Ported Barrels and Cast Boolits

[OnHoPr]

I've heard good and bad of ported barrels and cast boolits. Could you giver me a opinion of the pros and cons of this combination or unison? Maybe good or bad results or experiences? Consider soft, hard, PB, and gas check versions.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Only ported barrel I have is a caliber .41 mag Taurus Titanium 4 ". I do not shoot it alot when up north there. Put maybe 50 rounds through it monthly. 210 graines (50-50) at 950 fps with Unique. I find no big issues. I run a pipe cleaner through those little holes when I first shoot it to get the motor oil out (storage) then again whenever I clean the barrel (200 rounds) . Maybe a high pressure load would cause more goop to get in there.
Mike in Peru

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i have mag-na-ports on my 454 casull and on my 17" bull barrel 308 win
Encore barrels and have a brake on a contender 44mag barrel
tey work fine no leading as of yet if that what you were asking
and they shoot good

[excess650]

I have one of the Marlin 1894CP 16-1/4" barrel, ported in 357mag. The ports haven't been an issue with hardcast plainbase or gas checked. To be honest, other than the barrel being shorter than my (3)other 1894c (s), its just LOUDER. The 18-1/2" non-ported is noticeably quieter.

[BruceB]

My Savage 116 in .338 HAD an "on-off" brake. That is, the brake has a rotating sleeve which either covers the barrel vents, or exposes them....at the shooter's option.

A couple dozen cast-bullet loads IMMOBILIZED the brake, fortunately in the "on" position.

Nothing I've tried has freed the brake sleeve to rotate. I once left it for a WEEK, standing on its muzzle with the brake completely immersed in penetrating oil. Nada.

The rifle shoots Barnes TSX bullets exceedingly well....three-shot 100-yard groups are routinely at or below 1/2". With performance like that, I've just written-off this rifle as a cast-bullet shooter....I can live with it!

[LUCKYDAWG13]

[QUOTE=BruceB;1431127]My Savage 116 in .338 HAD an "on-off" brake. That is, the brake has a rotating sleeve which either covers the barrel vents, or exposes them....at the shooter's option.

A couple dozen cast-bullet loads IMMOBILIZED the brake, fortunately in the "on" position.

Nothing I've tried has freed the brake sleeve to rotate. I once left it for a WEEK, standing on its muzzle with the brake completely immersed in penetrating oil. Nada.

i bet if you put some heat on that brake it would turn

[PbHurler]

My Marlin 1895 Guide Gun is / was factory ported. I've fired mainly gas checked bullets from 20:1 alloy's to quenched W.W. I size @ .459" and there's been no issues at all regarding the porting. (aside from cleaning the carbon by-product off the outside of the Bbl. after a day at the range). I also shoot a 6" S&W 629 that's been Magnaported. I shoot an alloy of about 14 bnh (calculated, not tested) in both P.B. and G.C'd, again no issues other than needing to clean the Bbl around the porting after a shoot.

[bigted]

[QUOTE=BruceB;1431127]My Savage 116 in .338 HAD an "on-off" brake. That is, the brake has a rotating sleeve which either covers the barrel vents, or exposes them....at the shooter's option.

A couple dozen cast-bullet loads IMMOBILIZED the brake, fortunately in the "on" position.

Nothing I've tried has freed the brake sleeve to rotate. I once left it for a WEEK, standing on its muzzle with the brake completely immersed in penetrating oil. Nada.

i bet if you put some heat on that brake it would turn


another suggestion is straight turpentine. maybe that will break your stuborn brake free...id be hesitant to put heat to it but ....its your rifle.

also if your barrel/brake is stainless i would as a last resort imerse it in windex made with with vinegar instead of amonia and lastly i would resort to straight vinegar.

i had a 338 with those holes in the barrel proper and it took all the bite out of the full power loads but then i tryed it without my ear-muffs on and went rite home and cut the sucker off and never looked back....my 375 ruger was the very same ... off it came after experiencing the hunting like shot without ear protection. these rifles are needlessly powerfull for the animules i have contact with...i like the slow,,,heavy ,,, large in diameter boolits that will gouge a punch thru these animals without launching a part of my spirit with the dang shot.

good luck loosening your brake...if that is you want it lose.

[MGySgt]

I have an original 1895 Guide Gun with the ports - shooting from the bench I use ear plugs and muffs.

The first time I dropped the hammer on an Elk I couldn't hear in my left ear for 3 days. I now use a Walkers Game ear in my left ear when I am hunting with the Guide Gun.

[Ramslammer]

G'Day All
I have a 1894p which I was using on Wallaby. The problem with ports and CB's is that the port shaves lead off. I had a slither of lead hit my mate (TasyTed off this forum) and it cut his face like a knife.
This doesn't affect accuracy in any way in, fact the rifle shoots really well but it's unsafe when we are spotlighting. So I just had to go out and buy a .35ssLtd to use.
Juddy

[pls1911]

Big Ted 's comment is spot on regarding"needlessly powerfull"...
That's why I shoot cast in a 30-30 or 45-70.
Either round still goes bang , and launches with enough authority to drop anything I'll shoot at up through Elk, and it's easy on the body and the ears.
I will confess to having a stainless GuideGun with ports. At the bench under the roof, even with mild hunting loads it's LOUD. In the field, I still prefer some protection, but can tolerate 2-3 shots pretty easily. The Roller or Sharps? SHHHH... about like the 30-30 with a deeper voice.
The 30-30 in carbine or rifle length barrel? NADA... it's not bad at all.

[bobthenailer]

i have several guns magnaported , and one with a SSK muzzel brake and 4 more with compensators and theres no problem with them except shooting cast except with the comps they will build up some lead in the comp body but if you shoot full pressure loads with gas checked cast or jacketed bullets with slow burning pistol powder it will blast it out in a few shots or more if you let it build up too much.
The other draw backs is being noiser and slight lead build up on the sides of the front sight base on revolvers , i usually use a real copper penney PRE 1982 to remove it with no damage to the gun.

[gman82001]

I have an original 1895 Guide Gun with the ports - shooting from the bench I use ear plugs and muffs.

The first time I dropped the hammer on an Elk I couldn't hear in my left ear for 3 days. I now use a Walkers Game ear in my left ear when I am hunting with the Guide Gun.


That's funny we were moving from rock to Rock this year an finally got to within 100yds at the last big cluster of rocks I ended up firing 3 shots with my gg before my bull felt he had enough both me and my buddy yelled for 2 days cause it was so loud I'm now looking for some electronic hearing protection for hunting as well

[bigted]

G'Day All
I have a 1894p which I was using on Wallaby. The problem with ports and CB's is that the port shaves lead off. I had a slither of lead hit my mate (TasyTed off this forum) and it cut his face like a knife.
This doesn't affect accuracy in any way in, fact the rifle shoots really well but it's unsafe when we are spotlighting. So I just had to go out and buy a .35ssLtd to use.
Juddy

im thinkin that there may be sumtin wrong with yer porting if it shaves lead from yer bullet. my understanding is that a porting/suppressor should never contact the bullet and if it does it needs to be dealt with forth with!! the holes in a ported barrel may spit lube from the bullet and maybe some spent powder but NEVER///NEVER lead. ive had 357 revolvers shave lead from the forcing cone [ slightly outta time ] but never had any spit from the side of the end of a rifle barrel...this absolutely needs looked at if this is actually happening. it will be a barrel obstruction and worse yet stander-bys may get injured such that they will never recover from the wound...think eyeball or ear .

not tryin to be a turd but seriously...please have this condition resolved before shooting this gun any more.

[mainiac]

My Savage 116 in .338 HAD an "on-off" brake. That is, the brake has a rotating sleeve which either covers the barrel vents, or exposes them....at the shooter's option.

A couple dozen cast-bullet loads IMMOBILIZED the brake, fortunately in the "on" position.

Nothing I've tried has freed the brake sleeve to rotate. I once left it for a WEEK, standing on its muzzle with the brake completely immersed in penetrating oil. Nada.

The rifle shoots Barnes TSX bullets exceedingly well....three-shot 100-yard groups are routinely at or below 1/2". With performance like that, I've just written-off this rifle as a cast-bullet shooter....I can live with it!

If ya brake is stuck,,then all ya need to do,is soak it in break-free,,,silly goose!

Actually,i aint got nothing to add...............ill crawl back under my rock now.

[Ramslammer]

G'Day
As bobthenailer said
"The other draw backs is being noiser and slight lead build up on the sides of the front sight base on revolvers , i usually use a real copper penney PRE 1982 to remove it with no damage to the gun. "
I'm not the only one with lead escaping. The porting is cut into the gun like mangaporting so it goes straight through the barrel wall. I was going to back bore it but as I stated I stopped using it in situations where it was unsafe. The problem is (in my opinion) the ports on the side, the upper ports would blow stuff that direction and obiviously the side ones spit sideways.
I can assure you Bigted safety is first and foremost in my mind, the gun doesn't accumulate any fouling around the ports so there is no obstruction issues.
I shot some macropods with it on thursday sure does put them on the ground quick.
Juddy