T/C flinter shoots

[405]

2-3 weeks back I added a post to the thread about going prices for used T/C sidelocks. At that time I had just purchased an early 70s T/C flinter in near pristine condition for 250.00. Being that it was an early T/C I ran the lock thru the drill. As per usual with those it had the old style cock & frizzen and didn't spark as it should. I called T/C, ordered a new style cock, upper jaw w/ screw and the upgraded frizzen- about $30 sumthin. Just got the cock in so headed to the range this morning. Put a slightly worn English flint in and had iffy spark % but did get it sighted for 50 yards. What the hey, flints only last so long- so put in a new flint and shot three more times to see what accuracy potential the thing has.

55 gr. FFg Wano, FFFFg primer, .012" patch w/ moose milk and .490 ball. Bingo! This 280.00 flint gun does shoot! .65" @ 50 yds.

[scattershot]

Congrats on your find. Has T/C discontinued the free upgrade program for those? I thought they'd do it for free.

[405]

Congrats on your find. Has T/C discontinued the free upgrade program for those? I thought they'd do it for free.

Even though my herd is full of muzzleloaders- the last two early T/C sidelocks (one caplock and this one a flinter) I've run across in excellent condition from the early 70s have been right at 250.00 ea so no way to pass them up. And like all factory T/C sidelocks most can benefit from some fine tuning- bedding/truing the tang, part of the barrel and the lock plate. Also, some are a little rough so need a little honing/truing of the contact surfaces of the tumbler and sear.

Since it is now Smith & Wesson/Thompson Center I don't know if the program is still valid and if it is, not sure if it honors other than than the original owner. I didn't even ask about it when I called in the order. I would have had to send in the lock, then hoped they would replace the parts I knew were the problem (old style cock and frizzen). The cost was really reasonable for the upgrade and I had the parts in about 8 days after ordering.

[Geraldo]

I sent a flint lock back to TC a few years ago, and they replaced some parts, but not the frizzen. I actually wanted to buy the parts, but the woman on the phone talked me into sending it back. YMMV.

405, can you post pics or instructions on how you bedded your TCs?

[405]

405, can you post pics or instructions on how you bedded your TCs?

Really, the tang and barrel bedding is pretty much standard no matter the ML. The hooked breech types take a little more thought but it's not hard to do at all. The lock plate bedding is also optional.

Will do. But, up to eyeballs in company right now so if I can't get to it this weekend, will take a pic or two and get back to this thread early next week.

[Geraldo]

Really, the tang and barrel bedding is pretty much standard no matter the ML. The hooked breech types take a little more thought but it's not hard to do at all. The lock plate bedding is also optional.

Will do. But, up to eyeballs in company right now so if I can't get to it this weekend, will take a pic or two and get back to this thread early next week.


Thanks. I'm sure it isn't hard, but I'm a "monkey-see, monkey" do kind of guy.

[pietro]

You were fortunate to get sidehammer parts outta the "new" S&W/TC - especially what with S&W "consolidating" all T/C "stuff" to Springfield, MA.

.

[405]

405, can you post pics or instructions on how you bedded your TCs?

Geraldo,
There are many ways to bed a barrel/action. I just did this gun one way... and it seems to work well. This is not the 'end all, be all' of bedding instructions! But, hope it helps.

The idea with any bedding is to provide a stable, stress free platform. Plus as a bonus it usually adds strength.

I use a basic Dremel type tool with a couple of cutters- a rounded end cutter and a ball cutter with a 1/16" head. Also, I use flat files and small files, sand paper and once in a while small wood chisels.

First the tang and barrel have to be mated so there is no wobble between them. I use a flat file and with care dress each for a good fit. Take too much metal off and the hooked-in fit may be too loose. Then I glue them together with a thin coat of epoxy so that the flats are lined up- let the epoxy set up for a strong bond. During the barrel bedding process the lock should be installed... so strip the lock down to just the plate. Straighten, true-up and dress the plate edges where they fit into the stock inlet. I use modeling clay or play doh to fill the gaps behind the tang where the hook fits through... so compound won't get in there.

I bed the entire tang and behind it along with about 2" +/- of the barrel in front of the tang. I also bed about an inch of the barrel just in front of the wedge (dark bedding patch in pic). Some bed the entire barrel but I don't think it's needed with the thick, stiff T/C barrels. I use the rotary tools to remove a thin layer of wood where I want the bedding pad to be. I use the ball head to put a few shallow holes in the wood for a better bond. I use JPW as a release agent for all metal that may contact the bedding compound- barrel, tang, tang screws and lock plate. I like Acraglas regular or JB Weld regular for bedding compound.

I bedded the barrel/tang as a unit first let set up overnight then bedded the plate the next day. Add just enough compound to the relieved areas in the wood so little or no excess oozes out. I use small, thin popcycle sticks and toothpicks to apply the compound. Keep alcohol and a rag handy. Set the barrel/tang unit in the bedding gently and push in barrel wedge and snug down the tang screws.... not too tight on the screws.

One thing about the T/C locks I've noticed is that the end of the main spring and part of the tumbler may stick down below the edge of the plate and hit the wood in the inlet... no wonder some say coil mainsprings are slower than flat or hairpin springs! When bedding the lock be sure to relieve any contact with wood if the spring or tumbler are making contact. I use the same cutters to relieve that wood. Location is under arrow in one pic and one pic shows the spring and tumbler protruding below lock plate. When bedding the plate just snug with the plate screw is about right and watch the outside perimeter of the plate for eveness of depth.

After bedding sets up (overnight) gently pop parts out and dress up any excess bedding ooze or sprue with file, cutter tool or sand paper. When bedding the plate pay attention to the contact with the barrel.... the barrel is the alignment index and depth gauge for the plate. When finished heat the tang and it will pop right off the barrel then scrape off excess epoxy where they were glued together and clean out any modeling clay. Re-assemble the lock and put everything together to check fit and dress/relieve any areas of bedding or wood contact with moving lock parts.

Once the 2-part compound is mixed you'll have some time to apply and make sure of amounts and coverage. Pre-plan the steps before mixing the compound and starting the application.

[Geraldo]

405, fine tutorial and just what I needed. Thanks.