paint stripper

[rollmyown]

Does anyone know if paintstripper is harmful to blue?

If it is harmful, how would you tackle it? - Saw a bubba'd rifle that would look 100% with some TLC. It's cheap enough, and might be a fun project.

[flounderman]

I take it you want to take what looks like paint off the metal. it is probably duracoat and that is an epoxy. I wouldn't bet on paint remover working if that is the case

[rollmyown]

I think it's a polyurathane finish. Not realy sure, I'd have to take another look. Some blued parts had a coat too.

[largom]

If it's cheap enough just buy it. If bluing comes off you can apply Duracoat yourself for about $25.00 and it does a great job.

Larry

[ilcop22]

Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover

or

Hoppes Quick Clean Rust and Lead Remover Cloth

The latter worked wonderfully on removing the blueing from a project of mine.

[rollmyown]

Seems I may not have been clear enough with my question. The blue was good, and I would prefer not to dammage or remove it. Just wondered if the paint stripper would take off the polyurathane finnish, and whether it would strip or remove blue.

[Molly]

Seems I may not have been clear enough with my question. The blue was good, and I would prefer not to dammage or remove it. Just wondered if the paint stripper would take off the polyurathane finnish, and whether it would strip or remove blue.

Depends on the type of stripper. Some are acid based. Use MEK, MIBK or M-Pyrrol based strippers, and you'll be fine.

[DCM]

Acetone works wonders on poly and extremely fast! It should be used it in a well ventilated area away from flames and sparks.

It will dry out any oil around it too so I would keep it away from the metal unless you are going to re oil it IMMEDIATELY.

[Molly]

Acetone works wonders on poly and extremely fast! It should be used it in a well ventilated area away from flames and sparks.

It will dry out any oil around it too so I would keep it away from the metal unless you are going to re oil it IMMEDIATELY.

Acetone is a potent solvent, but it is VERY flammable. Methylene Chloride is a better stripper solvent, and non-flammable. Both are so fast evaporating that they are difficult to work with under most circumstances. I used them for years. MEK is slower evaporating, MIBK is slower yet, and M-Pyrrol (methyl pyrrolidone) is still a strong stripper solvent (used commercially at 100%) and very slow evaporating, making it very easy to use.

Your caution about removing oils is a good one that I should have mentioned above. But I suggest the use of butyl rubber gloves to keep any of these solvent from stripping the oils out of your skin as the primary concern. Your skin can get brittle, crack and peel off of your hands. While it is doing so, it will 'grab' like velcro at your clothing and a lot of other materials. It is MOST uncomfortable. Take my word for it.

[DCM]

Acetone is a potent solvent, but it is VERY flammable. Methylene Chloride is a better stripper solvent, and non-flammable. Both are so fast evaporating that they are difficult to work with under most circumstances. I used them for years. MEK is slower evaporating, MIBK is slower yet, and M-Pyrrol (methyl pyrrolidone) is still a strong stripper solvent (used commercially at 100%) and very slow evaporating, making it very easy to use.

Your caution about removing oils is a good one that I should have mentioned above. But I suggest the use of butyl rubber gloves to keep any of these solvent from stripping the oils out of your skin as the primary concern. Your skin can get brittle, crack and peel off of your hands. While it is doing so, it will 'grab' like velcro at your clothing and a lot of other materials. It is MOST uncomfortable. Take my word for it.

All very sound advice.

[flounderman]

if you are careful, 000 steel wool and an oil like kroil will remove rust and other things from the metal, but you have to be careful not to go too deep or you will thin the blue or remove it. good polyurethane will resist sandpaper. just have to try working on it where it doesn't show to test whatever you use.

[W.R.Buchanan]

First take the stock off the gun. That way you don't have to worry about getting the striopper on the blue.

I just used regular paint stripper (from any hardware store)on the stocks on my Marlin with a poly finish. I had no luck with Acetone at all.

It removes all the goo in about 15-20 minutes, use a plastic putty knife to scrape the majority of snot off the stock, and then sand with 220, 360, and if you want 400-600. If you are using an oil finish like tru-oil you don't need to go past 360 as you will be sanding and steelwooling many times.

Look at my thread in the "Leverguns" area about refinishing my Marlin .45-70.

Randy

[rollmyown]

Many thanks guys for the great advice.

[OlManDow]

Cheap! Quick! Dependable! Won't attack bluing! Warm the metal parts in the sun, spray 'em with Dow oven cleaner from the supermarket. Wash it off, dry and oil..

Careful using it on wood; it can eat right into the wood.i