Savage 110 Trigger

[rtracy2001]

I have two Savage model 110s (pre-Accutrigger) one in 30-06 and another in .243 Win, and the trigger pull weight is horendous on both rifles. The actual pull is OK, just way too stiff. I noticed when I was sighting in the little 243 that I had to pull so hard that my finger started shaking. This did not help the grouping at all.

The long term solution seems to be a Timeney (sp?) drop in unit, but they run around $100 or more, so I need to wait a bit. Is there anything I can do as a stopgap?

P.S.

I picked up the .243 used and had to play with the trigger adjusting screws a bit because the safety would not re-engagge unless you opened the bolt. (you could close the bolt, engage the safety and it would be just fine unless you took the safety off for some reason, then you couldn't put the safety back on unless you opened the bolt, also if you thumped the butstock against a hard object with the safety on it would discharge.) It works now, no chance of firing from a dropped rifle and you can engae - disengage - re-engage the safety without opening the bolt.

[GabbyM]

http://www.switchbarrel.com/Savage%20110%20Trigger%20Adjustment.htm

Above is a link to instructions on Savage 110 trigger adjustment. Hope that helps.

[duckndawg]

the older 110 triggers are adjustable

[Three44s]

What I did with my two 110 actions was I joined the savageshoooters forum and bought the Savage three screw trigger from a couple of other members.

When we did my wife's 110 (prior to the above projects) she bought the rifle basix trigger.

For the money I say you would be very happy with a savage three screw and at most a bit of tweaking (the lighter music wire spring) that costs pennies! I have not had to change the springs though it's easy.

Those used triggers will generally be found for 25 to 30 dollars each ....... to use the member classified at shooters to have access to them you would be out 12 bucks for a year. The reason members will let their's go is they are moving up to more expensive units, mostly above the price line of the Timney.

Now, I am fussy about triggers but @ 2 pounds on one of my three screws and about 2 3/4 on the other one and reliable ......... I am happy! I am not thinking about any further upgrades at this time and if I did ....... I would start with the lighter music wire first.

One word of caution! If you join ......... you'll likely start accumuating barrels .......... so BE CAREFUL! Get your triggers and RUN AWAY .......... LOL!!

Best regards

Three 44s

[DCM]

http://www.switchbarrel.com/Savage%20110%20Trigger%20Adjustment.htm

Above is a link to instructions on Savage 110 trigger adjustment. Hope that helps.

+1! Thoroughly clean, adjust carefully, LIGHTLY lube, dry fire repeatedly, range test. It will cost you nothing but a little time if you are patient.

If you plan on hunting with it keep adrenaline in mind when adjusting it. Please be honest and reasonable with yourself!

[Hardcast416taylor]

I got the first Timmney trigger released to the public. I put it on a M 111 Savage in .223. I have adjusted that trigger down to just over 2 lb. for my varmit shooting. When I first got that rifle it had about a 15 lb. gritty trigger that actually made your finger hurt if more than 6 shots were fired. Took about a year of calling Timmney and being promised the first production release model. It cost $75 with shipping included.Robert

[rtracy2001]

http://www.switchbarrel.com/Savage%20110%20Trigger%20Adjustment.htm

Above is a link to instructions on Savage 110 trigger adjustment. Hope that helps.

Finally got a chance to sit down and read that writeup. It looks like just the ticket to start (and maybe finish) with. I was unaware that the factiry trigger could be adjusted down to 3 lbs. That level is about perfect for a hunting rifle IMO.

Thanks GabbyM

Don't have any dry Moly lubricant, suppose graphite will work, or should I just round some Moly up?

[GabbyM]

Up there in Idaho it gets cold enough to make grease solid if you actually take your rifle out in that weather. So the dry lube would be a good thing. ATF mixed 50/50 with K1 Kerosene is pretty good cold weather lube. I’ve a can of something called dry slide here from thirty or forty years back which is Molly in solvent that evaporates. Molly is pretty minimal lube by itself but it will keep things running short term. What it comes down to is any thing operating at temps below 20F isn’t going to last all that long with the best of care.

I use lots of grease on my guns. In theory I store them oiled light then grease them up at the range before shooting then flush all that out when I clean. Here it is October so it’s time to rinse off my rifle bolts just in case they end up in a car trunk to chill out.

[OlManDow]

Doesn't look like anybody pointed out the excellent Savage trigger from Sharp Shooter Supply. We have installed dozens for delighted Savage owners - even to replace the Accutrigger for those guys wanting a dependable trigger that can be set down into the ounces area instead of pounds.

[rtracy2001]

Doesn't look like anybody pointed out the excellent Savage trigger from Sharp Shooter Supply. We have installed dozens for delighted Savage owners - even to replace the Accutrigger for those guys wanting a dependable trigger that can be set down into the ounces area instead of pounds.

I now have that site bookmarked, thanks. The only problem I see with them (the site) is that they tend to cater to short action receivers. I nearly had a mess to clean up when I saw the ACME magazine conversion, but it appears to be available for the short action only.

GabbyM:

My go-to dry lubricant is either a nice powdered graphite, or I will "color" the parts with a lead pencil. I have seen Neolube #2 (graphite disolved in isopropanol) at McMaster Carr, we use that stuff at work for a lot of things. McMaster may have a nice moly based lubricant to try too. I'll have to check.