New to swaging

[Crawdaddy]

I was reading some of these threads at lunch and decided I had to try it.

Here is what I have so far.

1) annealed a piece of 45 acp brass
2) dropped a 250 grn .429 bullet into it
3) sized to .458

It gave me a nice looking bullet, all except for 1 thing. I can't figure out how to size the brass down to the ogive of the bullet.

The bullet seated nice and tight.

Two questions

1) how can I size the brass to the ogive?
2) what do you guys think of this case/ bullet combo?

My goal is to shoot it in my 450 marlin and 458 win mag.

[Utah Shooter]

Photo's?

[Crawdaddy]

Photo's?

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6168/6264684337_039e9b316a_z_d.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6265212880_9f87702e9d_z_d.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/6264684987_e8b64b16bc_z_d.jpg

[alfloyd]

"1) how can I size the brass to the ogive?"

To get an ogive on a swaged bullet, you need a swage die that makes an ogive while swaging the bullet up to the final size.
It is called a nose forming die, I think.

Lafaun

[Crawdaddy]

Thanks, that got me started.
It seems these are called point forming dies.

Now, which one do I need and who sells them?

[danr]

i have had some good success at converting reloading dies into swage dies.

the trick is to find a reloading die caliber that has a base sholder the same or close to but not going under the caliber of bullet that you want.

for instance, you can get a .451 from a 257 roberts die.

its a simple process to swap out the de-capping pin assembly for a point ejection assembly.

i can also make these point form dies if you need some.

good luck.
thanks,
Dan

[Crawdaddy]

i have had some good success at converting reloading dies into swage dies.

the trick is to find a reloading die caliber that has a base sholder the same or close to but not going under the caliber of bullet that you want.

for instance, you can get a .451 from a 257 roberts die.

its a simple process to swap out the de-capping pin assembly for a point ejection assembly.

i can also make these point form dies if you need some.

good luck.
thanks,
Dan

CAn you give me an estimate on cost? what info would you need from me to design?

[danr]

CAn you give me an estimate on cost? what info would you need from me to design?

i would need to know what the diameter of projectile you want, and the total length of the projectile.

if i converted a reloading die into a swage die for you, it wouldn't cost much.. depending on the reloading die i use, it could be as low as $100.

i've made several 44 mag, and 45acp's from 257 roberts dies.. i usually get a pretty good deal on old dies from gun shows.

the real factor is how easily i can get ahold of the reloading die we need to use, and how much modifications we do to it.

for most pistol projectiles, the ogive is formed by the shoulder of the reloading die.

also, another thing that adds cost, is what projectile options you would like the dies to make.. Flat nose, hollow points, star points, JXP's.

feel free to contact me via PM with the info, and i'll be happy to work up quote for you.

thanks,
Dan

[Crawdaddy]

Dan

Once I understood what you were saying I went home and tried a 300 wm die and it was close.
I am beginning to understand the concept behind swaging.

I came up with what I believe are shootable bullets.
They weigh out at 342 grs and measure .459.

Going to shoot the in my ML with a sabot first.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6268005978_d1283d19f2_b_d.jpg

[danr]

when it comes to putting something through your barrel, SIZE MEANS EVERYTHING.. its a difference between life and death.
so be ABSOLUTELY SURE that your projectile is of CORRECT Size.

if your new to machinist work, then its best to have someone check your work before shooting anything.. an extra pair of TRAINED eyes could save your life, and or your rifle.

there are some methods of finding out what size of projectile you should be shooting.

the best way is to SLUG your barrel.

if you haven't slug your barrel yet, i would hold of shooting anything you make.

the next thing is to make sure your using an accurate measuring device.. a digital calipers reloaders use for checking case length is NOT very accurate. get a machinist to use his good calipers on it to be sure.

i make no warranty towards your safety following my idea's, and the this forum doesn't give any warranty to it either.. just because i have done it, and have had success, doesn't mean that anyone who is untrained can do it.

i dont mean to scare you, its that i dont know you, nor your level of ability. if you feel safe shooting them, then its up to you..


:)
dan

[danr]

overall, if i'm seeing the projectile, and not a loaded case.. then it doesn't look bad at all.

remember, the jacket length will adjust how much lead you can put into the jacket, thus, it changes the overall weight of the projectile.

:)
dan

[danr]

here is a some of the ones i make. not the best.. but should give an idea of possibilities.

http://i56.tinypic.com/2i7sn5h.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/2igdfh5.jpg

[MIBULLETS]

Crawdaddy, after you formed the nose, you may want to run it through your sizer again. From the picture, it looks like the bullet is a little larger in diameter than the rest of it. It might just be the picture though.

[Crawdaddy]

sound advice from both of you. I did run it through a second time.
I am new to swaging, not machining metal. Although I wouldn't say I am an expert, I have been using a smithy for many years. I am absolutely sure my calipers are accurate.

[Crawdaddy]

Took these to the range today and shot 1.5 inches out of my Vortek ML. I was impressed. I made up 25 more today. This could be addicting

[danr]

oh yea.. . making your own projectiles and shooting better than your buddies who use factory is addicting.

being able to say, "i make a better bullet then any of THOSE guys can" is a lot of fun.
then being able to back it up is much more fun.

:)
dan