Lotak = the perfect lube?

[leftiye]

I was brainstorming (also known as daydreaming) about bullit lubes this morning when this hit me.

What with Bullshop shooting 225107s at 3600 fps, and DrB shooting same boolit at 3300 fps from a K-Hornet, both using Lotak - is there anything more to be said about or needed from a boolit lube? Or has this accurately defined the high velocity boolit lube? And if it works elsewhere in other loading situations - is any other lube needed?

Your thoughts and opinions please.

[Love Life]

Lotak hard=Magic.

I tested it with the 454 Casull, 45 Colt, 357, 38 special, and 9mm. Had no leading and great accuracy. It is my go to lube and I will be sad when I run out. At least I have 2 pounds of Speed Green to fall back on.

[runfiverun]

how you gonna get it?
ain't no one heard from dan in two months.

[leftiye]

On another thread info was given as: Lotak = 3 to 1: bzwax to boolplate lube (= speed green) plus 2oz carnauba per Lb. As someone else said - what petroleum product doesn't burn at 700 degrees? (I took this to mean synthetic brake disc lube) Synthetic 2cycle chain saw oil is another candidate. The issue of how/where to get/make it isn't insurmountable.

This thread was started to explore what else a lube should do, or any shortcomings of Lotak. Not by way of being critical of lotak, but does it qualify as an "ultimate loob".

[randyrat]

I think you can still write to Bull Shop and order what you need....I plan on trading with him. Hopefully I will have some more Sprue Plate lube soon. I have a life time supply for myself, but I could supply a few with it if needed. Yes Lotak is good stuff.

[Love Life]

I think you can still write to Bull Shop and order what you need....I plan on trading with him. Hopefully I will have some more Sprue Plate lube soon. I have a life time supply for myself, but I could supply a few with it if needed. Yes Lotak is good stuff.

Do yo have a life time supply of bullplate or lotak? If it is Lotak then I would love to take some off of you hands.

[Ed in North Texas]

I think you can still write to Bull Shop and order what you need....I plan on trading with him. Hopefully I will have some more Sprue Plate lube soon. I have a life time supply for myself, but I could supply a few with it if needed. Yes Lotak is good stuff.

I sent an e-Mail a couple of weeks ago, haven't heard anything yet. But it is probably still time for putting stuff by to get through the winter, so that may not be unusual.

Ed

[randyrat]

Do yo have a life time supply of bullplate or lotak? If it is Lotak then I would love to take some off of you hands. No Lotak.... I have Bull Plate Sprue Lube

[DrB]

I don't know if it's "perfect", but the lotak soft worked without any grief re fouling. I really expected fouling issues, but it was easy as could be, without a hint of metal fouling. It's soft enough that I'd expect it to work at low velocity too, though I've never tried it. Probably not great for shipping commercial bullets, but the lube they use on those bullets doesn't always shoot that well, anyway.

I had wanted to try the exact load with another lube to see what happened, re fouling.

That's interesting about the formula. I've got beeswax laid by... Personally, I've seen a lot of hucksters whose wares never live up to billing. Dan's products I used were everything they were billed to be... And Dan was personable and helpful with advice that for me proved to be correct every time.

Point is, he earned my loyalty.... I'll be sorry if they stay shut down. I think tina and dan may be taking phoned orders though.

Best regards,
DrB

[cbrick]

If I am not mistaken, Lotak is speed green with carnuba wax added to it. Dan had posted it here at one time. I want to say it was 2 oz to standard speed green. Don't know if that was for Lotak soft or Lotak hard.

Searched for it and found the post from Dan

Originally Posted by Bullshop

Add two oz pure carnauba per pound of lube. Stay away from the parafin.

Pure carnauba flake is available from member Randyrat


Today I made a batch of Speed Green from Dan's instructions and then used this to make Lotak per the instructions in the above quoted post. It is the exact color of Speed Green, smells more like Carnuba and is a little firmer than Speed Green. Does this sound like Lotak to anyone that has bought & used it?

Now to empty one of the Stars, put in the maybe Lotak and lube some bullets. I figure at the worst I'll have a shiny bore from the Carnuba, the Speed Green works well so nothing to loose.

Rick

These are quotes from the other thread that leftiye mentioned, the second above quote is mine. It seems a bit strange that simply adding Carnuba to a good lube (Speed Green) would turn it into the super lube that folks are claiming it to be but I've tried stranger things than this.

Rick

[leftiye]

It is very possible that the coating of the barrel with the right stuff is the answer to what is a good lube. Super oil mixed into carnauba seems like it would be a very good coating. (maybe with a tad of moly?) Lube on a boolit probly does the next boolit down the tube more good than it does the one it is applied to.

I suspect that I might be trying to put too many ingredients in a lube. Ingredients that duplicate the same purpose should probly be weeded out to the best one for the given purpose. While bzwax can be left out completely, it is the premiere carrier of oils, etc.. Paraffin isn't even on my long list. It's not a lube.

[Arnie]

Any one ever use a grease called Taraux for bullet lube ? It was at one time ,maybe still is ,sold by a company in the SanFrancisco area of California . Arnie

[Love Life]

These are quotes from the other thread that leftiye mentioned, the second above quote is mine. It seems a bit strange that simply adding Carnuba to a good lube (Speed Green) would turn it into the super lube that folks are claiming it to be but I've tried stranger things than this.

Rick

I tried that CBrick and it in no way felt, smelled, or looked like Lotak Hard.

[Springfield]

Funny how everybody dumps on paraffin. I have found that is adds a little more body/strength to beeswax based lubes, keeps it from breaking up so easily and helps keep the lube in the grooves where it belongs. At least with BP it works great and it doesn't leave a gooey mess like everyone seems to think it will. Works fine in my wifes smokeless cowboy loads also.

[cbrick]

It is very possible that the coating of the barrel with the right stuff is the answer to what is a good lube. Lube on a boolit probly does the next boolit down the tube more good than it does the one it is applied to.

Could very well be. I have heard for years to put a light coating of oil in the bore of a sqeaky clean bore before firing the first shot but have never done it. I just did a thorough cleaning of my 308 rifle and used the bore scope to make sure it is sqeaky clean. You would be amazed at how much lead can be in a bore after cleaning and looking down the bore with the naked eye and it looks perfect, the bore scope reveals the thruth. Next time out I will swab the bore with a very light coating of Bull Plate and shoot the PB bullet that put the lead in the bore last time.


I tried that CBrick and it in no way felt, smelled, or looked like Lotak Hard.

Well, until Dan returns this is what I have. No idea if this will be better/worse or the same as straight Speed Green but I started with 1/2 pound of yellow beeswax and the appropriate percentage of other ingrediants and that made 6 sticks. Gonna put it in one of the Stars and give'er a go with the above mentioned Bull Plate swabed bore. This new lube is much like Speed Green except a little firmer and the smell of Carnuba, kind of what I expected.

Rick

[357maximum]

Springfield,

Best be careful there spinning tales like that or lest you too be inducted into the Heresy Hall of Fame. I shoot paraffin, mineral oil, and petroleum jelly in front stuffers all the time so I must me nuts too. I also like some parrafin in my smokeless lubes.

sincerely,
Member #12 HHoF

[runfiverun]

parrafin is a good carrier for many of the liquid type lubes.
it just has smaller holes to carry it in than b-wax does.
i have also had good luck adding castor oil to many lubes by mixing with lanolin first and then mixing it in melted parrafin before soft mixing with the b-wax.
i keep my b-wax to parrafin ratio under 60-40 though.
viscosity and malleability quite often have more to do with how good a lube is than the ingredients unless they are incompatible.