Ben
10-05-2011, 01:58 PM
You'll often times get molds that either have a g/c shank that is too small and the g/cs fit loose on the shank after the bullet and g/c shank have been run through the sizer..............OR ...............the opposite, the g/c shank is too large and it is the " Devil " to get a g/c to slide up on the shank.
I had a mold that has been in the box for about 20 yrs. I have 3 different Lee, 312- 155 2 R molds. This one is a single cav. mold. A joy to cast with, speed isn't my game with this particular bullet. Accuracy is my game with this one. It is a shooter in my hvy. barrel VZ-24 , 308 Win. The fact that it is a single cav. mold just adds to the probability of minimal weight deviation , bullet to bullet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/IMG_1075.jpg
A g/c shank on ANY .30 cal. mold needs to be a minimum of .284 and sometimes .285 or .286 will work even better to guarantee a tight locking fit with a Hornady g/c.
I cast a few today with the new ( 20 yr. old ) mold. I cast about 10 ea. and went to my bench to measure all the critical numbers. Everything looked real good except the dia. of the gas check shank. Way too small !
Miked about .281 "..............I needed another .004 .
I have enlarged g/c shanks before and used this method. If you choose to use this method with your mold. GO SLOW ! Once metal is removed in the g/c shank area, it cannot be replaced.
I take a wooden dowel that is turned to fit the g/c shank area of the mold and slit it down the center. I cut a strip of 220 grit sand paper and fit it into the slot. It may take a little bit of trial and error to get the dowel diameter and the addition of the paper cut the correct length to fit snug in the g/c shank area of the mold. Be certain that you don't enlarge the rear most drive band. All you want is to enlarge is the g/c shank area only.
I turn the dowel by hand , removing about .002 at a time. Stop everything and go the the casting pot and pour 3 bullets. Check the shank dia. with a dependable mic. It may take 5 or 6 of these sessions to reach the dia. that you want. The key again is to do it slow. Once you've taken too much metal out, you're in a world of hurt. The mold is basically ruined.
This technique really helped my mold today. Now when a g/c is placed on the shank , it " clicks". A nice snug fit.
See photos.
Ben
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/020.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/022.jpg
I had a mold that has been in the box for about 20 yrs. I have 3 different Lee, 312- 155 2 R molds. This one is a single cav. mold. A joy to cast with, speed isn't my game with this particular bullet. Accuracy is my game with this one. It is a shooter in my hvy. barrel VZ-24 , 308 Win. The fact that it is a single cav. mold just adds to the probability of minimal weight deviation , bullet to bullet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/IMG_1075.jpg
A g/c shank on ANY .30 cal. mold needs to be a minimum of .284 and sometimes .285 or .286 will work even better to guarantee a tight locking fit with a Hornady g/c.
I cast a few today with the new ( 20 yr. old ) mold. I cast about 10 ea. and went to my bench to measure all the critical numbers. Everything looked real good except the dia. of the gas check shank. Way too small !
Miked about .281 "..............I needed another .004 .
I have enlarged g/c shanks before and used this method. If you choose to use this method with your mold. GO SLOW ! Once metal is removed in the g/c shank area, it cannot be replaced.
I take a wooden dowel that is turned to fit the g/c shank area of the mold and slit it down the center. I cut a strip of 220 grit sand paper and fit it into the slot. It may take a little bit of trial and error to get the dowel diameter and the addition of the paper cut the correct length to fit snug in the g/c shank area of the mold. Be certain that you don't enlarge the rear most drive band. All you want is to enlarge is the g/c shank area only.
I turn the dowel by hand , removing about .002 at a time. Stop everything and go the the casting pot and pour 3 bullets. Check the shank dia. with a dependable mic. It may take 5 or 6 of these sessions to reach the dia. that you want. The key again is to do it slow. Once you've taken too much metal out, you're in a world of hurt. The mold is basically ruined.
This technique really helped my mold today. Now when a g/c is placed on the shank , it " clicks". A nice snug fit.
See photos.
Ben
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/020.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/VZ%2024%20Flutted/022.jpg