Tips for a beginner

[Chrome1981]

Hello everyone!!

I am a new member of this wonderful forum, unfortunately in Italy there is not much information about cast boolits :)

I already cast my bullet for my Sti spartan with Lee mould 452-228-1R 6cavity.
and i have an RCBS Lube-a-matic 2.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/9217/imagesdsi.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/36/imagesdsi.jpg/)

I recently bought a Marlin 1894C .357 Magnum and i want shoot it at 100 meters.

So I would like some advice on what mould to buy for use PatMarlins gascheck maker (I think I would be the first to have it in Rome).

:castmine:

Thank you very much and sorry for my english.

Best Regards!

[44man]

Your English is great and welcome. Someone will be able to answer for you.

[Chrome1981]

I would buy the Lyman 358156 What do you think??

I read that my Marlin was made with a 1 in 16" twist, a bullet of 155gr is it right weight for my twist?

Thank You!

[Bret4207]

Welcome aboard!

The Lyman 358156 is a wonderful design for the 357. I can't imagine you'd be sorry getting one. It was one of the first moulds I acquired and I've made and shot a zillion in 357, 38 Special, 35 Whelen, 35 Remington. Great boolit.

From your picture, I'd say you're off to a good start!

[runfiverun]

i don't understand the need for a gas check.
you should have no problems with anything from 125 to 180 gr and a plain base from 900 fps up to 1700 fps, still with the plain base.
i worry more about o.a.l., lube capacity, and nose shape for a levergun rather than a check.

i know of someone in italy with a check maker already [one of codarnal's] so you'd be second.

[PacMan]

Your twist will be fine up to and including 200 grain bullets.
Best of luck

[geargnasher]

Welcome aboard, Chrome1981! You have found the best and most helpful site on the internet for boolit casting in general, at least in my opinion. There are others sites, but none as open and friendly as this one.

I agree no real need for a gas check with the .357 Magnum or .38 Special, but that doesn't mean you can't get a checkmaker and mould for it if you want to anyway, we're just pointing out that you don't have to and you can save your money for a rifle-caliber checkmaker from PatMarlin if you have other rifles in calibers that really need them..

Check out our "molds, maintenance, and design" sub-forum, there is a "sticky" thread there that lists makers of productiona and custom moulds. Some of the best boolit moulds in the world are made by Miha Prevec in Slovenia, and you might save some shipping costs by ordering from him, since he's at least on your continent!

Gear

[MtGun44]

Hello! I used to live in Napoli many years ago. Your English is excellent. Unfortunately
my Italian was only moderately good then and I am VERY rusty!

No real need for a GC on .357 boolits, but you need to select a design that you are sure
will feed through that particular gun. I don't have one, so can't advise you but many
here in the Leverguns section will help. Of the molds that I know are really great designs,
I'd suggest you ask them about the Lee 358-158-RF, an non-GC design that may feed
through the Marlin. If it does, it should be excellent, assuming you get the fit right.

Have you slugged the barrel on the Marlin? You will want to ask the levergun folks what
is best, but in my experience you will want .001 or .002 larger than the groove diameter of
the barrel, at least. If you have microgroove rifling (10-12 grooves, very shallow) you will
need to be sure to use large enough diameter, and may have more of a need for a GC,
than with the "Ballard rifling" that some Marlins use. This is Marlin's term for the normal
rifling that everyone else uses. Microgroove is fine, but does require a good large diameter
boolit and MAY require a harder alloy and/or GC due to shallow lands. Ballard rifling will
be fine without GCs in most cases.

Ciao!

Bill

[Chrome1981]

I would like first to thank you for your attention and advice. Unfortunately this hobby in this country is not protected as in America, here unfortunately we don't have an association as strong as the NRA.


Hello! I used to live in Napoli many years ago. Your English is excellent. Unfortunately
my Italian was only moderately good then and I am VERY rusty!

No real need for a GC on .357 boolits, but you need to select a design that you are sure
will feed through that particular gun. I don't have one, so can't advise you but many
here in the Leverguns section will help. Of the molds that I know are really great designs,
I'd suggest you ask them about the Lee 358-158-RF, an non-GC design that may feed
through the Marlin. If it does, it should be excellent, assuming you get the fit right.

Have you slugged the barrel on the Marlin? You will want to ask the levergun folks what
is best, but in my experience you will want .001 or .002 larger than the groove diameter of
the barrel, at least. If you have microgroove rifling (10-12 grooves, very shallow) you will
need to be sure to use large enough diameter, and may have more of a need for a GC,
than with the "Ballard rifling" that some Marlins use. This is Marlin's term for the normal
rifling that everyone else uses. Microgroove is fine, but does require a good large diameter
boolit and MAY require a harder alloy and/or GC due to shallow lands. Ballard rifling will
be fine without GCs in most cases.

Ciao!

Bill

Here in Italy the LEE is cheap (2 cavity 23 Euros), so to begin to experiment can i buy Lee 358-158-RF.

I hope to arrive at 1500 fps without too much lead in the barrel :-?

I haven't slugged the barrel, but I am sure you have 6 groove.


i don't understand the need for a gas check.
you should have no problems with anything from 125 to 180 gr and a plain base from 900 fps up to 1700 fps, still with the plain base.
i worry more about o.a.l., lube capacity, and nose shape for a levergun rather than a check.

i know of someone in italy with a check maker already [one of codarnal's] so you'd be second.

Hi Runfiverun, I don't know if I really need of a GASCHECK, But consider that i use lead of poor quality (almost pure). I have not found the right amount of lead with antimony and tin.

On my sti spartan I've fired my bullets up to a maximum speed of 780 fps (I have an Prochrono) and with RCBS Lube i haven't had any problem.

I used "Noblel Sport GM3" powder. Here in Italy there are different powders that in America. This powder burning rate is similar to the dust as Hodgdon HP38.

I would certainly buy a more progressive powder like H110 or Winchester 296.

My problem is that I do not know which mould to start buying.


Welcome aboard, Chrome1981! You have found the best and most helpful site on the internet for boolit casting in general, at least in my opinion. There are others sites, but none as open and friendly as this one.

I agree no real need for a gas check with the .357 Magnum or .38 Special, but that doesn't mean you can't get a checkmaker and mould for it if you want to anyway, we're just pointing out that you don't have to and you can save your money for a rifle-caliber checkmaker from PatMarlin if you have other rifles in calibers that really need them..

Check out our "molds, maintenance, and design" sub-forum, there is a "sticky" thread there that lists makers of productiona and custom moulds. Some of the best boolit moulds in the world are made by Miha Prevec in Slovenia, and you might save some shipping costs by ordering from him, since he's at least on your continent!

Gear

No i have only:
HK MR-223 (is european version of MR-556) .223 Rem.
HK USP .40 S&W
Sti Spartan .45 ACP
Hatsan Escort pump action 12 gauge (it is very cheap)
Marlin 1894C .357 Mag

Thank U for the tip of Miha Prevec in Slovenia.

[runfiverun]

you can use just tin and lead.
to get your alloy up to the hardness of american wheel weights 20-1 is pretty close.
nobel-80 is approx titegroup speed
nobel-82 is just a hair slower than unique.
nobel-89 is approximately 2400's burn rate.
rev-1 is like 4227 or xmp-5744
and rev-3 is close to aa-1680 and h-110.
this should help you with the loads you see here translate into what you can get there.
i would imagine you use rif-2 in your 223

[Blammer]

Winchester powder 296 and the Lee 358-158 RF and your lever gun would be a good match!

I shoot the Lee 358 158 RF out of my Win 94 in 357magnum, levergun with W296 and get 2" groups at 100yds, and fun to shoot too!

If you can get some 'magnum' shot, you can melt some of that with your lead to get the antimony up so you can water quench if you want. Old Pewter may work for you for your tin content.

[MtGun44]

How do they balance wheels in Italy? No more lead alloy wheel weights? Newer ones
here are starting to be zinc, so no good for boolits. If you can find wheel balancing
weights, the kind with a steel clip for steel wheels, the alloy is about perfect for
boolits.

358-158-RF will probably work at 1500 fps with good alloy, good lube, good fit and
proper powder speed. I use Hodgdon H110 or Winchester 296 powder to get maximum
velocity in .357 Mag in a pistol. If you can find either one (they are the same) or maybe
a Nobel or Vitavuhouri powder that is used for maximum .357 magnum or .44 magnum loads
you should be able to push this design (38-158-RF) to 1500. I use 16.3 grains of H110
with this boolit, and that should do over 1500 in a rifle length barrel.

Bill

[Chrome1981]

you can use just tin and lead.
to get your alloy up to the hardness of american wheel weights 20-1 is pretty close.
nobel-80 is approx titegroup speed
nobel-82 is just a hair slower than unique.
nobel-89 is approximately 2400's burn rate.
rev-1 is like 4227 or xmp-5744
and rev-3 is close to aa-1680 and h-110.
this should help you with the loads you see here translate into what you can get there.
i would imagine you use rif-2 in your 223

Unfortunately I do not have such a wide choice of types of powders:

Nobel-80 never seen here, u can find Only Nobel Gm3
But i found the Vihtavuori N-110 (very similar to W 296) at a good price! 68 Euros, 1Kg.

In my .223 i use Beschieri & Pellagri 19 (it is a powder made in Italy more cheap)
data is: SP/HP/FMJ 55gr min 26,0 max 27,5 (similar to N-135)



Winchester powder 296 and the Lee 358-158 RF and your lever gun would be a good match!

I shoot the Lee 358 158 RF out of my Win 94 in 357magnum, levergun with W296 and get 2" groups at 100yds, and fun to shoot too!

If you can get some 'magnum' shot, you can melt some of that with your lead to get the antimony up so you can water quench if you want. Old Pewter may work for you for your tin content.


Great! good result!

As I said, I have found Vihtavuori N-110.

I always do quench of bullet, is difficult for me find lead with antimony, i thought a good solution was to use the GAS CHECK.
But before buying a mould for gascheck, i wanted to do a test with a plane base mould like Lee Lee 358 158 RF.

i have a lube a matic 2 and i use RCBS lube, i hope they are sufficient.


How do they balance wheels in Italy? No more lead alloy wheel weights? Newer ones
here are starting to be zinc, so no good for boolits. If you can find wheel balancing
weights, the kind with a steel clip for steel wheels, the alloy is about perfect for
boolits.

358-158-RF will probably work at 1500 fps with good alloy, good lube, good fit and
proper powder speed. I use Hodgdon H110 or Winchester 296 powder to get maximum
velocity in .357 Mag in a pistol. If you can find either one (they are the same) or maybe
a Nobel or Vitavuhouri powder that is used for maximum .357 magnum or .44 magnum loads
you should be able to push this design (38-158-RF) to 1500. I use 16.3 grains of H110
with this boolit, and that should do over 1500 in a rifle length barrel.

Bill

Yes balancing weights are good but, here are very difficult to find, such as lynotype.

Unfortunately i have to make do with what I have, the only thing thath i can do is to put a gascheck :(

what do you think otherwise if I used a powder as fast as N-350 would create less lead residue in my barrel?

Thank you!!

[Hardcast416taylor]

Hello and welcome. I agree with the choice of the LEE mold for both carbine shooting and for use in a handgun. For a source of tin, have you tried using lead-less plumbers solder? I am a retired plumber of over 35 years service, so I have a "few" partially used rolls of this solder to use. I unwind about 8" to 10" and add this to a 10 lb. LEE pot. If more is needed, I add more. Any other trace metals float to the top and can be skimmed. I would keep looking at auto garages or auto dealerships for clip on lead wheel weights.Robert

[Doble Troble]

Bravo to casting in Italy!

I'm glad your Spartan feeds the 1R bullets - I've had trouble with that one in a couple of 45s.

You will get much encouragement from this group!

RCBS lube is probably OK, but may be able to be improved upon. If you can't make hard bullets maybe you can overcome that with really-really good lube that you can make yourself? There are many recipes available here, and I suspect that those who know more about lube than I can recommend a good one to try with softer than optimal bullets.

[Chrome1981]

Bravo to casting in Italy!

I'm glad your Spartan feeds the 1R bullets - I've had trouble with that one in a couple of 45s.

You will get much encouragement from this group!

RCBS lube is probably OK, but may be able to be improved upon. If you can't make hard bullets maybe you can overcome that with really-really good lube that you can make yourself? There are many recipes available here, and I suspect that those who know more about lube than I can recommend a good one to try with softer than optimal bullets.

Thanks a lot!

I had no feeding problem with my Spartan, but I noticed that my spartan with Mec-Gar magazine feed better then Kimber magazine,Kimber gave me some problems of rust, and sometime feeding problem.

ok I'll try to learn more about lubricants.

I unfortunately i don't know nothing of bullet's lubrificant, so I bought the RCBS lube, because i consider RCBS a good brand only for this reason.

however, i had no problem of residues of lead in my sti spartan barrel (usually push my .45 boolits at 220 m/s).

[Doble Troble]

This may be a lube-making start...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=66426

I use White Label BAC - I don't know if they ship to Italy - they do have a place for 'country' on their order form that is encouraging. It's really good lube (and not expensive): http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/. The RCBS may very well be fine, I haven't used it. I started with Lyman Moly lube, and BAC is much, much better for reducing leading.

I've had better luck with Mec-Gar mags than Kimber too - although I've only used Mec-Gar for double stack guns. I use Chip McCormick 8-rounders with base pads for my 1911 shooting USPSA matches. Action pistol matches are superfun if you get a chance.

[Chrome1981]

This may be a lube-making start...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=66426

I use White Label BAC - I don't know if they ship to Italy - they do have a place for 'country' on their order form that is encouraging. It's really good lube (and not expensive): http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/. The RCBS may very well be fine, I haven't used it. I started with Lyman Moly lube, and BAC is much, much better for reducing leading.

I've had better luck with Mec-Gar mags than Kimber too - although I've only used Mec-Gar for double stack guns. I use Chip McCormick 8-rounders with base pads for my 1911 shooting USPSA matches. Action pistol matches are superfun if you get a chance.

Thank you, great price compared to RCBS lube!

i have found White label on Ebay store, there is a promotion where they send you 2 types of every product ( http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220743324152&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3385wt_932 ) however I can also use Carnauba Red because i have lyman heater.

[WHITETAIL]

1981, It sounds like you are off to a good start.
And do a surch here on lubes,
their are many answers to the lube
question.
And you may find that many home products
can be blended to make your own lube.:redneck: