Extractor Pin - Drill Rod ???

[Lee]

I've an old .22 pistol, the extractor pin is missing. Can't find it on the 'net.

Can I use the back end of a drill bit? Specifically, should I try to taper it? Should I try to size it a couple(?) thou's larger than the hole? Can I stake it to anchor, or would red/blue Loctite be better? Do I need to/want to anneal the drill rod before installation?
Please don't suggest a gunsmith, there's no local ones, and I don't wish to put a lot of $$$ into something that should be this simple. (Or is it???)
Looking for all thoughts and opinions......
Thanks in advance ..... Lee;)

[rmcc]

Lee,

I have used drill bits before, they work great!! Having the "right" size bit is another matter. Tapering poses 2 problems. One, the orginal hole is probably not tapered so pin is not bearing equally ( I am probably being too picky with this). Second, if you taper the pin, install and removal are now one way. I have found using a bit that is tight to opening is usually enough. If in doubt, stake it.

Rich

[MtGun44]

SS welding rod or piano wire are also great in this application. Rarely tapered.

Bill

[Dframe]

I'd go to the hardware store and look for roll pins that might fit. They're a lot more forgiving of small size differences than straight pins, and do not require tapering or peening.

[frankenfab]

Extractor pin, drill rod, yes. Better yet, just cut the end off the proper size drill bit. It's already hardened.

[uscra112]

Dittos all 'round.

Finding the right size is key. Some hardware stores have a selection of hardened steel dowel pins. I've made good use of these when rebuilding Stevens Model 44s. They are the very best - tough steel, and quite hard, and very accurately sized. But you have to cut them with a cutoff wheel, no other way to do it.

Drill shanks are great because they come in many sizes. Not very hard, but pretty tough. A sharp file will cut a drill bit shank.

Been working on an Iver Johnson 55a lately. (I know, why bother, but it became a challenge) There's three pins that hold the trigger, the guard, and the sear in place. Piano wire did famously, but only because the right size was easy to find. Piano wire is fairly hard on the surface, but soft inside, so it can be bent easily. Easily cut with a sharp file. Larger sizes can even be hacksawed.

I have used roll-pins for low-stress jobs, but I make darn sure that the groove is oriented away from the direction that pressure is applied from. Need a cutoff wheel to cut them.

Don't anneal it, whatever you do. The OEM pins in that I.J. were dead soft, and so badly bent from normal usage that the gun wouldn't function without a very heavy trigger return spring.

[Bret4207]

Those old IJ's were the Mossbergs of their day- low dollar working mans guns. Put a little TLC into her and you'll be happy.

Drill bits work fine for a lot of things. One thing to watch is that some have their I.D. markings stamped into them which causes a raised area larger than the nominal diameter. Other than that I find the Harbor Freight type stuff to work fine, in fact you might need to soften them a little for best results as the Chinese tend to over temper some things.

[Lee]

WOW! Thanks for the replys. Much appreciated! Lee :smile: