PDA

View Full Version : leaking lee production pot



gwpercle
10-31-2011, 02:31 PM
My 10# Lee Production Pot has leaked from day one and I don't really like the bottom pour feature. My best bullets are still made with the casting dipper. Is there any way to remove the bottom pour assembly and plug the hole so it doesn't leak? I was thinking of using a tight fitting metal screw or maybe a tight self-tapping metal screw to plug the hole but there may be something I'm not thinking about in this conversion. Anybody done this ? Give me some advice.

Let me clarify what I'm trying to do. Remove the bottom pour assembly and plug the bottom hole, so it doesn't leak , so I can use it as an open top pot with my dipper.

Sonnypie
10-31-2011, 04:31 PM
Welcome to Cast Boolits!

Your question:
No.
That is against the law.
There is one legal way around your delema though...
Buy a furnace (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/MAGNUM-MELTER.html) for your dipping, and send the leaker to me.
I'll fix it and we'll both be tickled. :drinks:

Such a Deal! :mrgreen:

Hardcast416taylor
10-31-2011, 09:04 PM
I believe that bottom pour spout is steel. With the pot empty and cold, have a friend with a welder put some weld on the spout to seal it.Robert

DLCTEX
11-02-2011, 09:05 AM
Just drive a self drilling metal screw in it.

Maximumbob54
11-02-2011, 10:31 AM
It may just leak due to a burr or uneven seal. A jewelers file or some lapping compound would likely fix it. I'm always getting mine dirty from trying to clean lead to pour ingots. I have a small brad nail that I push up and down in the spout. The nail moves the grit so it can float to the surface. No more drippy.

I agree a small sheet metal screw would plug it if you must.

gwpercle
11-02-2011, 01:13 PM
Thanks for the advice guys . Last night after getting the bottom pour assembly removed from the pot I discovered the area around and in the bottom hole had all kinds of crud clogging the hole and the seat where the metal plunger sits. It took me a good 2 hrs. to get the holes and seat cleaned. The job would have been easier if I could have pulled the pot out of the base. Can this be done? Without breaking something? After removing the 2 screws that hold the pour assembly in place I removed the other 2 screws from the top. It seemed the top band should be removable thus allowing the steel pot to be slipped out. I gently tried a few taps to ease the band off- it didn't move - so I didn't try to force it. If anyone has instructions on how to dissasemble it will make cleaning a lot easier. After I get this thing apart and cleaned really well I'm going to give bottom pouring another try but this time cleaning it regularly. I had never owned a bottom pour melter and was not aware of the crud buildup and I only put clean metal ignots in I have no idea where all the crud came from. How often do you clean your pots?

Sonnypie
11-02-2011, 04:19 PM
How often do you clean your pots?

I don't. That's kitchen stuff, I dare not tread... :shock:

Naw, I can do it all.

Anyway, the Lee Pro 4 - 20...
I don't really "clean" the furnace. I only put in clean material and flux when starting up, and if I looks like the melt needs it later along.
I rarely do the dross (slag) removal. But now and then will clean off the melt and flux right away.
Keep your furnace fuller so only your alloy is down around your valve and pour spout.
Some say 1/4 minimum.
But I use 2 alloys, so occasionally I have need to drain and change. In that case I will carefully keep the dross away from the bottom pour valve with my spoon as I drain out the furnace into my little ingot cups.
Then change to the other alloy. (Lyman #2 - Shot alloy - Lyman #2) What tiny amount that is left just blends with the next alloy.

If my pot gets drippy, I rapidly open and snap closed the valve operator to clear the valve several times. So far that has been all I have needed to do.
Either I got a good one, or I'm holding my mouth just right...:bigsmyl2:

Are you using good clean flux material? I use Lizard Litter. It is ground English walnut shell. Hardwood and clean. I got it to use in my vibratory tumbler, but went with SST media when my big tumbler began dying.
The ground shells work excellent and are nice and clean to add. And it burns down to nearly nothing later on.

454PB
11-02-2011, 04:46 PM
To clean mine, I remove the lifting mechanism and put the rod in a cordless drill. Place the tapered end of the rod in the spout and spin it a while. Repeat as required until both the rod and the spout interior are shiny.

Ben
11-02-2011, 07:06 PM
Commonly known as the " Lee Drip - O - Matic.

Another reason that I use the Lee 20 lb. ladle casting pot.

williamwaco
11-02-2011, 07:20 PM
To clean mine, I remove the lifting mechanism and put the rod in a cordless drill. Place the tapered end of the rod in the spout and spin it a while. Repeat as required until both the rod and the spout interior are shiny.



I find that this method is very effective in stopping the leak. BUT it will not last and as soon as more crud gets in there it will leak again.

If I were you, I would take out the rod and drop a steel BB down in the spout. Then replace the rod. The BB will float out if you don't. It might not work, but it is cheap and reversable.

( I'm a Scott, I don't like to spend money. )

torpedoman
11-04-2011, 12:20 AM
I never empty my pot, i always leave the lead in it and it seems to keep problems to a minimum. no leakage since i started doing that.

gwpercle
11-04-2011, 10:59 AM
In case anyone wants to know you can not remove the top ring and remove the steel pot. The heating coils wind around the pots bottom and the bottom pouring spout prevents removal. But if you remove the base plate and the bottom ring/ alumn. plate which covers the steel pot bottom and heating coil the hole in the bottom spout is now accesible and much easier to clean.

dragonrider
11-04-2011, 11:58 AM
Keep your pot clean and it won't leak,,,,,,,much. It will occaisionaly drip, that is the nature of the beast. The only way to keep it clean is to use sawdust for flux if you flux your casting pot. I do not. OR just stir it up with a DRY wood stick. Never use wax or oil or any petroleum distillate to flux your casting pot, only creates a very dirty pot. And the kitty litter falacy is another problem, it breaks down and builds up on the pot sides and eventualy all the way down to the bottom. You cannot get clean lead from a dirty pot. Other things that help is to never let you pot get below half full, never empty your pot when your casting session is done, make sure it is full before shutting down. And in answer to post #12, the top ring is the top of the pot, it does not come off, but the steel pot does come out, grab twist and remove, very simple.

hedgehorn
11-08-2011, 12:13 AM
I have cleaned my pot. simply by picking it up when hot and pouring the lead into my smelting pot. Its amazing how clean it is when you dump it out. I find dirt and other foul when I do. I then just heat the lead and flux it then pour it back in. I fount that if the pot is clean and no burs on the metering rod it shuts off pretty well. I ladle cast for one or two cavity molds but like the bottom pour for six cavity molds. I have had problems with it leaking but it is usually contamination

dromia
11-08-2011, 02:59 AM
When I was in your position of only having Lee pots (3, 2 x 10lb and 1 x 17lb) I too converted them to dipper as the leaking was unfixable, that was after tryng every fix described here and elsewhere.

I plugged mine up with a small screw and some fire clay, sealed up fine and made good dipping pots 'till I was able to ditch them and get Pro Melts.

williamwaco
11-08-2011, 03:28 PM
When I was in your position of only having Lee pots (3, 2 x 10lb and 1 x 17lb) I too converted them to dipper as the leaking was unfixable, that was after tryng every fix described here and elsewhere.

I plugged mine up with a small screw and some fire clay, sealed up fine and made good dipping pots 'till I was able to ditch them and get Pro Melts.


I have been casting for 6 decades. I don't know how many pots I have owned or borrowed. I have never seen a pot that didn't drip.

Are Pro-Melts really that good?

dromia
11-09-2011, 01:14 AM
All I can say is that I bought my first one must be over 10 years ago new and it has never dripped at all. I got my second one around five years ago and it has never dripped either. I cast around 200 boolits a week on average.

The Lees weren't just an occassional drip, it would start that way and in no time it would be come a positive leak.

To me the Promelts are definitely worth the money, and they aren't cheap. They hold more alloy, they are ergonomically better, keep better temp, RCBS warranty is second to none I'm in the UK and sending stuff back to Lee would make it not viable, RCBS have just shipped to me foc when I've had a problem. With the Promelts the only issue I had was when I bought my second hand one it was sans pouring parts. I emailed RCBS for the cost of the parts explaining I'd bought a second hand pot and they sent them foc.

The Lees are in a different field cost wise and considering their chaepness do represent value of a sort and many people find them adequate for their needs and pocket.

However the Promelt is a different class of product and I've never looked back since I got them, it does what it says on the can without fettling.

Lee stuff I regard as more of a kit that will need working on and adjusting through its life to keep it operating, if you are happy with that then Lee can be a real bargain.

gwpercle
11-09-2011, 01:58 PM
Thanks for all the input guy's - I have really learned a lot about melting pot's. Guess that's what the site is all about , sharing experiences learned.

Final chapter from me - after cleaning out all the crud and lapping rod and seat then refilling with clean metal ( as advised by you'all ) NO LEAKS!

I will now continue to use it, cleaning when needed and start saving my nickles and dimes so I can purchase the good one.

Thanks to all

gary

pdawg_shooter
11-09-2011, 04:45 PM
If you have a Lee pot that is not dripping you need to add lead cause you are out. I have welded min shut and use a dipper. Get better bullets that way anyway.

williamwaco
11-09-2011, 09:43 PM
All I can say is that I bought my first one must be over 10 years ago new and it has never dripped at all. I got my second one around five years ago and it has never dripped either. I cast around 200 boolits a week on average.

To me the Promelts are definitely worth the money, and they aren't cheap. They hold more alloy, they are ergonomically better, keep better temp, RCBS warranty is second to none I'm in the UK and sending stuff back to Lee would make it not viable, RCBS have just shipped to me foc when I've had a problem. With the Promelts the only issue I had was when I bought my second hand one it was sans pouring parts. I emailed RCBS for the cost of the parts explaining I'd bought a second hand pot and they sent them foc.





Thanks.

I too consider Lee casting equipment "disposable". I use it till it quits then toss it. Even here, it cost more to return a mold for repair than to buy a new one.

You have convinced me. I will be trying the Pro-Melt as soon as finances allow.

Bill,
7th generation Scotish immigrant. My grandfather "John"- last name uncertain. He changed it when he arrived in the US because he left Scotland "...one step ahead of the Sheriff. Family ledgend."

pdawg_shooter
11-10-2011, 08:57 AM
If Lee had a 20+ lb pot for us ladle casters I would buy one in a heart beat.

454PB
11-10-2011, 02:03 PM
They do!

http://leeprecision.com/xcart/MAGNUM-MELTER.html

Wally
11-10-2011, 02:35 PM
Remove the rod/valve and place in a drill--polish the end with fine sandpaper---then spin a pencil shaped dowel on a drill in the bottom hole of the pot (from the inside)---it will no longer leak. With time it will again, as gunk collect on the rod tip--so you have to repeat the process. If you put away your production pot empty (no lead)...put some oil on the bottom of the valve rod to prevent rusting---as rust will occur and that will allow it to drip.

dromia
11-13-2011, 02:30 AM
Thanks.

I too consider Lee casting equipment "disposable". I use it till it quits then toss it. Even here, it cost more to return a mold for repair than to buy a new one.

You have convinced me. I will be trying the Pro-Melt as soon as finances allow.

Bill,
7th generation Scotish immigrant. My grandfather "John"- last name uncertain. He changed it when he arrived in the US because he left Scotland "...one step ahead of the Sheriff. Family ledgend."

I'm sure that you won't be dissappointed, and in the unlikely event of any issues then RCBS will make it right FoC.

Second hand can be a good source but you don't see them that often, people tend to keep them once they have got one. :grin: