Time for a new 357 Mag, but which one?

[Love Life]

Well I had a S&W 327 PC TRR8 which is an 8 shot 357 mag/38 special revolver with a scandium alloy frame. Well long story short I bought it in April and shot it loose shooting nothing but 38 Spl+p in 6 months (several thousand). It started spitting lead, and then started leading the flutes on the cylinder.

Now to my current dilemma. I am now looking for a new revolver and I am not sure which one to get. This revolver will be shot ALOT with 38 spl, 38 spl+p, and 357 magnum. Not only that, but it will also be my hiking, prospecting,fishing, etc gun. At this time all S&W revolvers are NOT in the running so here is what I have it boiled down to.

Ruger security six
Ruger GP100
Ruger Blackhawk

I am looking for the revolver to have adjustable sites and be very strong, yet not cost a bajillion dollars. If you know of good candidates that I am missing please let me know.

Well members which one would you choose based off of the criteria set and why? Once again S&W is NOT on my list.

[Trey45]

All of them. You can't go wrong with any of those Ruger's you listed.

[canyon-ghost]

Because I own 2 Blackhawks, I'd say the Blackhawk. Trey said it best, Any Ruger, pick one. You may like the GP100 best, double action helps if you're shooting a lot.

[thegreatdane]

One vote for the GP100

[Hawken]

Well, if you can afford the tariff, a S&W 27 will take the pounding, even years after your grandchildren have been shooting it like you do.

[badbob454]

GP100 is my pick ...fast load, unload, and accurate, dependable.... natural shooter, for me anyhoo/...

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i have a blackhawk 44mag like it but the GP100 will be next

[2shotz]

I've had both the GP 100 and the Black Hawk .357.....Both are great guns but I would pic the Black Hawk over the GP 100 only becuase my Black Hawk was more accurate and consistant shot after shot. I reload my ammo and the action on the Black Hawk is a little more robust strength wize for those Heavy 180 grain Bullets I push with H110 powder.:holysheep

[PacMan]

I own 2-GP100 and one BH and prefer the GP100.
The out of box trigger is much better than the BH and i really like the grips.The front sight blade can easily be changed as opposed to the BH. They are a little less bulky which makes carry better IMHO.
You are more likely to get proper size throats with the GP100 than the BH in my experience.

As yopu have found out those scandium revolvers were never meant for that much firing but designed as a PP carry weapon which they work great for that.

[Rio Grande]

1) Ruger Security-Six. 4". Or 2 1/2".

2) Ruger SP-101 3 1/16"

3) Ruger Blackhawk 4 5/8" old model (3-screw). 3-screw flat-top if I could afford it. Both original, without the 'safety' transfer bar factory modification.

Depends on what you like...DA or SA. All 3 great firearms. If you think you are going to fall into any water while fishing or panning, or be in the rain a lot...I'd choose the DA's as they can be easily field-stripped for cleaning.
I consider the GP-100 too heavy for hiking. especially in the hills. I learned about that carrying a S&W M58 in Colorado!

I also agree with dwight about the 'proper size throats'.

[sabot_round]

I own one of each and my choice would be the GP100. Although, as stated above, all choices will be good. It all depends on your preference. Just my $0.02

[btroj]

I really like my 4 inch GP100. Shoots very well, built like a tank, and easy to handle. This is my go to gun for teaching any new shooter.

[Love Life]

Thank you everybody. I believe I will go with the GP100. Now I have to look around for a good used one. I really like the tapered barrel of the security six though. It is terrible the decisions I have to make.

[RayinNH]

Get one of each, save yourself the agonizing,:bigsmyl2:...Ray

[sagamore-one]

I was in the same delimma several years ago when I was shooting competitively with a wheel gun. I got sick and tired of having my K frame Smiths wearing out or breaking forcing cones. I switched to N frame Smiths and fired several hundreds of thousands of rounds of full throttle 357 without a problem of any sort.
As I got older my carry gun needed to become more discreet so back I went to K frame Smiths. After two broken forcing cones I bought a Ruger Speed Six with a 2 3/4 inch barrel. It is built like a Mack truck and twice as ugly.... but it works and seems totally un- affected by magnum loads. I only have a couple thousand rounds through it as of now, but it really is robustly built. No durability issues .
As for the strength of the Scandium / Titanium Smiths... I have one in 44 Mag.
The jury is still out on it.

[williamwaco]

I was in the same delimma several years ago when I was shooting competitively with a wheel gun. I got sick and tired of having my K frame Smiths wearing out or breaking forcing cones. I switched to N frame Smiths and fired several hundreds of thousands of rounds of full throttle 357 without a problem of any sort.
.


+ 1 Vote for the OLDER N frame Smiths.

I would buy a '60 or '70's model N frame smith over any modern revolver.

I like the Rugers for strength and durability but The Smiths are much nicer to handle.

[TCLouis]

Significantly higher priced (was when I was looking anyway) but you may want to look at S&W 686.

[Wheeler]

After around 20k rounds of .38 +P and .357 Mag I'm finally starting to have a minor issue with my 686CS1. I don't think any of the scandium or titanium frame guns were made to be shot a lot.

Wheeler

[357Mag]

Love Life-

Howdy !
I beg you... reconsider S W revolvers..... this time..... " pre-owned."

You sound like a great candidate for a top-quality " used " .38- 44
( M-20, I believe ).

These did not have the Scandium frames, has a conventional "pinned " barrel, and cylinders set-up w/ recesses for the case rims.

I must admit, I have a hard time imagining that a proven M-27 or M-28 couldn't
" cut-the-mustard " ??!

If you have been shooting an "N" frame, I suspect you might have sizeable hands.
If you're like me in that regard, then there's not a whole bunch of other revolvers that have frame size, span-to-trigger from web of the hand; and so forth... that an "N" frame comes with. That also are chambered in a sensible self-defense caibre... that also have good barrel length choices ( esp for use as a "carry" gun )

Sorry... couldn't help myself. 36+ years toting an "N" frame .35Mag, in various lengths. I'm not qualified to recommend anything else !!!

With regards,
35Mag

[btroj]

You have proven what I always felt- the ultra lightweight revolvers are made to be carried alot and shot little.
If you want a 357 then get a real one, not some toy made to be carried, unless of course you want a carry piece.

[Kraschenbirn]

As much as I love my 4 5/8" 3-screw BH, of the pieces you've named and uses you've described, I'd go with the GP-100. They're rugged, reliable, and - if my 4" is a typical example - acceptably accurate for everyday wear.

On the other hand, if I had to pick just one of my .38/.357 revolvers to keep, I'd grab onto my low-s/n S&W 586 and run like H**L. As a couple of others have suggested, you might want to look around for a "pre-owned" all-steel S&W L or N-frame. Just my nickle's worth.

Bill

[sagamore-one]

One particular gunshop I frequent got 3 of the first 329PD 44 mag revolvers and did an endurance test on one of them. Shooters were recruited to help shoot. I was recruited to supply boolits. At round count 5,700 something the top strap finally cut all the way through and left the revolver un - serviceable. It got sent back to Smith & Wesson and when it returned it had a piece of stainless steel sandwiched between the barrel and topstrap to reduce flame cutting . I began my search for an affordable 329 at that time. Found one with two rounds fired for $600.
But I still have 4 model 27's and 2 model 29's just in case the 329 breaks.

[Love Life]

I am quite sure one of the old S&W would work, but I do not want a S&W. I am still not considering one even after reading all the advice given on them so far, but thank you.

The 327 PC TRR8 was a scandium framed N fram chambered in 357 Mag/38 spl. It shot fine, but I was unmhappy with that revolver for many reasons. They are listed below:

1. Tooling marks in the barrel right where the rifling started. Looked like little rockets.
2. Immediately out of the box I had light firing pin strikes. I had to tighten the tension screw in the gripframe.
3. Showed high pressure signs with 357 magnum even at start loads. Yes the chambers were cleaned after switching from 38 special to 357 magnum.
4. The finish wore off real easy.
5. There was cylinder play right out of the box.
6. After shooting a couple thousand rounds of a load that the gun was more than capable to handle it was out of time, spitting lead, etc.
7. There was cylinder binding right out of the box and it continued throughout the time I had the revolver.

Call me crazy, but I believe a $900 and change revolver should be damn near perfect when it comes to you. So I will be looking on the used market for either a GP100 or security Six. Once again I want to thank everybody for their advice.

[Wheeler]

You are correct. S&W has fallen off their perch as a premier revolver company in my opinion. The basic package is still good, but the quality that went into the guns before they left the factory is lacking.

That's much the same reason that I don't have any desire for a high-end 1911. Why spend $800+ for a gun that will need to be tweaked to run reliably.

Good luck in your search.

[Ed K]

I am not going to defend scandium-framed revolvers but why would one reason that since company "A"s featherweight did not work out for me I am going to purchase company "B"s heavyweight?

I guess if you claimed your model 27/28 was a stinker and I'm going to go Ruger I could relate better (even if it was hard to take!).

[FN in MT]

The 327's are NOT made for THOUSANDS of rounds. They are light weight guns, specifically designed as a CARRY gun. Carried often...shot very little.

One of the PC shop 627's would be ideal. THE strongest large frame Smiths ever made.

Enjoy the Ruger I guess??

[redneckdan]

git yerself a redhawk in 357. If you can mange to break that then you have some serious issues.

[Love Life]

I am not going to defend scandium-framed revolvers but why would one reason that since company "A"s featherweight did not work out for me I am going to purchase company "B"s heavyweight?

I guess if you claimed your model 27/28 was a stinker and I'm going to go Ruger I could relate better (even if it was hard to take!).

Ok here we go. I do not want a smith. Period and end of story on those. I am well aware that I bought a a SCANDIUM framed lightweight (relatively speaking) revolver, but I don't remember reading anywhere in the owners manual that said "Do not shoot more than so many rounds." It was a .357 magnum that got beat up on 38 specials.

I can see that this is going to turn into a "OH MY GOD!! There is absolutely no way S&W could build an overpriced piece of ****!!" thread and I respectfully ask the Moderator to lock this one out.

I want to thank everybody who posted relevant information to the question asked.

[Lonegun1894]

I have a Security Six, a GP-100, and 2 Blackhawks, so my vote would be, um, uh, hell, any one of em is a great gun. Handle them all and buy whichever feels best in your hand. My next revolver purchase will be another Ruger, but this time a SP-101, but that doesnt have the adjustable sights you want.

[warf73]

git yerself a redhawk in 357. If you can mange to break that then you have some serious issues.

Your just evil, I looked threw 4 pages of redhawks on GB and didn't find a single 357mag lol.

[warf73]

Get the GP 100 in what ever barrel length trips your trigger and shoot the snot out it.

[Beau Cassidy]

Don't tell me the 327 shot loose with .38 loads. That is not what I want to hear! I bought the 327 and 329 last fall. I haven't shot either much but do have about 700 .38 rounds loaded up with stout loads of Unique behind the 358429. Working up loads for the 329 is on the list of things to do. I never plan on shooting it much, though, and will probably keep loads about 900 to 100 FPS.

[Ed K]

Ok here we go. I do not want a smith. Period and end of story on those.

Please point out where I suggested you buy a S&W.

[Love Life]

Don't tell me the 327 shot loose with .38 loads. That is not what I want to hear! I bought the 327 and 329 last fall. I haven't shot either much but do have about 700 .38 rounds loaded up with stout loads of Unique behind the 358429. Working up loads for the 329 is on the list of things to do. I never plan on shooting it much, though, and will probably keep loads about 900 to 100 FPS.

I am sorry to say that .38 loads killed my 327. I may have gotten a lemon though.

[Love Life]

Please point out where I suggested you buy a S&W.

You did not suggest I buy a S&W. However, I specifically stated that S&W revolvers were not in the running for my next revolver. Actually I stated it twice and had the word "NOT" in capital letters to emphasize that I did not want a S&W, was not even considering a S&W, and had my mind made up on a Ruger. I even went on to ask which ruger I should get.

Then I get people suggesting S&W revolvers which in no way shape or form helped with my question in my original post. Next you asked what my thinking was behind my the switch from Company A's lightweight scandium framed revolver to Company B's heavy weight.

Here is my thinking. Company A is a well respected and well known company who makes very nice firearms. I drank the kool-aid of company A and bought one of their revolvers from the performance center which is supposed to be top of the line and the price reflects that. Comany A's top of the line revolver wore out on loads that it was supposed to be more than capable of handling, and had many other issues as well. As stated before a revolver that costs that much should be damn near perfect out of the box.

Moving on to the switch to company B's heavyweight. I have owned (and still kind of do) a Ruger GP100 and was very happy with it, but I long term loaned it to my brother once I bought the Smith. Now I need a new 357/38 revolver and I want one that will perform with all loads through out the spectrum of the cartridges it is chambered for, be very strong, cheap, and go bang. I have the opportunity to start fresh though and wanted the forum member's opinions of which Ruger they thought fit the bill for the criteria I posted.

All the above is just a longwinded way of saying Which RUGER revolver would you suggest.

have a good day everybody

[Ed K]

I removed the company names to demonstrate the original comparison was apples and oranges. Let's stick with one company's revolver: Ruger. You can't buy a LCR, shoot thousands of rounds through it, complain of frame stretch or timing and then pick up a Redhawk 357 and claim the LCR is garbage while the Redhawk is good.

Which Ruger would I suggest? Probably the Security six. Why?

For your application you were initially drawn to a lightweight DA revolver.

That rules out the Blackhawk because it is SA.
That would tilt the odds in favor of the Security Six due to its' weight advantage. The GP100 is very good though and only you can decide if whatever personal preference you may have for it outweighs the fact it is heavier.

[Love Life]

Thank you Ed K for the info.

There is a huge difference in a LCR and N framed 327 PC so it is comparing apples to apples and I can say that my 327 was garbage. The twin to the 327 PC is touted as a heavy duty law enforcement firearm, and I expect they shoot theirs just as much or more than I shot mine. I could understand the gun wearing out if I shot non stop full bore 357 magnum loads all day long, but that was not the case with this one. S&W let a piece of **** out of the factory, and I was the unfortunate one who bought it.

The more I look at them the more I believe you are right. The security six is lighter and I like the fact that it doesn't have the full underlug, but then again the full underlug just looks cool. I will head to the gun store soon and see what they have on hand.

[Frosty Boolit]

"S&W let a piece of **** out of the factory, and I was the unfortunate one who bought it."

I got one too. But I don't really know if I like the rugers I got afterword any better. Since then I have bought two S&W K frames with pinned barrels. I'd like to have a security or service six but where are they?

[9.3X62AL]

Any of the Ruger revolvers mentioned in your initial post will serve you well. I have a Bisley Blackhawk in 357 x 7.5", and it is a DELIGHT to fire--and I have run some intrepid loads through it. Of course, that's what I bought it for--Lyman #358156s at 1500 FPS+.

The GP-100 or SecSix might be better for sustained firing strings, though. The D/A platforms do refill a lot faster and more easily. I doubt that either of those D/As gives up much strength to the Blackhawk--if any.

[jhrosier]

I have all three of the revolvers that you mentioned and have shot them extensively.
I like the Security-Six best of those mentioned. My 2-3/4" SS has tens of thousands of rounds through it without a single problem. The 2-3/4" can be a bit snappy with heavy loads. I would pick a 4" for all around use.
However, there are no more SS replacement parts available from Ruger.
If you go with the Security-Six, buy two if them and you should be good for a couple of lifetimes of shooting.

BTW, my favorite .357 revolver is a 6" S&W 686+ from the Performance Center.

Jack

[kelbro]

Have you considered a Smith? ;)

Just kidding but the later models just don't measure up to the standards of the old ones.

Sounds like you are set on a new pistol. I think you would be hard pressed to damage a GP100.

[Love Life]

I want to thank everybody for their recommendations and info (even the S&W info). I am set on a security six because I like the slimmer barrel. Now if only I can find one for a decent price. The people on gunbroker are aware they are selling used pistols right?

[300winmag]

Significantly higher priced (was when I was looking anyway) but you may want to look at S&W 686.
Nice piece, I have no complaints with my 686 6" :Fire:

[Wheeler]

I want to thank everybody for their recommendations and info (even the S&W info). I am set on a security six because I like the slimmer barrel. Now if only I can find one for a decent price. The people on gunbroker are aware they are selling used pistols right?

They're out there. Maybe browse some local gun boards? I've seen a few for sale in my area locally that were reasonable. It's sort of like fishing, just gotta be patient and wait on the lunker. :)

[pmer]

Love Life, check this one out. 6'' GP100 1/2 lug barrel $350 buy it now.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=252898753

I had one of these for my first hand gun, wish I still had it. Better hurry before I snatch it up...

[Love Life]

Oh the decisions I have to make. I had my heart set on a security six, but the evil people at the gunshop have me tempted. The have a prelock S&W 686 with a 6 inch barrel. I looked at the gun and it locks up tight as a vault. The price is right and I am tempted. Should I give S&W another chance? I mean this gun is all that and a bag of chips and you get a prize with it.

[EDK]

The Security Six is equivalent to a K frame. The GP100 is equivalent to an L frame 686. You have to compare apples to apples here. I have had both makes and both models, but "reverted to my first love" the N-frame Smith & Wesson when I'm not shooting an Original Size VAQUERO...another story there. (Mine are 627s from the 1980/90s and the "gun of the week" from S&W. Big heavy mothers.)

Rugers are pretty basic guns. Not a lot of cosmetics and could have a better trigger pull, BUT they're a h*** of a lot lower priced. I consider them a "best buy" for the average person wanting a reliable hand gun. The S&W USUALLY has better cosmetics and trigger pull...haven't fondled a new one in quite awhile...BUT you pay for that as well as the name.

Single actions are great for hunting, cowboy action shooting, etc. Although they outnumber the double actions in MY safe by a considerable number and get a lot more range time; in moments of stress, the double action (or a semi auto) is going to be in my hand.

:Fire::cbpour::redneck:

[uscra112]

Yes, you should. A pre-lock 68x is NOTHING like the toy gun you bought before.

This'll raise some dust on the thread, but IMHO a stock Ruger feels like a bucket of bolts got left inside, compared to an older Smith. I've tried several, and the only one I liked was a Blackhawk that was the personal property of a professional Western smith. He was proud of it, and it felt as nice as my older Smiths, but if I had to pay him to do all that work to another one I'd have to sell the farm.

Have to agree that I'd never buy a new Smith today - the product cheapening department has clearly gotten the upper hand, judging by all the crying on the Intarweb. Not surprising - the Obama boom is demanding higher production, the manufacturing engineers are being told to cut down on the handwork, and the bean counters know that the market is filled with new buyers who don't know good from bad. (full disclosure - I'm retired from the manufacturing world - been there, seen that, burned the T-shirt in disgust.)

[Love Life]

Thank you. I will put it on layaway monday. It felt right, looked right, and like I said locked up like a vault. I have not held a revolver that locked up that tight since I held my first freedom arms. Man I really love my freedom arms. Thank you everybody and I really hate what smith and wesson has done to their QC.

[uscra112]

Yer welcome.

Read through the "revolver checkout" document here:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B6Fh3F6hufhDMWZiNjBkMWItZDhkNS00MTlhLWE4YzM tOTdmN2YwNmY4NzM2&hl=en_US

Do not believe the idea about looking for cylinder timing by peering down the barrel with a light shining through the firing pin hole, however. I've never been able to see anything useful that way.

The weight of the 686 will, by the way, soak up a lot of recoil. You will be pleasantly surprised after your experience with that lightweight. I'm rather arthritic, but I can take 50 or more full-house rounds through my L-frame in a session, especially since it has a nice Hogue neoprene grip. My K-frame I can only shoot with reduced cast-boolit, loads since it's a good deal lighter, and your "scandium special" was much lighter yet.

BTW a 3x to 5x jewelers' eye loupe (magnifier) is an essential aid to inspecting any gun. Easy to buy from machinist supply houses. Especially good for looking at throats, barrel crowns, and the forcing cone. And I carry a tiny flashlight with just one white LED on my keychain. The combination is almost as good as a borescope when checking out revolvers.

[robertbank]

I love my GP-100 in 4.2". Great pistol with a very nice trigger OTB. I installed the HI-Viz sights and have been very pleased. I had to ream out my cylinders to .358 as they were far to tight (.356 bullet would not pass through several of the holes. Now the gun shoots as accurate as I can hold. I use in in SSR Division shooting IDPA.

Take Care

Bob

[Cowboy T]

A good S&W 686 (good = "pre-lock garbage") is a joy to fire, and I predict you will like it a lot.

However, if that doesn't come through for some reason, I can vouch for the Security-Six. Those are TERRIFIC guns. Bull-strong, well-balanced, basically a GP-100 without the extra weight up front

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

It sounds like you need to measure the cylinders on all and make your choice. A 6-shot cylinder N-frame S&W is the stoutest.

Rich

[Bret4207]

I didn't read past the first post, so I don't know what other recommendations have been made. I'd go with the Security-Six for a Ruger, but you can often find a M-19 Smith for about the same money. That is a gun every true gunbuff needs too own.

[txbirdman]

At one time or another I've owned all the considered revolvers in this thread. I've ended up with 2 old S&W's. I have a 19-3 which I use mostly as a +P .38 spcl. and a 27-2 for the full powered .357's. In my opinion the trigger on a S&W can't be beat which aids in accuracy. I also had a 6" Python and the 27-2 proved much more accurate for me.

[afish4570]

686's are tough and accurate. At a Friends of the NRA Dinner years ago, an S&W rep daid the L frame 686 would be a hard gun to wear out and accurate too. Shot my best revolver score with one that had been heavily used by one of the agencies my friend worked for. Wish I had bought one when they were going quite reasonable. Instead I have several K frames that are shot alot with standard 38 loads.Ruger GP100's are tough too but check out the accuracy reputation.:smile::smile:afish4570