's Trail Boss . I am hoping to close that too 2" or better after I open up my molds and sizing die another .0005" to fit the Rugers's one large cylinder throat.

I don't doubt that H110 has worked for some, but I came to the conclusion that most people praised H110 cause it turned there .357 magnum into a hand cannon.

[lylejb]

My 629 LOVES win 296 ( h110) for flame throwing, max-knots-per-hour, j-word loads.

Now, for the other 99% of the time, when I don't want to abuse my gun, my wrists, and everybody's ears, unique works for me.

Win 231 (hp-38) looks very versitile in the loading manuals too, but I've never been able to get the accuracy I wanted from it. It may be just me, others like it.

bullseye has been a standard in 38 target loads forever (ok, only 100 years or so). It's been long proven to work well for that. It's too fast to get the full potential from the magnums, however.

As Rocky said, Herco (slightly slower burning cousin to unique) should be good, and Hodgdon universal ( hodgdon's "improved" version of unique) are worth a try.

[Rocky Raab]

I rather strongly suspect that a whole lot of -- well, let's call them "inexperienced" -- reloaders pick powders by scanning down the far right-hand column of velocity results and buying the powder that has the biggest number. Often, that turns out to be 110/296. What those reloaders don't know is that their powder is good ONLY for that maximum load level.

We older coots made the same mistake, mind you, but we made it decades ago and tend to forget that little lapse. (We also forget what we ate for dinner last night, but that's a different thing altogether...)

Suffice it to say that if you pay attention at the range you'll see a passel of young guys hefting five-pound handguns that mimic dragons at each shot, and a few secretly smirking old guys making mild "boom, boom" noises with modestly sized handguns. Both groups will remark, "What recoil?"

Only one group will be lying.

[BeeMan]

There is more than a little truth in Rocky's post #15.

[44MAG#1]

There is really only needed for the 44 Special 2 powders either Unique or Power Pistol and 2400.
There is nothing wrong with W296/H110 for upper loads. I would keep the pound I had and then get me a pound of Unique or Power pistol.
You will want to try some of the hotter loads soon enough, most do.
16.5 to 17.0 gr W296/H110 with the 250 Keith will be okay in guns that are strong enough for the hotter loads. Ruger Flattop 44 Special or guns of that type,
6.5 Unique to 8 gr or 7 to 9 gr with Power Pistol.
In the 44 Special I might add.

[redneckdan]

I have had some success with 296/H110. I use magnum primers and a very heavy crimp. Some bullets don't allow a heavy enough crimp. In my experience the 429640 is one of them.

[Wayne Smith]

To get specifically back to the powders mentioned; Bullseye is about the fastest (smallest charge, easy overload) of the appropriate powders and 2400 is about the slowest. All of the others mentioned fall between them in speed.

My advice is to get at least two major reloading manuals, Lyman, Serria, Speer, etc that have a primer on reloading in the front and data in the back. Go to the 357 Mag pages and look at the powers used and the speed each give at what loads. This will educate you a lot about which powder to choose. Do the same for each cartridge you intend to load. You will probably end up with more than one can of powder. It is the method I have always used to choose a powder to try.

[Rico1950]

Make one of those reloading manuals one with pressure readings.

[desertwheeler]

Thanks for all of the input.

I went back to the shop today, and even though I only bought the powder last Thursday, they wouldn't take it back. No returns on powders...final. That got me a little hot under the collar. I asked the guy helping me if there were other reloading suppliers in town and he gave me three places. I picked one and drove over there. That place was the jackpot. They had everything, including a huge selection of revolvers (with more than reasonable prices...I see another 44 in my future...something I can abuse with the H110 I'm stuck with...like a SBH). They had an old K-22 in very decent shape for a little over $400. That made my mouth water. Anyway, these guys were serious reloaders and were much more helpful. I walked out with a bottle of Unique and a bunch of Federal primers (I can compare them to the Remington primers I got at the other place). (And the guy told me they would have taken back the H110.) So I feel pretty good about powder now. Thanks again for all of the help.

[Ole]

The trick to getting H110 to burn consistently is to give the case a really healthy roll crimp. Seat your bullet and crimp in separate steps. You should crimp so much that you're almost messing up the case with the crimp. Experience will teach you what the "feel" is that you're shooting for.

My experience anyway.

As stated, don't use H110 in anything other than max loads.

I use 2 powders for .44 Mag: H110 and Unique. :mrgreen:

[44MAG#1]

With the deranged people around nowadays it would seem like you would be more understanding not taking back an "unopened" can of powder.
Who is to say you or I am not one of them that would just like to cause havoc and could have possible opened the can an dumped some Bullseye in it just to do something mean?
If i were a dealer I probably wouldn't take back powder either. Or ammo too.
It is what it is in this day and time.
Its not like the seal couldn't be put back almost perfectly.

Think about it.

[desertwheeler]

Yeah, I get it....but the guy who sold it to me had no idea what he was talking about. I told him what I wanted and he just said "try this." I guess ultimately I have to take the blame for not doing more homework. (And this gives me the excuse I need to get that Ruger SBH...can't go tearing apart my Model 29 with screamer loads of H110...)

So I've been looking at the data for using Unique. The web site says to use CCI primers, and they caution against using anything else. How much of a difference will it make? Do others here use primers other than those recommended by the powder makers?

[462]

You do have at least two reloading manuals that you've read at least twice, right? If not, you need to re-group and buy them.

[Safeshot]

If you use Win 296 or H 110, be sure to use MAGNUM Primers. Magnum primers are a "given" in all of the load data that I have seen for these powders. I like these powders for the .357 Mag and the .44 Mag.

If you use the Lee Auto Prime, Lee recommends only Winchester or CCI primers be used.

The advice concerning getting a loading manual is good. I would recommend at lease TWO. The LEE and the Speer are good to start.

Just some suggestions.

[44MAG#1]

desertwheeler said:
"can't go tearing apart my Model 29 with screamer loads of H110...)"
Who said you had to use screamer loads. that is where you need to learn more about reloading from recognized loading manuals before jumping to conclusions.Example: Speer number 14 says with a 240 gr Jacketed 22.0 to 24.0 gr H110 velocities from 1362 to 1451.
Hodgdons lists with a 240 gr jacketed 23.0 gr at 1431 fps @ 25,200 CUPS to 24 at 1522 fps @ 36,200 CUP's which is under SAMMI spec on pressure. this from an 8.275 inch test barrel which will give higher velocities than a revolver.
Screamer loads??? Who said that???
Sure your M29 will last longer at 1200 than 1300, longer at 1100 than 1200, longer at 800 than 900 and longer if it is never fired.
Best thing to do is get some books.
Always take anything said by no matter who says it with anywhere from a grain of salt to a sack of salt. Always reference any load data given to you by double checking against reliable test data regardless who gives it to you. I don't care if it is you most favorite and trusted person in the whole wide world. Mistakes in memory happen.
Also best to study before trying to absorb anything asked on the INTERNET.
I would say many use primers that are different than the recommended primers. I have and do. Especially if the loads are mild pressure loads.
That is the reason one "works up" a load. To look for anything suspicious in nature with anything concerning the load.

[Rocky Raab]

A change in primer with all other components the same can - in the worst case scenario - raise pressures by as much as 10,000 psi. That is especially true if switching from a standard primer to a magnum OR THE OTHER WAY AROUND! That last may seem counter-intuitive, but lots of things in reloading are both true and counter-intuitive.

Do pay attention to the manual and try to duplicate their recipe exactly. If you can't, at least stick to the same TYPE of component: standard or magnum primer, cast or jacketed bullet, brass or nickled case, and so forth. Always begin with the Start load because even that just might turn out to be warm in your gun with your components. A few shots at that level costs little and may save you a lot!

[44MAG#1]

Here I go flapping my big jaws again or better still flapping my fat fingers. If we named all the varibles in load data that could make a difference and the proposed amount of that difference we could make a thread just on that that would take up much space and never solve anything.
1 Changing lots of the same powder can make differnces.
2 Changing lots of the same primer can make a difference.
3 Changing from a thin case to a thicker case and vise versa can make a difference
4 Changing brands of bullets in the same weight can make a difference.
5. Changing seating depth can make a difference.
6 Changes in temperature can make a difference.
7 Changes from one gun to another can make a difference
8 Amount of crimp can make a difference.
Many things can cause differences. these are just a few of that I recollect.
Still i reload. Still I shoot.
We keep these things in mind so as to be careful. Just like we practice defensive driving we practice defensive reloading by "working up a load" and watching for abnormalities by observing signs of abnormalities if we know what to look for.

[Rocky Raab]

"Defensive reloading."

I LIKE that!

[desertwheeler]

desertwheeler said:
"can't go tearing apart my Model 29 with screamer loads of H110...)"
Who said you had to use screamer loads. that is where you need to learn more about reloading from recognized loading manuals before jumping to conclusions.Example: Speer number 14 says with a 240 gr Jacketed 22.0 to 24.0 gr H110 velocities from 1362 to 1451.
Hodgdons lists with a 240 gr jacketed 23.0 gr at 1431 fps @ 25,200 CUPS to 24 at 1522 fps @ 36,200 CUP's which is under SAMMI spec on pressure. this from an 8.275 inch test barrel which will give higher velocities than a revolver.
Screamer loads??? Who said that???
Sure your M29 will last longer at 1200 than 1300, longer at 1100 than 1200, longer at 800 than 900 and longer if it is never fired.
Best thing to do is get some books.
Always take anything said by no matter who says it with anywhere from a grain of salt to a sack of salt. Always reference any load data given to you by double checking against reliable test data regardless who gives it to you. I don't care if it is you most favorite and trusted person in the whole wide world. Mistakes in memory happen.
Also best to study before trying to absorb anything asked on the INTERNET.
I would say many use primers that are different than the recommended primers. I have and do. Especially if the loads are mild pressure loads.
That is the reason one "works up" a load. To look for anything suspicious in nature with anything concerning the load.

I'm running on a super limited budget. I don't want to buy books if I don't have to. (SWMBO has made it very clear I've spent too much already.) I'm only reloading for my 357 and my 44. Why buy a book that covers all of the calibers? The powders I bought have all of their reloading data online. While I was at the gun shop, the guy helping me took out the Lyman manual and we looked at it together. At least the same info if not more is available on the powder web sites. Is there anything wrong with going by that?

By screamer loads, I just meant full-house magnums. My only point of reference is the Winchester white box mags sold at Walmart. I would prefer to tone my loads down a little from those. I don't know if that's possible with the H110; it doesn't sound like it is.

The M-29s aren't built like the Ruger 44's. This is well-verified. Why not have a little caution and sense about using it? Besides helping the gun to last longer, I don't want to shoot high powered magnum rounds anyway. I don't feel the need to. Ideally I would like to shoot a magnum that is somewhere between the special and the standard manufactured magnum like the Winchesters I was shooting.

I admit I'm not even to first base with casting and reloading. That's why I'm here, asking questions. Thanks for helping me out.

[462]

In the interest of safety -- yours and others who may be around you when you're reloading and shooting: If you are disinclined to buy a reloading manual, just how do you propose to learn the safe and proper way to go about reloading? Please, don't say You Tube, the Internet, or some guy at a gun shop or a sporting goods store.

Please!, buy a manual. Cruise over to the site's Swappin & Sellin forum and post a Want To Buy/Want To Trade thread. Perhaps you have something that's of interest to someone who has an extra manual.

[desertwheeler]

462, I appreciate your advice. Tell me what is in the manuals that I can't find on the official web sites of the powder companies. I need to be enlightened....

[357Mag]

Desert -

Howdy !

For a 158SWC in .357Mag, I recommend 14.5gr WW296 ( H110 same thing ) and SP Magnum primer.

Have not found a more accurate and flexible load in over 35yr of .357Mag use in "N"-frames.

With regards,
357Mag

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

Ditto on getting at least two reference manuals and study the loading tables before making any decisions. I find myself going to my Hornady and Lyman Manuals more than any of the others I have. Lee has a manual that is very informative but needs updating as the load data is getting a little old. There is also excellent data available on the Internet with a little searching. With that said I've used more Bullseye than any other powder except perhaps Unique over the yrs in both 38/357/44 cast loads with excellent results. My only complaint is that Unique is not as powder measure friendly as I would like. Over the past couple of yrs Tite-Group has become one of my favorite powders for both 38 and 357 cast and jacketed loads. It meters great and charges are dead on every time I check. H110 is a finicky powder that I have used in 44 mag 240 grain jacketed loads and a few 357 158 jacketed bullet loads. I shot up the few pounds I bought yrs ago and have not purchased any since. Accuracy was mediocre and the muzzle blast and flash was horrendous. The few times I loaded H110 in the 357's it was only with 158 jacketed bullets and again the results were dismal. I never even tried cast with it. 2400 is an excellent powder for full throttle jacketed loads in the 357 and 44 magnum but did not burn cleanly/completely in heavy jacketed 38 loads. While 2400 is an excellent powder, there are many more suitable powders for both cast and jacketed 38/357/44 mag. applications. The man that sold you the 110 probably had it on his shelf for quite sometime and saw an opportunity to move it out the door. I don't know anyone who uses in it any 38 special load. When powder was much less I was more prone to experiment. The cost of powders these days limits my ability to experiment or keep separate powders for specific loads. The powders that can do most everything well are the ones on my shelf now. They may not be the best choices for light target or heavy hunting loads but they do both in an acceptable manner. Tite-Group powder fills that niche for me.

Mike

[badbob454]

i like AA #9 for all my pistols/handguns 9 mak to 454 casull/ or the variant WC80 burns a little slower than #9 but test (your batch( first there are 3 speeds of wc820 burns clean and doesn't seem to be position sensitive

[badbob454]

462, I appreciate your advice. Tell me what is in the manuals that I can't find on the official web sites of the powder companies. I need to be enlightened....

safety tips, and reloading guidlines, and warnings, instructions, etc. ,etc. read it and save a gun or more important your eyesight or a hand if you dont and hot load a rifle and blow it up , happens even with the experienced

[desertwheeler]

Thanks, guys. That is helpful.

[44MAG#1]

"At least the same info if not more is available on the powder web sites. Is there anything wrong with going by that?"

Nothing wrong with that. Just as long as it is a recognized source not something someone threw together.

"By screamer loads, I just meant full-house magnums. My only point of reference is the Winchester white box mags sold at Walmart. I would prefer to tone my loads down a little from those. I don't know if that's possible with the H110; it doesn't sound like it is."

You are correct H110 is not designed to be downloaded very much. If you would have looked at Hodgdons reloading data center you would have seen that. But, at the time you may not have know it existed. Winchester loads standard SAAMI specs loads. I've shot them and you are right most don't need the full magnums most of the time. What do you mean by a little 100 fps, 150 fps, 200 fps, 300 fps? What? That could go a long way in knowing what powder you want. 2400 will be okay in both if you want know off a couple hundred or slightly more. It is also capable of giving magnum performance too.

"The M-29s aren't built like the Ruger 44's"

Most people know that I would assume that has been familiar with the 44 mags.

" Why not have a little caution and sense about using it? Besides helping the gun to last longer, I don't want to shoot high powered magnum rounds anyway."

As above in my other posts I said to be cautious. We all would like our guns to last forever too.

"Ideally I would like to shoot a magnum that is somewhere between the special and the standard manufactured magnum like the Winchesters I was shooting"

So you are looking for roughly 1050 fps. That should be easy to pick a powder that will do it.

"I admit I'm not even to first base with casting and reloading. That's why I'm here, asking questions. Thanks for helping me out."

Remember to VERIFY any data given to you by anyone no matter who it is by using a recognized source.
Better still "buy some books" SWMBO will get over it in time. Mine has. Yours will too.

[462]

Desertwheeler wrote: 462, I appreciate your advice. Tell me what is in the manuals that I can't find on the official web sites of the powder companies. I need to be enlightened....

Desertwheeler,
The various powder companies’ Internet sites provide only loads, they do not get into the safety aspects nor the actual process of reloading. Furthermore, the companies that publish reloading manuals -- Lyman, Hornady, Speer, Sierra -- do so only in book form, not on the Internet.

If you were to post a question asking, “I what to start reloading, what is the first piece of reloading equipment that I should buy”, the majority of the responders will say a manual.

At the outset, you were ill-advised. If you had purchased a manual, instead of a pound of H-110, you would have known that it wasn’t the powder for your intended purposes. Now, you have powder that cost twice as much as a second-hand manual, and you may never use the powder. How much more of that are you willing to endure, because you don’t want to buy a manual?

Again, PLEASE, buy a manual.

[44MAG#1]

"Furthermore, the companies that publish reloading manuals -- Lyman, Hornady, Speer, Sierra -- do so only in book form, not on the Internet. "

That is correct because they want to make money on their books which is entirely okay.
A book should have been THE FIRST thing a new reloader should buy. Of course eveyone at times wants to jump the gun.

Hodgdon has data on line though.

[desertwheeler]

Appreciate the additional comments and advice. UPS tried to deliver my new reloading equipment today, but nobody was home. I'll make sure I'm home tomorrow. Can't wait. Just need to pick up some magnum primers since I only bought the regular ones. I'll get CCI since that's what the powder company's data calls for. Here's one more question. How does the handloaded H110 44 magnum with a 250 grain Keith bullet compare to factory Winchester white box mags? Are they about the same? If they are more powerful, I'll use the Unique to load softer magnums and just keep the H110 for my DW 357 or my SBH when I get it (the shop has a 5 1/2 inch stainless SBH that is irresistible....maybe I should try playing the lottery just once).

[MtGun44]

+1 for reading the front part of a couple of books to learn about what the whole process
was intending to accomplish and most importantly - HOW TO DO IT SAFELY.

There are a lot of ways to cause some serious mayhem out of simple ignorance.

Please get a couple of books and read. Not just the loading data, the HOW TO sections
at the front.

Bill

[44MAG#1]

The Keith can be loaded to the same velocity with H110. Speer lists 21 to 23 grains Lyman lists 24 to 25 grains of H110 both with CCI 350 primers.
See if you would have "The Books" you would have known that.
Be sure to check what I listed before you use the data.
Very important.

[ghh3rd]

A couple of comments in this thread made me nervous. I've only been loading for 2-3 years, so I may be worrying for nothing, but since a new reloader is asking questions, he should be aware of any concerns other members may have, in the spirt of learning.

The comments of concern to me regard crimping, and are "I use magnum primers and a very heavy crimp" and "You should crimp so much that you're almost messing up the case with the crimp."

I was "skooled" by others on this forum to use enough crimp to keep the boolits in place, but not to use excessive crimp, or I would risk excessive pressure.

Especially for a new user who does not have any practicle experience with pressures and pressure signs, it may be a good idea to clarify what a very heavy crimp is, lest they learn about pressures the hard way.

Please feel free to correct me if I am worrying for nothing.

Thanks,

Randy

[44MAG#1]

You crimp the case to the bottom of the crimp groove is the heaviest you need. You test your crimp by shooting 5 then look at the 6th to see if the bullet has moved.
With some jacketed bullets like the Speer Gold Dot and heavy recoiling calibers it is possible to actually iron a crimp into the cannelure so it looks like a small necked down style hench the name "necked down crimp" coined by speer.
Unless you need it forget about it.
I only crimp enough to hold the bullets under recoil. Remember you can overwork the brass by getting crazy on the crimp. Cases will last longer without over crimping.
Case tension on the bullet is paramount to good ignition.

[Bwana]

Appreciate the additional comments and advice. UPS tried to deliver my new reloading equipment today, but nobody was home. I'll make sure I'm home tomorrow. Can't wait. Just need to pick up some magnum primers since I only bought the regular ones. I'll get CCI since that's what the powder company's data calls for. Here's one more question. How does the handloaded H110 44 magnum with a 250 grain Keith bullet compare to factory Winchester white box mags? Are they about the same? If they are more powerful, I'll use the Unique to load softer magnums and just keep the H110 for my DW 357 or my SBH when I get it (the shop has a 5 1/2 inch stainless SBH that is irresistible....maybe I should try playing the lottery just once).

You mention a DW 357. I assume you speak of a 357 mag and not a 357 Maximum. That being the case you should know that they are about the same as the S&W 19. They are not to be "hot rodded".

[desertwheeler]

Thanks for the additional insights, especially on crimping. Yes, Bwana, I meant the magnum, and I needed to hear what you said.

Family crisis....had to call UPS and postpone delivery of new press. Sigh...

[desertwheeler]

Lee classic turret press arrived today along with carbide dies for 44 and 357. Also the molds to cast. With the order also came a box of bullets for the 44 so I can start reloading. I'm going to start trying to find good sources of wheel weights. With factory bullets, I'm sure they have the hard lube, which isn't the best. Do you leave it on or get it off somehow to put on a better, softer lube?

[desertwheeler]

My press arrived. The powder scale box (inside the bigger box) appeared to be smashed. When I opened it, the scale was severely damaged and broken. I called Cabela's and they're sending me a new one. Didn't even have to send the broken one back. Nice customer service. In the order I got a 500 count box of 44 caliber Oregon Trail Laser Cast Bullets. On the box it says they're guaranteed to not lead the barrel or you get your money back. This way I can start reloading before I get into casting. My molds (for 44 and 357) from Midway also arrived.

[462]

You just may find yourself taking Oregon Trail up on their guarantee. Laser Cast's run about 27 BHN. Wheel weights are about 12 to 15.

[Mike 56]

The guy that sold you H110 does not care about his customers he just wanted to sell the powder he had on hand. Because if he was a re loader he shouldn't of recommended H110 to a guy new to reloading. If he is not a re loader he should not have recommending powder.

When i am helping out guys learning to re load i recommend learning with Trail Boss powder to re load cast bullets in 45 Colt, 45ACP , 38SP and 357 MAG. It is very forgiving, you can't double charge with it and you get some pretty accurate loads.

[stubshaft]

The guy that sold you H110 does not care about his customers he just wanted to sell the powder he had on hand. Because if he was a re loader he shouldn't of recommended H110 to a guy new to reloading. If he is not a re loader he should not have recommending powder.

When i am helping out guys learning to re load i recommend learning with Trail Boss powder to re load cast bullets in 45 Colt, 45ACP , 38SP and 357 MAG. It is very forgiving, you can't double charge with it and you get some pretty accurate loads.

Just because you teach people to reload with TB doesn't mean that 296/110 is a poor choice. I wouldn't be interested in a 357 mag load that does 850fps.

I have used many pounds of 296 in my .357 mag. Mdl 66 with NO ill effects. Are there better powders maybe for cast you can use Unique, Red and Green Dot, 2400 etc. To say that 296/110 is a poor choice for a new reloader makes no sense. In it's usual loads it cannot be double charged and if you do not want to shoot loads at the speed that the cartridge is designed for then that should have been addressed when asking for recommendations.

My model 29 has no damage unusual wear from shooting 296/110 either. Although I have only about 12,000 rounds through it, since I did use a 10" SBH to compete with until I bought my DW 445 SM and used 296/110 in those too.

[Mike 56]

Just because you teach people to reload with TB doesn't mean that 296/110 is a poor choice. I wouldn't be interested in a 357 mag load that does 850fps.

I have used many pounds of 296 in my .357 mag. Mdl 66 with NO ill effects. Are there better powders maybe for cast you can use Unique, Red and Green Dot, 2400 etc. To say that 296/110 is a poor choice for a new reloader makes no sense. In it's usual loads it cannot be double charged and if you do not want to shoot loads at the speed that the cartridge is designed for then that should have been addressed when asking for recommendations.

My model 29 has no damage unusual wear from shooting 296/110 either. Although I have only about 12,000 rounds through it, since I did use a 10" SBH to compete with until I bought my DW 445 SM and used 296/110 in those too.


I agree 296/H110 are good powders and have there place on a loading bench. I just feel that a guy just starting out could get them self in a lot of trouble with them. Even Bullseye and Unique are forgiving on starting loads. A newbe having a mishap with a scale or powder thrower could get into trouble fast with these powders. TB meters very and is pretty full proof just don't compress it. After a person gets some experience and confidence they can move on to these powders. Just starting out there is no need for speed. My GP100 shoots H110 well.

[edward hogan]

I only use Unique or 2400 in the .357magnums I've loaded since 1976.

As mentioned UNQ is THE powder for all-around use, especially to get moderate velocity which is how you're gonna best learn double-action shooting and confidence in your abilities.

I use ww-296, which is same basic powder as H-110, but only in large magnum cases for max power. Really think 110/296 is a large magnum handgun powder. I use it for boolits and J-word in .454 Casull, and only the heaviest loads in .44mag. Have recently bought some Starline .45 Colt brass to use in my Casull. Want to try a mild load in the Ruger Super Redhawk with 345gr cast boolit I use in the Casull brass.

Some guys use fast powders like red-dot or bullseye in .38sp, but there is a danger of double-charging a case. Try that when you have more experience if you must, I like UNQ because no danger of double-charging and it just always behaved just as I expected...

Congrats on taking the plunge! You'll probably never buy factory ammo again, and that's a good thing for you!