Winchester M70

[Taylor]

I'm not sure if this is the right place...but, I haven't shot this rifle yet.Got it from my brother about a year ago. My wife bought me a Leupold Rifleman to go on it.Yesterday I decided to bore sight it,at about 20 yards.I needed to make an adjustment to bring the cross hairs to the right.There was not enough adjustment to be had.I'm sure at a 100 yards it will be out of the question.Does this seem right?The bore sight wasn't bent,I checked that.The rings are Leupold,the twist and lock type.

[pmer]

You could double check your bore siting by taking out the bolt and setting the rifles bore on an object 100 yards away. Then move the cross hairs of the scope to that same object. I've allways been able to get on paper this way.

[Ben]

Taylor

Where the rear scope base fits the receiver - - - - Are their two screws that hold the scope ring in place , similar to the photo below ?

If so, these are the windage screws, there is more than enough adjustment in those 2 screws to zero your scope.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_4414e8a37cfaedd5.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=2338)

[405]

Taylor,
Ben is absolutely right if his picture matches your rear base.

Another thing to do before proceeding is to "center" the scope's windage adjustment first then bore sight with the base's windage adjustment. Then, when on paper when shooting, do the fine adjustments with the scope's elevation and windage adjustments.

To find the "center" of the scope's windage adjustment range. Turn the windage knob with care all the way in one direction until it stops (don't force it past the stop- do this gently!). Then, while counting the number of lines, increments, tics or whatever the scope has, turn the knob all the way the other direction until is stops. Record that number. Then turn the knob back 1/2 the way towards the opposite stop. That will "center" the scope's windage. Then bore sight using the windage in the base.

Also, I agree with pmer. With bolt guns and some single shots, I much prefer removing the bolt and using the bore to bore sight. Even with lever guns I use a small skinny mirror to use the bore to bore sight.

[shotman]

He said twist lock he will need a center set to get them to work . Trash the rings and go to the screw set like pic or better is a set of weaver

[Hardcast416taylor]

I`m with Ben and 405 about adjusting the rear base screws besides checking the crosshair movement while adjusting those rear base screws for crosshair movement. Odds are you have one of the adjusting screws all the way in to the mount. Another thing is have someone that has mounted scopes with this type mount help you out.Robert

[Ben]

Taylor


The bore sight wasn't bent,I checked that

I'm a little confused with what you mean with this ?
Are you saying the metallic sights on the barrel are not bent ?

Ben

[Heavy lead]

Confused too, seems like you used a mechanical bore sight from your language, but at 20 yards?
Mechanical bore sights can be usefull, but always with a bolt gun, or anything else you can look down the bore through I've found it faster and more useful. I usually just boresight at 25 yards, fire one shot and adjust the scope to the bullet hole, then move to 100 yards.
I have a Model 700 7 mag that was drilled a little out of whack, I usually use Weaver type bases and rings, and was off on windage, so rather than keep it that way, I purchased a set of Weaver rings (Weaver brand, they do make them) with windage adjustments. Scopes always work better when in the middle of the adjustments settings if possible IME.
If you do have the standard type Leupold mounts as Ben showed you already have your answer. If they are dual dovetail, the only option is to buy Burris Signature rings and the special concnetric offset inserts.

[JDFuchs]

I've noticed how some bore sights can be a magnet attached to the crown of the barrel, even if its not a magnet it may (head space, for lack of a better term) on the crown. So if the crown is warn down tho not to the rifling, the bore sight will be off.

[Ben]

All the more reason to look down the bore. If you do that , you WON'T be off ! !

[Taylor]

I live in a sub-division and 20 yards is about all I have.It has served me OK in the past,it does get me on paper.The bore sight is the type that is inserted into the barrel at the muzzle end,(walmart).

Ben,you are correct,that is the rear base I have.I will proceed as per your instructions!Thanks.
The front base has the twist-lock.

Thanks guy's,it just never occured to me to adjust from the base screws,thought they were to only lock it in place.

[winelover]

I bore site all my new guns at 10 yds. Don't own or need a collimator. Lay rifle in gun cleaning cradle, on pool table, and bore site the target on opposite wall. Gets me on paper and that's all I require.

Winelover

[Gtek]

I have ben a 70 fan for a long time, I am also in the Burbs. 70's have a flat bottom, remove from stock and lay on large level and supporting front with what is needed. I use the neighbor across the street garage door which is perfectly level. This allows for reticle level set, then run windage in scope full swing. Whatever dial or knob cut in half. I believe Rifleman have disc, still look at it and count turns. Now scope is centered use door handle to bore scope. I am usually no more than a couple clicks at 25 to center. First shot, if you can set up rifle on bench, center reticle on target and move reticle to hole. Three shots you are usually busting center. Gtek

[Ben]

HOW TO BORE SIGHT A RIFLE

By Chuck Hawks


1. Select a safe object approximately 100 yards away that the rifle can be pointed at. A birds nest in a bare tree, or a light brick in a brick wall, something like that.

2. Place the rifle in a reasonably steady rest, right side up. At the range you can use sandbags or a shooting rest. At home you can use an MTM rifle cleaning rest, or a cardboard box with a couple of bricks in the bottom to keep it in place and a "V" shaped notch cut in each end to hold the rifle.

3. Open the action if it is a single shot rifle, or remove the bolt from the rifle if it is a bolt action. Take out the screw that the lever pivots on to remove the bolt from a Marlin lever action. You must be able to see down the barrel from the breech end to bore sight your rifle. Some rifles, mostly autoloaders and pumps, cannot be bore sighted by this method.

4. Look through the barrel of the rifle from the breech end and move the fixture holding the rifle (the cardboard box or whatever) until the object selected in step #1 is centered in the field of view.

5. Then, without moving the rifle, adjust your scope so that the crosshair is aligned on the same object. Your rifle is now bore sighted at approximately 100 yards.

This does not mean that your rifle is sighted in for 100 yards, but when you go to the range to sight in your rifle, you should at least hit the paper at the preliminary distance of 25 yards. After you refine the adjustment of the scope to hit the center of the target at 25 yards, move to a 100-yard target and finish sighting in your rifle. With most high intensity cartridges used for big game hunting, the point of impact should be about 3" high at 100 yards.

[pietro]

[I live in a sub-division and 20 yards is about all I have]

So have I - Have you considered boresighting from INSIDE one of the rooms of your home, using a neighbor's prominent window shutter's square edge as a POA ?

I've easily gotten 100yd boresights regularly, like that, prior to leaving for the range.

Safety isn't an issue, with the bolt removed for boresighting.

Just make sure you have good medical coverage, though -
You're going to need it if you get gun oil on a bedspread ! ;) :happy dance:

.

[Taylor]

Pietro--actually I did something like that.It really upset the nieghbor! But 20 yards does me fine.As it turns out,all that was needed was to tweak the front ring.