Need help with the BFR

[saz]

I had a chance to fire my 500S&W BFR yesterday. I was on my way out bear hunting on my ATV and I decided to bring it along. All I had put together was some trail boss loads, with the Lee 440 with no gas check. I still do not have my gas checks or sizing die- they were supposed to be here by now, but still haven't showed up. Anyways, I picked up an old juice bottle someone decided to leave laying around and put it about 25 yards out, and used my 4 wheeler as a rest. Everything shot great, and no juice bottle is safe at 25 yards :Fire:- but I had 4 rounds that I thought at first were bad primers, but I remembered that the 500 was initially designed with a pistol primer so it (the pistol) would have a lighter hammer spring right? I loaded them back into the pistol and 3 went off the second time, and one had to be hit 3 additional times.

My BFR is an earlier one, as it was not drilled and tapped for a scope mount nor did it come with one. So I am thinking that it was made before the switch to LR primers in the 500. Now, am I on the right track with my thinking? If so what should I use for a hammer spring?

[missionary5155]

Good morning
If I was up there & my BFR did a similar thing I would give the fine people at BFR a call. I have a caliber .454 so I cannot comment on the caliber.500...
If it is previously owned You would have to wonder.. did someone install a lighter hammer spring to reduce trigger pull ? But yes you are thinking right. A softer primer cup requires a lesser hammer blow for reliable ignition. Different companies are known for "soft" or "hard" primers. Winchesters are on the soft side compared to CCI. And as you mentioned LP should be softer.. but then a hard LP might be as tough as a soft LR primer.
Mike in Peru
Mike in Peru

[subsonic]

It could have something to do with how deep or shallow you seated the primers. Large rifle primers are taller than large pistol. I you don't get a pistol primer seated to the bottom of the primer pocket, the hammers blow is mostly wasted pushing the primer the rest of the way in instead of setting it off. Try seating the primers harder/deeper and see if it improves.

If not that, then it's time to investigate firing pin protrusion andhammer spring strength, maybe try some primers from a different pack.

[subsonic]

If your going to use rifle primers, use the Wolff 28# springs. You can get them straight from wolffs website.

But I would use large pistol mag primers, especially for light loads.

[44man]

If your going to use rifle primers, use the Wolff 28# springs. You can get them straight from wolffs website.
This is true and they are the best springs.
LP springs will run 22# to 23#, LR springs are 28#.
The weaker spring with LR primers will really cut your accuracy.
Then a LP mag primer works just fine in the S&W.
Watch your brass, there are warnings all over about using LR primers in brass cut for LP, they stand .010" out of the brass and can slam fire on the recoil plate to destroy your gun.
The very safest thing to do is make sure ALL brass is cut deep enough for a LR primer, then you can use both LR and LP mags.
Do NOT try to force a LR primer in the shorter pocket, you just ruin them.
I switch out all of my LP guns to a 26# spring from Wolff, I don't like the lighter springs.

[saz]

All my starline brass is for LR primers. I will try LP primers- I planned on it while working up a load. I am waiting on my mold from Dan at mountain molds to be made, and I also have no GC's to use with my Lee 440 mold either so you can say I am at a standstill.

[Frank]

I think the primer you use will depend on the powder. If it's a pistol powder, you should use a LPM primer. If it's a rifle powder then use LR primers. Don't go by just what pocket is available.

[44man]

I think the primer you use will depend on the powder. If it's a pistol powder, you should use a LPM primer. If it's a rifle powder then use LR primers. Don't go by just what pocket is available.
The danger is mixing them. You need to know what brass you have. Some were cut for one primer and another cut for another primer.

[saz]

I made sure to buy all starline cut for LR primiers.

[Frank]

saz:
You know what? That was a seeing error on my part. I thought you wrote LR primer, not LP primer. You're on the right track. Sorry!

44man:

The danger is mixing them. You need to know what brass you have. Some were cut for one primer and another cut for another primer.
That's some good info you provided there, 44man.

[saz]

BTW, that TB load had ZERO leading. Cleaned the gun up tonight- 2 tight dry patches down the bore and it was shiny again and no flakes on the patches. Followed it up with a brush wrapped in a copper chore boy just to be sure, and nothing. Kinda curious as to how fast that 15gr TB load was moving.......

[Frank]

saz:

BTW, that TB load had ZERO leading. Cleaned the gun up tonight- 2 tight dry patches down the bore and it was shiny again and no flakes on the patches. Followed it up with a brush wrapped in a copper chore boy just to be sure, and nothing. Kinda curious as to how fast that 15gr TB load was moving.......
Do they make a jacketed load of similar bullet weight? If they do, where it impacts on the paper will give you some indication, but I would bet yours are way higher. That's OK, as long as there aren't fliers. And I don't mean airplanes! :groner:

[saz]

Called MR to see if they would warranty the mainspring, and that was a big NO. They will only warranty it for one year after the manufacture date, and this one was made in 2003. I bought it new about a month ago so I have no warranty apparently. Oh well, i'm gonna order a new spring for it from wolf and another for my SBH while I am at it to see if I can wring a little more accuracy out of that one as well. Thanks for the help guys!

[subsonic]

Called MR to see if they would warranty the mainspring, and that was a big NO. They will only warranty it for one year after the manufacture date, and this one was made in 2003. I bought it new about a month ago so I have no warranty apparently. Oh well, i'm gonna order a new spring for it from wolf and another for my SBH while I am at it to see if I can wring a little more accuracy out of that one as well. Thanks for the help guys!

You should make them clarify whether or not they are talking about JUST the spring, or the whole gun. It sounds suspiciously like MR is..... changing a bit.

This is what the website says just now:
"MRI's full factory warranty applies to firearms purchased through licensed Dealers having a retail storefront. Warranty does not apply to the external finish for purchases made sight unseen online or through the internet. No exceptions."

[44man]

Springs are cheap, dirt cheap so it is no worry. I would not want a factory spring anyway. Wolff is better, the very best in fact.
I went through a pile of Ruger springs until I changed to Wolff.
I used to order magazine springs by the dozen from Wolff for the Rem 870 and 1100 shotguns. The factory springs would set and fail to feed. Being a gunsmith, I just had too many problems with these guns. A simple spring change will last forever.