10mm Shot Shells

[harley45]

Anyone ever make any or have any advice on making some?
Thanks

[subsonic]

I have never made any, but There are a few methods for making handgun shotshells that you can try.

First, are you using them in a semi auto or a revolver? Because the revolver will be a little more forgiving. No feeding or ejection required and I doubt you can make a load that cycles the action on an auto.

Basically, you use a powder charge for the weight of bullet that matches your weight of shot. Try for 650-750fps. Use cardboard wads or gas checks over and under the shot and crimp the top wad and/or glue it.

You may be able to use .38 shot capsules by crimpin heavy, using wax or tape to make them bigger, or by running your 10mm brass into a .357 sig sizer die.

A close examination of factory shotshells for auto cartridges might be enlightening.

Do this at your own risk if it' an auto, but *I* would try some .40s&w shotshells in the gun and see what happens.

Good luck an let us know what happens.

[HammerMTB]

Do this at your own risk if it' an auto, but *I* would try some .40s&w shotshells in the gun and see what happens.

Good luck an let us know what happens.

All my 10MM autos have run 40S&W very well. I've never tried shot shells, but other than not cycling don't see why not.

[sqlbullet]

I am glad HammerMTB has had good luck, but I would caution against running 40S&W in a 10mm..

http://www.thegunzone.com/10v40.html

The stand off distance can create some real issues if your extractor doesn't hold the rim tight. Most won't. The Springfield Omega is the only 10mm Auto I am aware of that is considered "safe" to run both cartridges in.

A revolver with moon clips would obviously be fine.

The other issue I see with rolling your own without using shotshell cups is the crimp. Since the 10mm headspaces on the case mouth, you should not use a roll crimp. But, to retain a carboard wad, you need a roll crimp. This may work fine for a person or two, but it is not recommended.

I think your best bet might be to get some 10mm magnum brass and try running it into a 357 sig die part way to create a "nose" with the shoulder at the right distance to equate to the mouth of a regular 10mm shell.This could be loaded and the mouth roll-crimped over a wad. The CCI 40S&W shotshells (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/349043/cci-shotshell-ammunition-40-s-and-w-88-grains-9-shot-box-of-10) appear to be constructed this way using 10mm auto brass.

[harley45]

This is what I'm thinking, I'll use 10mm magnum brass size a nose with a 357 sig die, for shot wads I'll use pat marlin's 35 cal check maker and then use a 38 special die to roll crimp. Sound good?

[subsonic]

You probably will not be able to use the .38 die to roll crimp unless you grind it shorter.

[harley45]

Wonder what I could use

[subsonic]

You can probably fin a cheap used crimp die and just grind or cut it shorter.

[JayinAZ]

.38 S&W die?

[subsonic]

.38 S&W die?

Good luck finding that, and probably still too deep.

Could try a die set to make blanks that give the star crimp, but again, not easy to fimd and you'd need 10mm mag brass.

[subsonic]

You might be able to lop off 6.8SPC brass too....

[thegreatdane]

bump for fresh ideas!

Does anyone have another suggestions?

[Mk42gunner]

When I made my .45 ACP shotshells, I crimped the overshot gascheck in place by using a C-H .38 Special taper crimp die. The bottom of the die has enough angle to squeeze the mouth into the gascheck, and the round isn't going in the die anyway.

I ran the ram up all the way then screwed the die down to touch, and adjusted it from there. It doesn't take a lot of contact to crimp the case mouth.

I also think necking the case in a .357 SIG die would be too much downsizing, but I don't have any idea what commonly available die would work. Maybe if you had an old no longer necessary .38-55 die, you could cut it down to neck size????

Robert

What about running the long case (before priming) into a .400" boolit sizing die in your lubrisizer to neck it down?

R

[mellonhead]

I think you are on the right track with the 357 Sig dies. You could use 6.8 SPC brass or any of the old Remington rounds. 25, 30, 32 Remington. You could even set your dies so they locate on the shoulder and you would not have to worry about clips. I'm assuming this is for a revolver.

Toby

[Reload3006]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBTMWI9tOVc