rookie Lee Loader question for 38s

[afweinie]

I have S&W M66. I picked up a Lee loader for .357 Mag and I'm trying to reload some plinking rounds with some nickel plated brass in 38 Special, Win small pistol primers, 110gr Win JHPs, and some Bullseye.

Where I'm running into complications is that while trying to set the bullet to the specified depth for an OAL of 1.455" the cannelure on the bullet is nowhere close to being seated to the case mouth(the shape of the bullet seater is disfiguring the tip of the bullet slightly, but nothing extensive, and they are only plinking rounds). I don't want to do something unsafe, but can I just seat the bullet to the cannelure here? Am I making way too much of this? (I knew I should have bought those HBWCs)

SO far I have 2 loading manuals... the Lee one and the Hornady manual.
I have a powder scale from Lee to weigh the charges, and a set of powder scoops for when they are compatible with the specified powder.

Appreciate any help rendered... if I forgot to mention some critical piece of info let me know.

I really like the forum and yes, hopefully, one day I will graduate to Boolits!

[MBTcustom]

OAL does not matter on a revolver very much. The manual is only stating that it cant be any longer than that. You are only shooting 110 grains in a cartridge that will take a 200 grain slug easily. Remember your gun was made to shoot .38 special also, so obviously OAL is a mute point, except that there is a maximum length before you get into the cylinder throats. I would stuff that puppy in there up to the canelure myself.
.357/.38SP is one round I have a lot of experience with. I always shoot .38sp in my gun for plinking, because I have lots of .38 brass and I dont need to blow the doors off to hit a tin can, and because powder is precious. My guns favorite load is a 200gr rn slug in a .38sp case. feels like shooting a 45acp.......poom!......thunk! and I can make cokecans dance @ 60 yards with my beloved model 19.
A S&W pistol is capable of superb accuracy at extreme distances, my dad has a mod 27 and could easily ring a 6" gong at 100 yards with it.
Seriously, you need to get a mold for that gun, your gonna go broke shooting those copper bills. If I was starting out with a .357/.38 I would go buy an RCBS 35/200 GC mold. Its a rifle mold but pistols love it too. Its one of those inherently accurate boolit designs. Shooting that slug w/gas checks will allow you to get amazing performance out of your gun and incredible knockdown power if you ever go hunting with it. Also that mold is the cats meow for any .35 caliber rifle (another good investment, by the way.)
Good luck!

[Moonman]

goodsteel is right,

Get some stuff to load and shoot 38 Special.

Nickle cases are more brittle and their service life of reloading is not as long as Just Brass Cases.

If the nose of the bullet is getting deformed, look at the die for seating the bullet, the bullet seating die usually has a piece inside that has a CONCAVE round end for seating round nose bullets and its other end is FLAT for seating flat nosed bullets.

Casting Bullets lowers your costs even more. (Jacketed Bullets are expensive).

Buy cast bullets from some good reputable places until you start to cast, (Penn Bullets, Oregon Trail Laser Cast, Missouri Bullets) are a few places to give a look to.

Good Luck and Good Shooting.:lovebooli

[afweinie]

Thank you for setting me straight on that... time to load some plinking rounds!

I had about 500 rounds of vintage (to me) early 80s/late 70s Winchester ammo given to me for FREE. About half of it was 158 LRN and the rest is 125 JHP (+P). So I am mostly using nickel because it is free... My understanding is that is a very popular theme around these parts:mrgreen:

I must confess that I bought this nice old model 66 for my wife, but she still has not shot it yet. That is why I choose the lighter bullets, to leep the recoil to a minimum. I do have a few pieces of .357 Mag brass that will probably see some of the 110s too.

Goodsteel, it is kind of funny you mention the 35 rifle calibers, because up until recently I had my heart set on a .35 Whelen. Problem is no one is making one in a bolt gun currently and I want to reload so I can actually afford to shoot it. The 750 Woodsmaster looks pretty cool, but I'm not sure how reliable it is, and I'm definately not set up to reload for a semi-auto. The other most economical option as I see it would be to find one used or pick up an inexpensive Savage/Stevens in 06/270 etc... and have it rebarreled.

So, lately I have shifted my interest to the .375s instead.

[AZ Pete]

For .357 loads you should stick to 158 g. bullets or heavier. The forcing cone on a 66 or 19 doesn't do well with .357 rounds shooting lighter bullets (125 g. and lighter). The 66 is a fine revolver, no reason to risk cracking the forcing cone with full house .357 loads shooting light bullets.

The model 19 and 66 revolvers had little problems until the popularity of the 125 g. .357 load come out. Then they began to have problems with cracked forcing cones. Stick with 158 g. bullets for .357 loads and you will enjoy a long life with your 66.

I don't think you will have any problems with the revolver and light bullets at .38 Spl. velocities though.

[afweinie]

I was unaware there were any problems like that... no big deal. I sure don't want to tear it up. It is a nice original 66... not a -1, -2 etc. Fantastic triggerand has been Magnaported too.

[Suo Gan]

find one used or pick up an inexpensive Savage/Stevens in 06/270 etc... and have it rebarreled.


Or rebored. http://www.35caliber.com/8.html I think it is $175 you pay shipping he ships back for that price.

[handyman25]

Remington made a M700 in 35 Whelen.

[JesterGrin_1]

Or rebored. http://www.35caliber.com/8.html I think it is $175 you pay shipping he ships back for that price.

It is $225.00 for a 3 Groove return shipping included.

[afweinie]

I wound up picking up a 20" black .375 Alaskan off of Gunbroker for $660+shipping & transfer fees. [smilie=w:

[.357MAN]

Correct me if I'm wrong. I thought guns that are ported spit lead with cast, and have bad accuracy.

.357MAN

[DLCTEX]

No problems with lead spitting or accuracy in ported Guide Gun in 45-70 and Tarus 480 Ruger pistol using cast.

[MBTcustom]

When it comes to cast boolits, "believe none of what you hear and only half of what you see." To quote my grandma.
If I had a dollar for every old wives tale that is based on feelings and beliefs about cast boolits, I could get a new Dillon press and all the doodads.
The ports are one, but did you know:
You cant shoot cast lead in a Glock?
leaded barrels are caused by lead being "rubbed" off the boolits like chalk, as they fly through the barrel?
Lead boolits cause dangerous pressures and wear out barrels faster?
You and anybody you touch, will die a horrible screaming death if you cast lead without a haz-mat suite on?
How do these rumors get started without any kind of fact to back them up?

[afweinie]

I appreciate the advice with my reloading conundrums, I will probably be back shortly since I'm starting to tool up for my new 375 Ruger Alaskan:happy dance:

[MBTcustom]

Never heard of it but it sounds bada$$.

[afweinie]

http://data.ruger.com/hawkeye375/Alaskan.html

http://www.rifleshootermag.com/2010/09/23/featured_rifles_rs_ruger375alaskan_200906/

http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_ruger375_080807/

A few minutes of good reading.

[jdgabbard]

When it comes to cast boolits, "believe none of what you hear and only half of what you see." To quote my grandma.
If I had a dollar for every old wives tale that is based on feelings and beliefs about cast boolits, I could get a new Dillon press and all the doodads.
The ports are one, but did you know:
You cant shoot cast lead in a Glock?
leaded barrels are caused by lead being "rubbed" off the boolits like chalk, as they fly through the barrel?
Lead boolits cause dangerous pressures and wear out barrels faster?
You and anybody you touch, will die a horrible screaming death if you cast lead without a haz-mat suite on?
How do these rumors get started without any kind of fact to back them up?

They get started by the majority of the guys spreading the rumors being legally retarded. I myself sometimes wonder what is up with all the nay saying. It seems that somebody says something online, and before you know it, whether they're a credible source or not, it sticks like glue.

[mdi]

Some folks just have to be important and appoint themselves "experts". Prolly lacking in self esteem or some other area...

[GT27]

This is where I used to buy them before I started casting, best quality, and price I could find!Thanks to the knowledgeable gents and ladies on here, I now "roll my own"!!:drinks::castmine:

http://castbullets.org/