Bull plate lube on the HP pin ?

[Johnch]

I was helping a freinds son get set up to cast this afternoon

After we got him cast good Boolits for his 38

He wanted to try a Lyman HP mold he had

Long story short
He was having problems getting the boolit to come off the HP pin

I had showed him how to aply Bull Plate lube to the molds and had explained it would cause fill out problem if gotten inside the mold

But he ask if aplyed to only the HP pin , would it help with the release ?

As I had no clue , I admitted to not knowing
But I figured someone had tryed it and would ask


So
If applyed to only to the HP pin
Will Bull Plate help with the pin sticking in a HP ?
Or just cause fill out problems ?


John

[cephas53]

Have been using 2 HBWC molds I got from MP molds. Put a very light touch of bullplate on the pins prior to preheating on a hot plate. Get decent casts after a couple throws. Have had minimal hang ups due to the pins. Careful not to get any into the cavity, just on the pins. Good luck.

[rayzer]

I tried Bullplate on the pins of one of my hollow point molds. I did not put a whole lot of it on, for fear of it contaminating the mold. It did not work out too well. The boolits were still sticking on the pins. What did work for me was, smoking the pins with a butane lighter. No problems after that.

[white eagle]

I have used it on troublesome pins
helped out

[Dale53]

I use either NEI or Rapine mould release on my hollow point pins. Totally solves the problem.

FWIW
Dale53

[Hurricane]

I have used Bullplate on the HP pin an it worked very well. However, what works best is to heat the pin on a hot plate prior to starting casting. I recently got a cheap one burner hot plate and it is great. When the pin is not hot enough the boolit will stick to the pin. When preheated the good bullets come with the first or second try. I heat the mold with the spruce plate down on the hot plate, then turn it over to finish heating the mold. At the same time I heat the pin by placing the pin so that the tip of the pin touches one of the heat coils on the hot plate. Works like a charm, just don't let anything wooden touch the hot plate coil.

[MikeS]

You said he was using a Lyman HP mould, so that means it's the old style where the HP pin is separate from the mould, and has it's own wood handle, right? I was under the impression that with those moulds, you removed the pin before opening the mould blocks. I thought getting the boolits to release from the pins was more a problem with Cramer style moulds where the pins are attached to the mould blocks? Am I wrong? (I wouldn't be surprised if I'm wrong) :)

[Johnch]

You said he was using a Lyman HP mould, so that means it's the old style where the HP pin is separate from the mould, and has it's own wood handle, right? I was under the impression that with those moulds, you removed the pin before opening the mould blocks. I thought getting the boolits to release from the pins was more a problem with Cramer style moulds where the pins are attached to the mould blocks? Am I wrong? (I wouldn't be surprised if I'm wrong) :)

The pin wanted to stick in the cavity , had a hard time getting it out

Last night a took a hard look at the pin
It had a sort of wasp waist look to it ,if you looked close
So I polished the snot out of the wide area close to the tip

And that solved most of the problem ( might need to pilish more )
But adding a touch of Bull Plate to the pin allowed it to come right out

John