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View Full Version : Damaged 31141 mold?



Jason30-30
09-18-2011, 11:48 PM
I bought a lyman 31141 for my 30-30. I Am New to casting and have not yet ordered anything but the mold. When the mold arrived it looked better than i expected. Upon closer inspection the front cavity had a little burr caused by the allignment pins. I wanted to ask here if that might be a problem or not

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz14/JASONf22/4d35ae0e.jpg

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz14/JASONf22/4d35ae0e.jpg

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz14/JASONf22/4f61ba57.jpg

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz14/JASONf22/51f6d232.jpg

I hope someone could see the pictures and help me out the burr isnt deep into the cavity at all just not sureif it will be an issue once i start casting.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.

Blammer
09-19-2011, 12:06 AM
hard to say.

I'd say NO, it won't hurt anything. If it does it would be JUST enough to keep the boolit from dropping when you open the mould and that'd be about it.

I'd try it first before I'd do anything. It may work just fine.

Jason30-30
09-19-2011, 01:04 AM
Thank for replying i hope it wont interfiere with anything because i really like the profile of the mold

Bret4207
09-19-2011, 07:17 AM
Try it and see. If there are problems a little work with a jewelers file and a stone should fix it.

Ben
09-19-2011, 09:32 PM
Jason30-30

Hopefully it won't keep you from being able to use the mold.
That is caused by the careless act of " slamming " the mold shut.
So needless and so easily avoided by anyone with rudimentary basic casting knowledge.

That is also one of the many reasons that I NEVER loan out my molds to anyone.

BTW, does your camera have a " macro " setting ?

Ben

geargnasher
09-19-2011, 09:48 PM
I have a two-cavity Lyman I got used for a song with full-disclosure that it had a cavity damaged. It is much worse, and caused by shipping without the blocks taped together, they got shifted and the pin beat the edge of one of the cavities up badly. I GENTLY peened the burrs down flat so the mould would close, and use it as a single-cavity. If you're handy with delicate work, you might try to peen that metal back where it was. I'm thinking grind a slightly convex tip (about like a dinner plate) on the end of a concrete nail, polish it, grind a relief notch in it near the tip so it won't ding the other side of the cavity, wrap it with one layer of electrical tape from the tip up, and work the burr back into the side of the cavity.

Gear

runfiverun
09-20-2011, 12:35 AM
you might be able to pick away at it with an exacto blade.
i have been able to take edges out of cavities with one of them before.
if you slip its usually just a scratch and not a gouge.
many of the newer blocks are leaded steel and they are fairly soft.

trace out the vent lines away from the cavities [always work away from the cavities].

Jason30-30
09-20-2011, 01:29 AM
Ben thank for the tip ill be more careful next time i buy a used mold

I took the pictures with my iPhone so the quality is pretty low

Hey thanks for the reply i REALLY appreciate it

Jason30-30
09-20-2011, 01:31 AM
Thanks for the tip i was thinking of using an exacto knife to work around the burr it isnt deep at all and im thinking it might work

Thanks for replying

Jason30-30
09-20-2011, 01:34 AM
Thanks for the tip gear im glad it aint worst thanks for the idea im definatelly going to try to do something about it so i can use it as a 2 cavity

Thanks for replying