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View Full Version : Trapdoor firing pin -HELP



Moondawg
10-20-2011, 09:59 AM
I have a late model trapdoor rifle, that I picked up cheap. It has one major problem. The firing pin is frozen in the bolt, in the extended position. I have tried most everything. It has been soaking in a can of kroil for almost three weeks. Every day or so I take it out and try to tap the pin back with a brass hammer. I have heated it with a hairdryer hot enough I don't want to pick it up with bare fingers and tapped the firing pin. I even tried PB Blaster for a few days. The sucker is still in there tight. What do I do next? I would like to be able to save the firing pin if possible. I don't want to beat on it with a heavy steel hammer. I am at a loss as to how to get the little rascal loose and out of the bolt. The bolt itself does not appear rusted.

calaloo
10-20-2011, 10:30 AM
The best penetrating solvent is 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone. Kroil is better than PB Blaster. ATF/acetone is twice as good a Kroil. Try soaking in that for a while. give it time and be gentle. If you ever get it to move just a bit you'll have it made.

docone31
10-20-2011, 11:34 AM
In the past, what has worked for me was to slightly tighten the frozen bolt, or tap whatever was frozen in the forward position. This seemed to allow for some movement so penetrating oils could enter and do their work.
Then, you could drift the exposed pin into the firing pin guide.

405
10-20-2011, 02:50 PM
docone31's idea is surely something to try. If the TD were mine I'd put the bolt in a padded vise and use a plastic hammer to rap the end of the firing pin. Then alternate with rapping the back of the firing pin with the same hammer and a brass drift to see if I could get any movement started.

It may be obvious but first make sure the firing pin retaining screw (short flat filister head screw) is removed from the underside of the firing pin channel (under the thumb cam rod). Likely you've done that- just checking.

You stated that it's a late model TD? If the receiver is over about ser # 85,000 there is a possiblility that the bolt is earlier (or has an earlier firing pin in it) and the firing pin has a small coil firing pin rebound spring. Those springs were known to break and really wedge-jam the firing pin in the protruded position. Anyway, hope you can get it out without damaging the bolt or the firing pin.

bob208
10-20-2011, 04:02 PM
you have come upond the most common problem with the trapdoor. it plaged the army for years. they did away with the steel firing pins and went to a bronze alloy.

i have ended up drilling out the old pins after trying everything you have. i then make a new pin out of stainless steel

MtGun44
10-23-2011, 12:46 AM
I have read that cadet drill rifles were made by putting iodine into the firing pin channel
to intentionally and permanently rust the firing pin in place to disable the gun. If that
is the case, you will likely be drilling it out.

Good luck.

Bill

Ragnarok
10-23-2011, 09:29 AM
Get yourself a 'yard-sale' crockpot...fill it with enough penetrating oil to cover the bolt..then set it outside where it won't burn your house up..and cook it loose.

Moondawg
10-23-2011, 11:07 AM
Well I have tried everything suggested, except cooking it out. I am heating it in a pan of kroil as I write this. So far it has soaked over two weeks in Kroil, been blasted for a week with KP Blaster, the screws are all out of the bolt (first thing I did) and it has soaked in ATF-acetone for a week, It has been heated with hairdryer and frozen in freezer for a couple days and the firing pin will not budge.

I cooking in kroil doesn't work, my next step is to try and drill the sucker out.

Ragnarok
10-23-2011, 11:34 AM
Don't blow yourself up!

I tried the ARF/acetone thing for some rusty parts and stuck screws on British Martini rifles from Nepal...I wasn't too impressed with it myself.

Seemed as if the acetone evaporated out of the mix fairly quick..and your stuff ended up setting in ATF.

A really effective penetrating oil is a aerosol product from 'Castle' named 'Thrust'..this is the most effective penetrating oil I've found. It's expensive..but well worth the money(about $8 a can).

waksupi
10-23-2011, 11:58 AM
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

405
10-23-2011, 12:08 PM
Well I have tried everything suggested, except cooking it out. I am heating it in a pan of kroil as I write this. So far it has soaked over two weeks in Kroil, been blasted for a week with KP Blaster, the screws are all out of the bolt (first thing I did) and it has soaked in ATF-acetone for a week, It has been heated with hairdryer and frozen in freezer for a couple days and the firing pin will not budge.

I cooking in kroil doesn't work, my next step is to try and drill the sucker out.

Whew, you've tried everything I would have and more. Have you tried really whacking the bolt HARD from all directions with a plastic hammer? The last ditch, only other thing short of drilling would be soaking it in CLR for a few days. Something tells me that it is the older bolt/firing pin with the coil rebound spring. If that spring has broken, wedged and rusted in there it will be a bugger to nudge loose. Looking at that bolt and the pin channel..... drilling the pin out without damaging the bolt is going to be tricky. Good luck!

mazo kid
10-23-2011, 01:22 PM
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

Ric, you beat me to it; I was going to suggest the electrolytic rust removal too. In fact, I have 2 Trapdoor bolts with frozen firing pins also. I just have to get busy and make my rust removal container.

AkMike
10-23-2011, 02:31 PM
A plastic tub from Wally World should be enough.

Moondawg
10-23-2011, 03:36 PM
I tried the cooking in Kroil trick and cooked the sucker for about 15 minues. It wasn't boiling but it was HOt. I took the bolt out put it in my padded vise and whacked the firing pin. It moved back to the face of the bolt. I have the thing where I can get about 1/4 inch back and forth play on the pin. It is still stuck in there, but at least it is lossened a little bit. I will keep working at it. By the time I get the pin out, it will probably be a write off. I think I will replace it with a bronze alloy one.

Thanks everyone for the various tips. Cooking seemed to work.

Dframe
10-23-2011, 05:36 PM
Good news! Now you need to just tap back and forth for a while and cook again if necessary. Let us know when you get it out.

Ragnarok
10-23-2011, 06:35 PM
You got the firingpin retaining screw out don't ya'?

Moondawg
10-24-2011, 08:10 PM
:bigsmyl2:
I finally got the sucker OUT, after cooking again this afternoon. I got the back/thick part of the pin backed out enough that I could clamp the the pin down in my vice jaws and tap the bolt off of it. Boy that firing pin was rusted from one end to the other. I am going to order a bronze alloy one tomorrow. That and clean of the pin channel in the bolt.
Thanks, a bunch everybody for the many tips. Maybe I can get this badboy trapdoor shooting afterall.

dragonrider
10-24-2011, 09:34 PM
Where might you be ordering that bronze alloy pin from????

405
10-26-2011, 12:48 PM
:bigsmyl2:
I finally got the sucker OUT, after cooking again this afternoon. I got the back/thick part of the pin backed out enough that I could clamp the the pin down in my vice jaws and tap the bolt off of it. Boy that firing pin was rusted from one end to the other. I am going to order a bronze alloy one tomorrow. That and clean of the pin channel in the bolt.
Thanks, a bunch everybody for the many tips. Maybe I can get this badboy trapdoor shooting afterall.

[smilie=w: That's good news and thanks for reporting back!

mazo kid
12-06-2011, 12:09 PM
:bigsmyl2:
I finally got the sucker OUT, after cooking again this afternoon.....


Good to hear. I did make the electrolytic rust remover and "cooked" one of my frozen firing pins for over 26 hours....still stuck tight. Guess I'll try the heated penetrating oil next. If I can get the pin to move a little bit, I should be able to continue the electrolytic method to better advantage.

waksupi
12-06-2011, 12:40 PM
Em, I have had seriously rusted stuff I have had to leave in the electrolysis for a week to free them up.

John Boy
12-06-2011, 03:16 PM
I am a fan of the 50:50 mix of acetone:ATF. If is good to 'break' rust adhesion. To loosen and remove rust chemically, Evapo-Rust ... http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rust+remover&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=17976576249655487753&sa=X&ei=NmneTpXaOuH10gH8h_XGBw&ved=0CJsBEPMCMAE

mazo kid
12-07-2011, 05:10 PM
Em, I have had seriously rusted stuff I have had to leave in the electrolysis for a week to free them up.

Well Ric, I've got LOT'S of time! So, back on electrolysis for a while. It WAS still bubbling good when I took it off. May change the water tho, yuck!