Advice on Marlin 336

[fishnbob]

I recently bought a .35 Rem Marlin 336 and it has a Bushnell 3X9 on see thru mounts on it. I would like to rescope it with a new Redfield 2X7 and lower it but how much can I lower it before the rear sight and the hammer becomes a problem? Can someone recommend the correct bases and rings to make this combo work so I don't have to remove the rear sight and have the hammer wedged against the scope. I notice Midsouth has Redfield rings in EXTRA HEIGHT. Is this the way to go? I want it as low as possible for comfortable shootin'. I can't see open sights anymore so the see thru's are worthless.:?:

[357Mag]

Fish -

Howdy !

I myself went with the highest rings I could find, for scoping my M-336 XLR
.35 Rem .

My situation, is that I often " cheek " the gun/comb/butt stock; especially when shooting off a bench.

I too have some eye challenges, so I removed my open sights completely ( rifle not used on live game ).

My base is a Weaver one-piece.

Hammer clearance for me, has been no problem

My point: consider neck/head shooting position, and set ring height based on that.

Regards,
357Mag

[hornsurgeon]

high to extra high depending on the size of the eyepiece on the scope. and a hammer extension is an absolute must for eze of use and safety!

[Crawdaddy]

I went high also with see through scope rings. You get the best of both worlds.

[geargnasher]

I went high also with see through scope rings. You get the best of both worlds.

...provided you can still see irons!

Gear

[JIMinPHX]

I went high also with see through scope rings. You get the best of both worlds.

Those are my thoughts exactly.

[Keyston44]

On my Marlin 336, I use a 3x9x40mm scope with one piece base and high rings. With this combination I fold the rear sight down and need to use a hammer extention. No need to remove the rear sight.

Key

[fishnbob]

I went high also with see through scope rings. You get the best of both worlds.


...provided you can still see irons!

Gear


Those are my thoughts exactly.

Therein lies the problem. I can't see open sights anymore. I have a rear peep on my BP rifle which I no longer use and would like the Williams Rear Peep on the Marlin but my eyes won't cooperate. I don't have bifocals (readers only) but I wonder how they(bifocals) would work with open or peep sights?

[northmn]

When I use a scope I use the scope and do not worry about iron sights. you can mount a scope fairly low but do need a hammer extension. They sell them around and about and some sporting goods stores have them. They come with new Marlins. I have ahd good luck with a Red Dot sight but do not care for the concern about batteries, but they are very effective. Otherwise I adorn my Marlins with low power 1.5 - 4 power variables. You really do not need all the bulk with the larger powered scopes. I could easily get along with a 1X scope.
I just use the standard Weaver one piece base and get by with the less expensive rings. They have been very solid for me. I have found that maintaining tightness is more critical on scope mounts and use lock tight. Sometimes I have to alternate the mounts to provide adjustment, but they all seem to work. With my 270 for several years I shot 2 shots with it using that system. One to see if it was still sighted in and one on a deer.

DP

[JIMinPHX]

Therein lies the problem. I can't see open sights anymore.

Are you far sighted? If you can still see the front sight, but not the rear sight, then you might get around the issue by moving the rear sight up a little. On many of the Marlins, that have the long flat bar between the dovetail & the sight blade, you can simply knock the rear sight out of its dovetail & install it backwards to move the rear sight up a few inches.

[Mk42gunner]

fishnbob,

I too recently acquired a Marlin 336CS in .35 Remington. Mine had a bushnell 4X in Holden see through mounts. I don't like the see through mounts, it looks too easy for something to get bent.

I replaced them with a Weaver 63 base, (it has a milled trough so you can use the iron sights after taking the scope off) Weaver medium 4x4 rings from Walmart and a Leupold VX-II 1-4X. There is about a 1/4" clearence between the hammer extension and the scope bell so I could go with low rings; but my scope has a 20mm objective with no bell, not sure about the one you want to use. The medium rings look like there would be plenty of clearance for a 32mm objective.

I am impressed with the accuracy of mine, a six shot group (two three shot groups), at fifty yards that could be covered by a quarter. RP brass, WLR primer, a healthy dose of H335 and a 200 gr Hornady RN J-word, (I should get my mold and H&I die nexr month). It also feeds slicker than any other centerfire leveraction that I have been around.

The load above does recoil more than a typical .30-30, but a heavier projectile at comparable speeds from the same gun makes that understandable.

Not so impressed with the trigger, 5 1/4 pounds on the scale. I will be attending to that shortly.

Robert

[fishnbob]

fishnbob,

I too recently acquired a Marlin 336CS in .35 Remington. Mine had a bushnell 4X in Holden see through mounts. I don't like the see through mounts, it looks too easy for something to get bent.

I replaced them with a Weaver 63 base, (it has a milled trough so you can use the iron sights after taking the scope off) Weaver medium 4x4 rings from Walmart and a Leupold VX-II 1-4X. There is about a 1/4" clearence between the hammer extension and the scope bell so I could go with low rings; but my scope has a 20mm objective with no bell, not sure about the one you want to use. The medium rings look like there would be plenty of clearance for a 32mm objective.

I am impressed with the accuracy of mine, a six shot group (two three shot groups), at fifty yards that could be covered by a quarter. RP brass, WLR primer, a healthy dose of H335 and a 200 gr Hornady RN J-word, (I should get my mold and H&I die nexr month). It also feeds slicker than any other centerfire leveraction that I have been around.

The load above does recoil more than a typical .30-30, but a heavier projectile at comparable speeds from the same gun makes that understandable.

Not so impressed with the trigger, 5 1/4 pounds on the scale. I will be attending to that shortly.

Robert

Thanks for the info. I ordered a 1 pc Weaver base and Weaver high rings to go on a Redfield Revolution scope. It is 2-7 power with a 33 mm objective. I hope it fits. It sounds like yours shoots accurately. And my 35 does kick the snot outta me! I will look into a recoil pad, maybe a Limbsaver.

[fishnbob]

Are you far sighted? If you can still see the front sight, but not the rear sight, then you might get around the issue by moving the rear sight up a little. On many of the Marlins, that have the long flat bar between the dovetail & the sight blade, you can simply knock the rear sight out of its dovetail & install it backwards to move the rear sight up a few inches.

Yes Jim, I am farsighted and can see the front sight ok. I'll take a look and see if mine can be switched around. I might try a 'Williams Peep' as I have one of those on my BP rifle and I painted a red dot on the front sight and can see that ok. Thanks for the advice.
Bobby[smilie=s:

[2ndAmendmentNut]

I no longer have my 336 but when I did I had a Leupold Scout Scope on it attached with quick-release rings and a Williams rear peep sight. Was a great set up, could take the scope off and put it back on and would still hold a perfect zero at least as far as I could tell at 100yards.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
My first Marlin had a set of the Tip-off scope bases on it. That was a nice rig. Used it fox hunting in SW Michigan. Once had a fox walk up a creek bed within 12 feet of me & that tip of was sure easy to roll off to the left side and level that Marlin with the irons.
Mike in Peru

[EdS]

Maybe it's just me, but scopes just "don't look right" on lever action rifles. I too have trouble aligning an open rear sight with a front sight and target. So, my lever actions all wear peep (receiver) rear sights that you look *through*, not look at. I also change the bead front sights to flat-top post sights. With this combination (should sound very familiar to many military rifle shooters) I can hold almost as small groups as the rifle is cabable with using a hunting power scope. Good Shooting, Ed

[popper]

I have the 3x9 40 on my 336, low rings and NO hammer extension. Not a problem for me. It came with high see-thru but I dumped them - reduces the parallax problem and I can't see both sights with my eyes anyway.

[fishnbob]

Maybe it's just me, but scopes just "don't look right" on lever action rifles.

I have to agree with you Ed, it doesn't look right and it takes the rifle out of balance.

[QUOTE=popper;1466199]I have the 3x9 40 on my 336, low rings and NO hammer extension. Not a problem for me. It came with high see-thru but I dumped them - reduces the parallax problem and I can't see both sights with my eyes anyway.

I didn't think low rings would work at all, just by looking at my rifle. I didn't think it would clear the hammer or the rear sight, which I guess you could remove. I ordered a scope with rings & bases from Cabela's and I have had a peep sight on my "Wish List" for a coupla months while mulling it over. I can use the scope on something else if I change my mind on the rear peep. I kinda like that idea. I remember shootin' that BP gun with a rear peep and I could hit a paper plate every time at a 100 yds. That's all I need it to do. I have heavy barreled rifles for the eyeball size targets.

[izzyjoe]

low rings will work, i have that very same scope on my marlin, and i do have a hammer ext. but you must remove the rear sight, mine was already filled with a blank cause i had a peep sight on it. i used a weaver 63b base, and a set of weaver top mount low rings. i put the hammer ext. on the right side, it seems to work better on that side. but i did have to take a dremmel tool to the base cause the scope power ring would hit the rear of the base. but i did'nt take much off the base, maybe .020 thousands. but it turned out real nice, i like my scopes as low possible. it points very well, and i can pick up targets very fast.

[Mk42gunner]

izzyjoe, I cut my base between the rear holes to get clearance for a Williams 5D sight under the scope on my .30-30, (I robbed the base for the new .35 Rem). {Everybody knows you have to take a new rifle hunting, right?} I still have three screws holding the base to the rifle, but dont remember if I had to cut a new groove for the crossbolt on the rings or not. In any case the base ends even with the back of the rear ring.

I like receiver sights a lot better than open sights, especially on lever actions; but a good scope will buy you a few extra minutes at dawn and dusk, especially in the brush. Eventually this 336CS wil get a good, easily adjustable receiver sight and flat topped post front, I just didn't have time before deer season this year to order one. Then the scope can go back on my squirrel rifle, where it belongs.

Robert

[fishnbob]

Now that I have the scope issue settled it's time for another question. The reloads that I tried were using once fired factory brass, shot in this rifle. I used a cast boolit from a 36-175 R Accurate mold from Tom. The rifle slugged .357" and the boolits were sized and mic checked @ .358. Loaded with 35grs of 3031 and seated @ 2.355" OAL. They were HARD to chamber. It was really tight the last 1/2" of the lever. I ejected the boolit and looked to see where the drag came from but saw nothing. All 6 of my test boolits were hard to chamber but didn't show any marks anywhere on the cast boolit or the brass. All other reloads with jacketed bullets chambered fine. I did use the Lee FCD to crimp them after they were seated with the seating die. Any problems here? What should I do now? Reload some more and mic the necks and anything else I can think of?

[2ndAmendmentNut]

They were HARD to chamber.

By any chance is this an XLR model?

[popper]

Hard boolits will resize the brass. Check neck outside dia. Did you flare and not crimp to remove the flare?

[katch1]

if you mount a redfield 2-7 on a marlin, mine is a 95, which should be almost the same you will need a hammer extension, and remove the elevator steps for the rear sight to install the scope.
this still leaves me a little high on the scope installation, i have a skinny face.

[Mk42gunner]

Now that I have the scope issue settled it's time for another question. The reloads that I tried were using once fired factory brass, shot in this rifle. I used a cast boolit from a 36-175 R Accurate mold from Tom. The rifle slugged .357" and the boolits were sized and mic checked @ .358. Loaded with 35grs of 3031 and seated @ 2.355" OAL. They were HARD to chamber. It was really tight the last 1/2" of the lever. I ejected the boolit and looked to see where the drag came from but saw nothing. All 6 of my test boolits were hard to chamber but didn't show any marks anywhere on the cast boolit or the brass. All other reloads with jacketed bullets chambered fine. I did use the Lee FCD to crimp them after they were seated with the seating die. Any problems here? What should I do now? Reload some more and mic the necks and anything else I can think of?

Did you full length, neck size, or partial full length size?

Make up a dummy round with no powder or primer, checking things with live rounds is an accident waiting to happen.

First, I would see if an empty unprimed but resized case will chamber freely. If it does then seat a boolit and roll crimp it with the seating die. If that works,then you can try the factory crimp die.

One thing that felix has recommended several times is to use a majic marker on the neck to check for clearance, you can do this on the whole case to see just where the tight spot is. If you use a dummy round, you could also smoke it with a candle or lighter (please don't try to smke a round that has powder or primer in it).

One recurring theme I have found on internet threads about reloading the .35 Rem is that many of them have short throats, check your boolit closely to see if it is engaging the rifling.

Robert

[fishnbob]

By any chance is this an XLR model?
No, it's not an XLR model. It is a pre-safety model,one of the older ones.


Hard boolits will resize the brass. Check neck outside dia. Did you flare and not crimp to remove the flare?
Yes I flared the mouth and I crimped it with a Lee FCD.


Did you full length, neck size, or partial full length size.

Make up a dummy round with no powder or primer, checking things with live rounds is an accident waiting to happen.

First, I would see if an empty unprimed but resized case will chamber freely. If it does then seat a boolit and roll crimp it with the seating die. If that works,then you can try the factory crimp die.

One thing that felix has recommended several times is to use a majic marker on the neck to check for clearance, you can do this on the whole case to see just where the tight spot is. If you use a dummy round, you could also smoke it with a candle or lighter (please don't try to smke a round that has powder or primer in it).

One recurring theme I have found on internet threads about reloading the .35 Rem is that many of them have short throats, check your boolit closely to see if it is engaging the rifling.

Robert

Thanks for the help. I did full length resize. As tight as it was to chamber, I thought I would see marks on the case or boolit, but didn't. I'll make up a dummy and see what turns up. I usually make 1 of those anyway for each boolit style to be able to reset seating dies to the right depth for that boolit. Your last comment about internet threads & short throats struck a note but then I realized I am .20" shorter than the OAL for the 200gr factory, and no marks on the CB.

[2ndAmendmentNut]

I asked if it was an XLR because mine was and all the XLRs are built around that new flex tip ammo and the chambers all seem to have very short throats (at least all the XLRs I have come across) I had my chamber re-cut for about $50 and the problem went away.

[Canuck Bob]

I scoped my 444, same action, with simple weaver base and low rings for my Leupold 2.5X Ultralite scope. I found the low position really felt natural. Of course that scope has a straight forward tube. A hammer extension is a requirement once scoped in my experience.

[fishnbob]

I scoped my 444, same action, with simple weaver base and low rings for my Leupold 2.5X Ultralite scope. I found the low position really felt natural. Of course that scope has a straight forward tube. A hammer extension is a requirement once scoped in my experience.

Mine already had the hammer extension so that worked out ok. I got the scope and rings and put everything on. I also got the 63B 1-pc base and everything worked out fine. I have about a 1/4" clearance from the scope bell and the rear sight which is good. As soon as I find out why it is hard to chamber my cast boolits reloads, I will do some sighting in and reload development. Thanks for all your help & advice.

[popper]

Check a resized case only. Check neck O.D. of jacketed vs CB rounds. You may need to neck-turn to get the case to fit due to larger CB bullet size.

[TXGunNut]

Scopes may not look right on a levergun but with my 52 year-old bifocal-needing eyes I'll never get the accuracy my Marlins are capable of without glass, and it'll be mounted to Weaver bases with Burris Z-Rings. My Winchesters can get by with peeps, they're short-range toys that never seem to get uncased on a serious hunt.
See-thrus are for folks who don't trust their glass. If I don't trust my glass it won't be on my rifle. Buckhorn sights are pretty much useless to me now, I keep a Marble sight blank in my parts box in case I come across a Marlin or a Winchester with a rear sight I can't use.

[northmn]

Scopes may not look right on a levergun but with my 52 year-old bifocal-needing eyes I'll never get the accuracy my Marlins are capable of without glass, and it'll be mounted to Weaver bases with Burris Z-Rings. My Winchesters can get by with peeps, they're short-range toys that never seem to get uncased on a serious hunt.
See-thrus are for folks who don't trust their glass. If I don't trust my glass it won't be on my rifle. Buckhorn sights are pretty much useless to me now, I keep a Marble sight blank in my parts box in case I come across a Marlin or a Winchester with a rear sight I can't use.

Cant say it better. I had a pivot mount for years on a rifle and replaced it with a stronger fixed mount as I do not think I ever shot a deer with iron sights with that rifle. A very low powered scope is just as fast as iron anyway.
As far as hard chambering cases, I went through that with my 38-55 and had to go to Starline brass wihich has a thinner neck. You probably are trying to load too large a bullet. Sometimes the nose does not fit into the rifling or is very tight. I had a 180 grain 30 cal mold that would not work in some rifles.

DP

[fishnbob]

As far as hard chambering cases, I went through that with my 38-55 and had to go to Starline brass wihich has a thinner neck. You probably are trying to load too large a bullet. Sometimes the nose does not fit into the rifling or is very tight. I had a 180 grain 30 cal mold that would not work in some rifles.

DP

I found the problem. The ogive of the cast boolit is larger than the factory J-bullets which are tapered from the case mouth, to fit the chamber. I have to seat the cast boolits a little deeper to gain clearance. It took me a while to find the marki on the boolit.
While trying to sight in, I noticed the recoil was driving the scope back. It covered up the numbers on the variable scope. It is Weaver 1" Rings Detachable Bases and I tightened it up until I nearly wrung the screw heads and it still is moving back with each shot. What do I do now? In 50+ years of using scopes, I never had that problem. The instructions says to use a modern adhesive in case of heavy recoil. What do y'all suggest?:violin:

[Mk42gunner]

I like to use powdered rosin on just about any scope and rings that I mount on a rifle. Since I started using rosin, I haven't had a scope slip.

Robert

[fishnbob]

I like to use powdered rosin on just about any scope and rings that I mount on a rifle. Since I started using rosin, I haven't had a scope slip.

Robert

I just looked at my rifle again and it looks like the rings are screwed all the way down. It's like the rings are a little too big or the scope tube is a little too small. In other words there is no visable gap where the screws have closed the ring. Do they make any kind of material to wrap around the tube so you can tighten the ring on the scope tube? All other rings that I have like these have about a 1/32" gap and I usually use this as a guide to make sure I have the two screws torqued about the same.

[35remington]

Go to your hardware store, or go to Menard's or Home Depot and order Scotch Kote, which is a paint on rubber adhesive that drys to a rubbery, yielding finish. A thin layer on the rings will prevent all scope slippage.

http://www.paigewire.com/pdf/3Mscotchkote.pdf

The problem with super sized scopes and high mounts are twofold:

First, the rifle is small, and a huge scope increases its weight and bulk disproportionately, messing up its handling to a large degree. The advantage a lever of this type with an oversized scope has over a short action bolt carbine is nonexistent.

Second, the gun's comb is low, because it is stocked for iron sights. Get a good cheek weld with your eyes closed. Now open them. What are you looking at? Well, the scope mounts and no higher. Notice the stretch needed to see through a scope.....any scope.

Quite frankly, any scope whatsoever is too high for a 336's stocking. If you must have one, mount it low, and avail yourself of an offset hammer spur if needed.

Failing that, find and employ a lace on cheek piece. Yes, it adds weight, but the weight thing got thrown out the window when the scope was mounted in the first place, and with any ring height. At least with the lace on cheek piece you'll be more solidly behind the rifle instead of doing an impression of an ostrich.

The idea is to work with the rifle's limitations rather than throwing them completely out the window. Big scopes and low stock combs do just that.

[fishnbob]

[QUOTE=35remington;1477469]Go to your hardware store, or go to Menard's or Home Depot and order Scotch Kote, which is a paint on rubber adhesive that drys to a rubbery, yielding finish. A thin layer on the rings will prevent all scope slippage.

Thanks, 35remington. That sounds like a winner. I removed a Bushnell 3x9x40mm with see through mounts because of weight & bulky features as well as "ostrich neck" sighting and installed a new Redfield 2x7x33mm and Weaver Detacable base to get the scope as low as possible without removing the rear sight. This short, lightweight scope helped the balance. In some cases I want to remove the scope and use the open sights. The original setup was tight and showed no recoil slippage but the new setup is as tight as it will go as there is no more adjustment left in the rings. If this Scotch Kote will give me a few thousandths buildup, the rings should gain some clamping space. BTW, if I were to lap the rings as some advise, the scope would fall out, I'm afraid. LOL!:-?

[northmn]

There is also thin strips of Gorilla tape inside the rings. The black stuff is hardly noticable unless you look.

DP

[Naphtali]

I recently bought a .35 Rem Marlin 336 and it has a Bushnell 3X9 on see thru mounts on it. I would like to rescope it with a new Redfield 2X7 and lower it but how much can I lower it before the rear sight and the hammer becomes a problem? Can someone recommend the correct bases and rings to make this combo work so I don't have to remove the rear sight and have the hammer wedged against the scope. I notice Midsouth has Redfield rings in EXTRA HEIGHT. Is this the way to go? I want it as low as possible for comfortable shootin'. I can't see open sights anymore so the see thru's are worthless.:?:On both of my 1895s, customized by Grizzly Custom Guns, I have Burris Euro Diamond 1-4x24 mm scopes (30 mm basis tubes) mounted via Warne Maxima [Low] Q-D mount-rings sets. I used my primary 1895 one season without a hammer spur. Both now have them. This nearly zero cost device eliminates any difficulty manipulating hammers when using such low-mounted telescopic sights. Parenthetically, back-up sights on each is Marble's tang sight.

Hope this helps.

[Centaur 1]

Thanks for the info. I ordered a 1 pc Weaver base and Weaver high rings to go on a Redfield Revolution scope. It is 2-7 power with a 33 mm objective. I hope it fits. It sounds like yours shoots accurately. And my 35 does kick the snot outta me! I will look into a recoil pad, maybe a Limbsaver.

I also like to mount the scopeas low as possible, and I hate see thru mounts. You might be able to see through them at the bench, but there are too many things obstructing your view to use them in a hunting situation. I have a Bushnell elite 3200 2-7x32mm scope, weaver style mounts, and low rings. My scope clears the rear sight just fine.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk248/mlschmall/scopeclearance1.jpg

[TXGunNut]

Backup sights? They're on my backup rifle.:mrgreen:

[fishnbob]

There is also thin strips of Gorilla tape inside the rings. The black stuff is hardly noticable unless you look.

DP

I put some inside the rings and the gap between the top ring and the base part where you insert the screws was so wide that I couldn't get the screws started. I removed the tape from the top ring and left the strip in the bottom. I'll try that and see if it holds. I think I'm going to need the "Powdered Resin" treatment but I can't find any of that local. I guess I could put some glue on it but I hate to do that in case I want to remove it. About one more roadblock and I'm gonna pull the scope off and put it on another rifle and order me a Williams Rear Peep! ;-)

[fishnbob]

I put some inside the rings and the gap between the top ring and the base part where you insert the screws was so wide that I couldn't get the screws started. I removed the tape from the top ring and left the strip in the bottom. I'll try that and see if it holds. I think I'm going to need the "Powdered Resin" treatment but I can't find any of that local. I guess I could put some glue on it but I hate to do that in case I want to remove it. About one more roadblock and I'm gonna pull the scope off and put it on another rifle and order me a Williams Rear Peep! ;-)

I finally pulled those *** Weaver Rings off and reinstalled another set of rings that I had on hand. Took it to my shootin' bench and rattled off some Remington 200 gr. PSP's until the barrel was so hot you couldn't touch it. Went back to the shop and measured the scope location that I had marked and VOILA', no movement. I oughta send the rings back to Weaver and tell them where they can put them but I can use them to mount stuff on my DPMS AR. ;)