Lee Sprue Plate Coming Loose

[metweezer]

My sprue plate keeps coming loose when I bang the sprue off of it or just opening and closing the sprue plate. I am using my Lee 6 cavity mold and the top bolt keeps coming loose. Am I alone in experiencing this problem? If not, what do you do to solve this? :confused:
Thanks, Steve

[462]

Go to the top of this page and read the second and third stickies. You need to install a set screw. Add one to the sprue cutter stop bolt, too.

[Wally]

I have the same problem with some of mine. A set screw is a great idea but a bit tricky if you don't have a drill press. You can try using a small strip of aluminum from a soda can---you place it in the screw hole then attach the screw. This works for me. Others have use fine steel wool... Good luck!

[sig2009]

Been using the Lee 6 cav molds for a couple months now with no problem with the sprue plates coming loose. I don't have to bang the mold to get the sprue off. It just drops off if the mold is up to temp.

[metweezer]

I don't have a drill press, or even a vise. Would the liquid blue thread lock work?

[wiljen]

Send it to me. I'll leement it and send it back to you. That sound like it would work?

[Boolseye]

They do all come loose periodically, but it shouldn't be constant. I just keep the necessary wrenches on the table as I cast to keep things firmed down when they get a little loose (don't over-tighten and strip anything!) Is your mold properly lubed at all times? I think I put never-sieze on the bolts of all my molds–kind of the opposite of locktight :)

Are you cutting the sprue soon enough? Are you being fairly gentle with that aluminum Lee mold? All these things help keep things flowing smoothly and reduce the rate at which stuff comes loose and/or breaks.

[williamwaco]

I keep a 7/16 nut driver beside my stiring spoon.

About every 8 to 10 fillings the mold gets hot enough it needs to cool a little. That is when I inspect and sort bullets, add an ingot, flux, and oh yes, tighten up all the loose nuts.

[metweezer]

Send it to me. I'll leement it and send it back to you. That sound like it would work?

Wiljen, You're kidding, right? I didn't read anything about securing the bolt on the sprue plate in the Leementing thread and I haven't leemented the mold at all, just used alcohol and blackened the mold with a bic lighter and all my boolits are dropping fine.


They do all come loose periodically, but it shouldn't be constant. I just keep the necessary wrenches on the table as I cast to keep things firmed down when they get a little loose (don't over-tighten and strip anything!) Is your mold properly lubed at all times? I think I put never-sieze on the bolts of all my molds–kind of the opposite of locktight :)

Are you cutting the sprue soon enough? Are you being fairly gentle with that aluminum Lee mold? All these things help keep things flowing smoothly and reduce the rate at which stuff comes loose and/or breaks.

I used bullplate when I first broke in my mold and have made about 600 boolits. I haven't felt the need to use boolplate again. The hotter the mold gets the easier the sprue plate opens.

[wiljen]

Wiljen, You're kidding, right? I didn't read anything about securing the bolt on the sprue plate in the Leementing thread and I haven't leemented the mold at all, just used alcohol and blackened the mold with a bic lighter and all my boolits are dropping fine.



Not kidding at all. Part of the process of Leementing the molds is to drill and tap the sprue plate screw hole for a set screw from the side.
This shows it http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/MoldMods/LeementingKitDocumentation.pdf

I am more than willing to do the work, if you pay the shipping.

[Boolseye]

That set screw would do it, alright. Darn friendly offer, Wiljen.

[metweezer]

Not kidding at all. Part of the process of Leementing the molds is to drill and tap the sprue plate screw hole for a set screw from the side.
This shows it http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/MoldMods/LeementingKitDocumentation.pdf

I am more than willing to do the work, if you pay the shipping.

Wiljen,
This sounds too good to be true. I have the 6 cavity mold unlike the one you show in the above link. Do I have to put in a screw when you drill/tap your hole and if so what size screw? If you will PM me your name and address I will ship my mold to you and include return shipping and any other fees necessary,
Thanks, Steve

[metweezer]

That set screw would do it, alright. Darn friendly offer, Wiljen.

Tell me about it! What a guy! I am taking him up on his very generous offer.

[wiljen]

I have the cup screws to fit and will go ahead and mount the screw plate back and test it. It will be a standard 8-32 thread so if you needed to replace it you could easily.

[metweezer]

Thanks Will,
I will try to get this mold off to you tomorrow. Thanks so much,
Steve

[Sonnypie]

I don't have a drill press, or even a vise. Would the liquid blue thread lock work?

The blue Loctite Thread Locker is what I have been using on my molds that have done that.
Put a complete stop to the nonsense without messing things up.
I also put a tiny drop of paraffin wax on the screw/plate pivot point. It has been a reliable lube for me, for all of the moving joints of my molds.
Anytime it gets sluggish or acts sticky, just a touch of the butt of a candle.

[leadman]

If the hole gets too worn out or threads stripped completly you can use the Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount formula. This stuff is very high temp and works great. You do have to heat it with a torch to get it back apart though.

I had a tapered bearing race wear a groove in the front axle of my old Dakota. Peened the area and degreased it, put this in, installed the bearing race, let it set until the next day and it is still running now about 6 years later. Used it alot when I was a heavy equipment mechanic also.

[JIMinPHX]

I've had good luck with 8-32 set screws. I usually put a piece of lead shot under them to keep the screw threads from getting boogered up.

[ColColt]

Thanks Will,
I will try to get this mold off to you tomorrow. Thanks so much,
Steve

All I can say is you must be living right.;)

[wiljen]

Hey Met, this look like what you had in mind?


Hope so cuz it is on its way back to you.

[metweezer]

Will,
You're unbelievable! According to the post office, you weren't supposed to receive it until today (Tuesday). If there is ever anything I can do for you, just ask. You are an amazing person. Thank you once again.
Steve

[Char-Gar]

This is common with Lee six cavity molds and as others have said, a set screw is the best fix.

[metweezer]

I have the cup screws to fit and will go ahead and mount the screw plate back and test it. It will be a standard 8-32 thread so if you needed to replace it you could easily.

Will,
You're the best. You did a fantastic job. Can't wait to use it again. Thank you once again, so very much.
Steve

[sig2009]

That set screw would do it, alright. Darn friendly offer, Wiljen.

All the set screws in my RCBS and Lyman molds work for ****. Even when tightened down the bolt still works itself lose!

[kbstenberg]

Steve another trick is to get some waive washers an put under the bolt that holds the sprueplate on.
Kevin