What oil to protect a press?

[ShinyPartsUp]

I am a noobe to reloading. I just mounted my Lee Cast single stage press on my bench and re-read the instructions. It says to use a light oil on the ram, linkage and all moving parts.

What oil do folks use? Should I run a film of oil on it new or can it go a while before cleaning and oiling? How often do folks clean and oil?

TIA

[3006guns]

Welcome to the forum!

Believe it or not, 30wt. hydraulic oil (not engine or tranmission) is what I use. Wait, before you start laughing, hydraulic oil is the closest to the "machine oils" used on machine tools back in the 1920's and 1930's, so I use it on my shop tools also. It's clean, pure and contains no uneccesary additives to gum up the works. If you go to a tractor shop or auto rebuild shop they'll likely give you a small bottle for free.

Ordinary gun oil would work also. Whatever oil you choose, it should be light bodied and clear...and yes, I'd oil it right away. Start it off right!

I usually oil the pivoting points and ram on my presses whenever I feel they're getting dry, a matter of personal choice really. I oil the surface of the ram, operate it up and down a few times then wipe off the accumulated crud and reoil...just a few drops that spread out. The result is a nice, slick operating press that never sees rust. Be sure to wipe any excess off, especially around any priming mechanism.

[Bret4207]

I still like good old reliable Break-Free CLP. It simply works, and that's what I want.

[cbrick]

Welcome to CastBoolits ShinyPartsUp,

I'm with 3006guns and Bret.

I lube as 3006guns and use Break-Free like Bret. The difference is that I remove the ram and linkage parts whenever it appears to be getting dry, clean the press and parts with bore cleaner and then re-oil. Primer residue accumulates over time in all these areas which is pretty gritty so I keep it clean as well as oiled.

Rick

[ShinyPartsUp]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have break free at hand so I'll likely use that for now. I am friends with the mechanics at a local John Deer/ Suzuki shop (they are giving me wheel weights for free for when I start casting eventually). I'll check out the hydraulic oil too. Shame I just got the press together and looking like a press -- but no worse taking it apart than after finding a screw when buttoning up a motorcycle, lol.

[timkelley]

Get the wheel weights from the guys now, they don't go bad and they take up little room. Every wheel weight you don't take now will just be gone when you need it later.:p

[ShinyPartsUp]

Get the wheel weights from the guys now, they don't go bad and they take up little room. Every wheel weight you don't take now will just be gone when you need it later.:p

I hear you. Most are stick on weights for motorcycles, but some are really big -- maybe for tractors? I didn't think they balanced tractor tires. But I got my first load of 10 lbs. and said I'd come back every couple weeks for more. They were glad to ditch them. Some rainy day I'll start sorting out the Zinc ones. :drinks:

This is a new hobby/passion and I'm truly starting to enjoy it. :drinks:

After work I'm going to oil the press, and I'm looking forward to it. Gotta do something while I wait for my new ultrasonic cleaner to clean brass anyway. Much better than falling asleep in the man-chair watching the boob tube.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Light oil is what is used on sewing machines. Any sewing machine shop has it. It is really light so would have to be used more often. It also costs more. I prefer 3 in 1 which seems to be (somewhat heavier)just right. Oil is always cheaper than metal as the saying goes, so when in doubt....oil it. Many other oils can probably be used successfully. Any oil that is thicker/heavier grade can be "cut" with a little kerosene. I have done that with chain saw bar oil and it worked. LLS

[corvette8n]

+1 on CLP

[downwind]

Welcome to reloading and boolit casting!!!!!!

I like Marvel Mystery oil

Works good and smells nice!

I apply, work press a few cycles then wipe off excess.

DOWNWIND[smilie=w:

[GabbyM]

I like to use grease on the rams and any other parts I can get it into.

[1Shirt]

I have always just used 3 in 1. It is one of those things that work so I haven't fixed it. Nothing against all of the other suggestions however.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[kmag]

Dillon reccoments to use only 30 wt. on their presses. Filled me a small bottle with the 30 wt. non-detergent that I use in my lawn mowers. Have used it on all my presses for about 20 yrs. I have about all types of oil including the synthetics, but the 30. wt works for me.

[shotman]

the 2 cyl oil that goes in the gas mix {bull plate} works and it dont get gummy . Just dont soak the parts . Light coat is good

[ShinyPartsUp]

Well it's comforting to know there are so many oils being used and nobody's balls have fallen off. ;-)

I couldn't find my break free so I put a light coat of RemOil on the mpving parts for now. The ram and other parts' operation smoothed out noticeably. I then decapped 50 pieces of brass in prep. for an ultrasonic bath. Thanks to all and I hope other reloading virgins find this thread in the future. I'm sure they would find it helpful and comforting. I appreciate all the responses.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I have been using Dillon Case lube for my rust preventative and lube for my Rockchuck ram.

It is Lanolin mixed with alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates (5min) you have a nice film on everything. I use it on my dies also, and especially on Lee dies as they will rust if you touch them.

Randy

[bruce drake]

Chainsaw bar oil lubricant has been my lube of choice for my Press for the last 10 years. I always place a fresh coat on every six months or so and the press has been super smooth ever since I started using it.

The same oil works great with a Lee Sizing die to resize jacketed bullets down a few thousandths as well. I do it for resizing .310/.311 bullets for my .308 caliber rifles as well as .270 bullets to .268 for my 6.5 Jap rifles.

Bruce

[ShinyPartsUp]

I have been using Dillon Case lube for my rust preventative and lube for my Rockchuck ram.

It is Lanolin mixed with alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates (5min) you have a nice film on everything. I use it on my dies also, and especially on Lee dies as they will rust if you touch them.
Randy


I hadn't heard Lee dies were more prone to rusting than others. Is this the older steel dies or the newer carbide as well?

[Bullet Caster]

Welcome aboard ShinyPartsUp,
I am also new to casting and reloading. I also would like to know if carbide dies need oil. While I have 2 casting sessions under my belt, I haven't reloaded any brass as of yet. Savin' up for powder & primers.
I do know that citric acid will work on brass, and works well. You'll have to research the threads posted on this cleaner for brass. My press has not needed any oil yet, since it has only been used to decap and size what cases I have. Still waitin' to buy some .45 acp dies so I can get my brass prepped. As of yet I haven't had the funds available for a tumbler for cleaning brass. I'm trying to do everything on a shoestring budget since I'm a disabled Vietnam vet and don't have a job. Hope everything works out for you; this a great hobby and you'll find some good information on this forum if you just take some time a look around the site. Also please be advised that there is a great chatroom you can go to and ask questions. The gentlemen (and ladies) are very informative and will try to answer any questions that you may have. Good luck.
BC

[50-170-700 sharps]

I always just use CLP

[Char-Gar]

I don't think it really matters much. I have used many different types of oil over the years and have seen no difference. I just wipe the presses off with a rag or paper towel every six months or so, although that has stretched out to several years a time or two.

[hiram1]

kroil by kano labs is good stuf to do that with.i use it.and for my guns to

[Slingshot]

I like using Tri-Flow for all my tools, guns and general lubrication.

[ShinyPartsUp]

Welcome aboard ShinyPartsUp,
I am also new to casting and reloading. I also would like to know if carbide dies need oil. While I have 2 casting sessions under my belt, I haven't reloaded any brass as of yet. Savin' up for powder & primers.
I do know that citric acid will work on brass, and works well. You'll have to research the threads posted on this cleaner for brass. My press has not needed any oil yet, since it has only been used to decap and size what cases I have. Still waitin' to buy some .45 acp dies so I can get my brass prepped. As of yet I haven't had the funds available for a tumbler for cleaning brass. I'm trying to do everything on a shoestring budget since I'm a disabled Vietnam vet and don't have a job. Hope everything works out for you; this a great hobby and you'll find some good information on this forum if you just take some time a look around the site. Also please be advised that there is a great chatroom you can go to and ask questions. The gentlemen (and ladies) are very informative and will try to answer any questions that you may have. Good luck.
BC

BC,

First, thank you for serving.

I know a reloader for 32 years, a championship handgun shooter, former cop and police rangemaster: He told me as long as the brass isn't gross, don't bother cleaning brass: I like the shiny way they come out of the ultrasonic cleaner though. :grin:

Believe it or not I did not know about the chat rooms, GUH! Thanks for pointing that out.

I set and fired up @ 200 rounds of .38 special loads with different weights of Unique and Bullseye, two cast bullet styles and all loaded in one brass headstamp. Trying to keep variables as limited as possible, I fired them out of the same 4: bbl Ruger yesterday and kept records of results, accuracy, etc. Great Fun!

Money isn't flowing in a torrent in my house either. I learned you don't need the best/newest equipment to get started. Keep going.

[Pigslayer]

I am a noobe to reloading. I just mounted my Lee Cast single stage press on my bench and re-read the instructions. It says to use a light oil on the ram, linkage and all moving parts.

What oil do folks use? Should I run a film of oil on it new or can it go a while before cleaning and oiling? How often do folks clean and oil?

TIA

I use lock-eze. Graphite suspended in oil. Works great!!
:guntootsmiley:

[W.R.Buchanan]

SPU: Lee dies and for that matter most everyones dies are made from 12L14 Steel.

This is a lo Carbon steel and will rust if you let it. Lee Dies don't have knurling and are not plated. If you touch them and leave fingerprints on them they will rust and the higher the humidity in your area the faster they will rust. Also exposure to any acidic vapor or contamination. I have a friend who works for me occasionally if we don't hose down the mill vise after he is done it is rusted solid the next day. This guys hands are so acidic it is rediculous. He also has Gout which is excess Uric acid which is why his sweat is so corrosive.

Knurling lowers the surface area a finger print can occupy however all that means is it will be harder to see the rust forming. Most of my RCBS dies and virtually all of my "used" dies I have bought over the years have had a trip thru the wire wheel after being let go or being aquired already rusted. Then I shoot the Dillon Case lube on them which is nothing more than Lanolin mixed with alchohol. It just works well and is not as greasy as oils, and it covers by capilary action much faster than oils do. Kroil being the exception, but Kroil stinks and gets everywhere.

Lee dies since they are smooth just have more surface area for fingerprints to show up. Nothing wrong with the material at all. Everybody uses 12L14 because it machines so nice, and is easy to get a good finish on. It also can be case hardened if necessary.

Any oil will work for the purpose of rust prevention. WD 40 ? I just sprayed some on the bolt of one of my guns yesterday as it was starting to rust, and the can was within reach.

Anything is better than nothing!

Randy

[bigjason6]

I'm a big fan of using silicone spray. Spray some on a rag and wipe down all the surfaces. It'll dry and leave a nice protective coating.

[ShinyPartsUp]

Buchanan, Thanks for the explanation and heads up. I've been spritzing them with RemOil (it was by my elbow) once you mentioned it, as I use them and wiping off any excess. Since I'm in the Pac NorthWet where everything rusts, everything gets oiled anyway.

[Ziptar]

I bought a Lyman Multi-Expand Powder through expanding die recently and the instructions say to wipe it down with Pledge or Enddust Furniture Polish.

I haven't tried that yet. I usually wipe down my dies and presses with 3-in-1 Oil after use.

[cp478]

What lube is recomended for the dillon square deal b?

[Rich/WIS]

Odd coincidence, just tore down my Lee press and cleaned and lubed it. Use a product called Krytox, it is a dry lube with teflon. Only do this every couple of years but will also spray with a Teflon/Graphite lube in between. Do this with the Lee and an OLD Lyman Spartan (been in use about 40 years) and both are running fine. Single stage presses don't have a lot of friction and any oil/lube works as long as it stays in place. Like the dry types as they don't seem to collect gunk like a wet film does.

[daboone]

"This is a machine and there is no law against oiling the moving parts." is a quote posted over on Handloadersbench .com. Comments associated with it would boiled down to: Just DO It and every once in awhile clean it, REPEAT.

[Ziptar]

I clean them with Hoppe's #9 and oil them with plain old 3 in 1 oil.

[TNFrank]

I've used 10w30 Motor oil on my Partner press for years without any ill effects. Heck, if it'll keep a car motor running it's for sure work on a press.

[Reload3006]

I just give mine a spray of rem oil or what ever gun oil I happen to have around. WD40 would work good too. as would LPS

[357maximum]

I use Ballistoil on almost everything ......it works and it also has some mild estrogen repellent qualities. [smilie=s:

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

I use dry graphite on the pivot and a very light coating of olive oil on the rest of it, as a protectant.

I don't like to use petroleum products around black or smokeless powder.

Regards,

Josh

[SmuvBoGa]

357Max,

A MOST tackful way of saying that ! My late shmbo didn't like the smell either.

JohnMc

[1hole]

"Anything is better than nothing..." I like that! As you can tell from the varied answers, the lube for a press sure isn't critical.

The very best light oil for small things used to be sperm whale oil. It was the best thing for original automatic auto transmissions too but was far to costly for much of that! SO - the oil industries developed a perfect synthetic subsitute they call AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID! It is the best light machine, gun and fishing reel I know of and it's CHEAP at Walmart too! ATF is a good light lube, it has very good film strenght so it protects from rust, dries very slowly and leaves no varnish when it does dry. ATF is a very fine lube for triggers and auto loaders.

Kano makes a fine penetrating oil but it's not real good for lube and is one of the poorest for a rust protection. Detergent type auto oils drain off and leave little to lube or protect anything. WD-40 is great for what it's made for; lifing water off the surface of wet metal, but it dries out fairly fast and leaves a sticky, gummy brown residue that eventually becomes a close cousin to varnish which neither lubes nor protects the metal from rust very well (never use WD-40 on an adjustable trigger or a fishing reel).

[slohunter]

I like Ballistol.

[nicholst55]

I've used whatever was available for decades; I used CLP for several years and it worked well. Now I use Dextron ATF; it works well and it's cheap. What's not to like?

[Bullfrog]

I use 3 in 1, but I have used Outers Tri Lube as well.

[bleukahuna]

It seems that what ever you have on hand will work ok as long as you use it.
Now if you want to see the question taken to extremes check out a bicycle forum for chain lubes, Why stop at flame wars when you can escalate to death threats?
Sometimes the mods move lube threads to religion and politics.

[Kevin Rohrer]

1. Lubriplate on areas not seen.
2. Breakfree on close-tolerance areas, like rams.
3. Synthetic 30 weight on non-close tolerance parts.
4. Breakfree for rust-prevention on bare metal.

[1hole]

"What oil do folks use? Should I run a film of oil on it new or can it go a while before cleaning and oiling? How often do folks clean and oil?"

This ain't rocket science and most anything oily will do what we need. So, folks use a wide variety of lubes, largely depending on what they have at hand. A film is all you can get with oil. Grease is a magnet for dust and primer grit so few of us use that. I only clean and oil when it appears to be needed and if I can't see a film of oil it gets it. But that's not on a schedule.

I've been doing this a very long time and have experimented with a LOT of oils and greases. The best 'gun oil' I've ever used is simple Automatic Transmission Fluid, sold in quarts for not much at Walmart's auto oil department. (Hydraulic oil is also good.) All oils eventually dry and what we need is an oil that won't leave a gooey varnish-like mess. That eliminates WD-40, most automotive engine and other organic oils! ATF is a slow drying synthetic oil that leaves no varnish; it's a very good light oil that penetrates well and has the film strength to resist rusting too. I apply it to dies and presses with a swab made of toilet tissue paper wrapped on a stick.

"Carbide"dies are all steel except for a small ring of carbide at the mouth of the sizers. To prevent rust we need to treat them the same as any other piece of bare steel.

[daboone]

I remember someone pointing out during a similar discussion about press maintenance: "This is a machine and there is no law against oiling the moving parts" So use what ya got and just do it regularly

[smokeywolf]

I use center-point lube (CMD) on the pivot points, and Mobil way oil for the ram. The Mobil way oil is what's used on the ways on lathes and mills.
WD-40 is primarily #1 diesel fuel, Balistol seems to leave a lasting lubricity without the build-up or yellowish crud that WD-40 leaves. LPS products are pretty good.

smokeywolf

[Mike Kerr]

30 weight motor oil; High temp tolerant grease; Breakfree; - applied in necessary locations. Breakfree or Rem oil lightly rubbed as an off season protectorant on exposed metal if not already covered above.

regards,

:smile::smile::smile:

[FUBAR 6]

Break free

Royal Purple tranny fluid

Synthetic grease

[btroj]

I use whatever I have on hand. I am not an oil snob.

[jimkim]

I use the latest version of Dexron ATF.

[rda72927]

I use a little pure lanolin. It is so good for lubing cases that I started using it on my press's.

[Kent Fowler]

Boe-Shield by Boeing. Best stuff I've found. Enco usually has it.

[r1kk1]

Boe-Shield by Boeing. Best stuff I've found. Enco usually has it.

That stuff works great on cast iron tables, I.e., table saw tables, band saw tables, etc.

Take care

r1kk1

[bruce drake]

30 weight motor oil; High temp tolerant grease; Breakfree; - applied in necessary locations. Breakfree or Rem oil lightly rubbed as an off season protectorant on exposed metal if not already covered above.

regards,

:smile::smile::smile:

You have an off-season for reloading?:bigsmyl2:

Bruce

[shdwlkr]

Shinypartsup

I had a press due to life that got all rusted because of where I had to have it. Tried all kinds of oil to get it lose enough so I could take it apart and really clean it only thing that worked was kroil by kano they are right it creeps and loosened it enough so I could take it apart.

I have used for decades any clean oil I could get my hands on to use and never really saw a big difference except what it cost to get it.

Your biggest issue is don't put to much on as it will attract dust and then the rust will start. Also try and keep your press where the temperature is above freezing and not damp other than that there isn't a whole lot to worry about.

[GT27]

Breakfree here!

[soldierbilly1]

whatever's on sale!

hah, (FP 10)

billy boy

[joec]

I have two presses not single stage a Lee Classic Turret and a Lee Pro 1000. I use a bit of moly grease very sparingly when I clean it and will when I tear it completely down and grease the parts in the main drive system. Now as for the Classic only the areas that came greased and being less than a year old with grease still there as well as how smooth it operates it doesn't look to need it anytime soon. My only modification was to pick up a different arm produced by an after market maker of parts for these. It saved my back from bending over when sitting is all. Sorry I don't have the maker on hand as I'm on a different computer at this time and will be for another week or so.