M1 Garand Identification

[bowenrd]

10 years or more ago I bought a new production Springfield Armory (Geneseo, IL) M1 Garand. It is sitting in the back of the safe and never fired since leaving the factory. How can I tell if it is a forged or cast receiver?

Thanks in advance.

[Char-Gar]

I had on of those Springfield Armory Garands some years back and it was a great rifle. I expect your is also a great rifle. In a fit of stupidity I traded it off.

[Buckshot]

10 years or more ago I bought a new production Springfield Armory (Geneseo, IL) M1 Garand. It is sitting in the back of the safe and never fired since leaving the factory. How can I tell if it is a forged or cast receiver?

Thanks in advance.

Shouldn't matter if it was forged or cast if either was done by a reputable company. Chances are if cast it may have been done by Ruger (but their casting op has a different name), and they're first coach in that department. They do way more casting work for outside companies (and not just gun parts by a long shot) then they do for Ruger.

.............Buckshot

[midnight]

Ruger's investment casting is done by Pine Tree Casting. Buckshot is right. They cast for everyone and have been doing it a very long time. Bill Ruger formed the company back in Conn. I know he did the No. 1 s that way in 1967 and probably the Blackhawks before that.

Bob

[BruceB]

I've never owned a new-production Garand from Springfield Armory Inc.; however, I have read a good deal about them.

My understanding is that the receivers were cast, and made at Lithgow in Australia. The rifles were reported to be deficient in quality, to the point that folks who "SEEMED" to be in-the-know about Garands in general recommended against buying them.

With original US-made service Garands being easy to find, and their quality being well-known, I would NOT buy a new-production rifle of uncertain worth. Stick with the originals....they are fine rifles.

[bowenrd]

I've never owned a new-production Garand from Springfield Armory Inc.; however, I have read a good deal about them.

My understanding is that the receivers were cast, and made at Lithgow in Australia. The rifles were reported to be deficient in quality, to the point that folks who "SEEMED" to be in-the-know about Garands in general recommended against buying them.

With original US-made service Garands being easy to find, and their quality being well-known, I would NOT buy a new-production rifle of uncertain worth. Stick with the originals....they are fine rifles.

I do have an oldie and a goodie that I shoot often. It has a barrel date of 6-43. Sweeet!

Thanks for all the input.

[avogunner]

I bought one of these to celebrate my first reenlistment in 1983. I've put quite a few rounds through it and generally I love it. However, it has had an ongoing problem with short recoil malfunctions. I should have instantly sent it back to SA but being young and dumb, I decided to suck it up and just tolerate it. As I want to start shooting in some local Garand matches, I'm thinking of sending to Fulton Armory for their tech inspection/service. Not interested so much for accuracy (service grade is sufficient) but reliability is a must. Anybody here have experience with these guys?

[Gtek]

Before you go through the hassle of shipping out. Try a couple things first. Find an original OPERATING ROD spring, check for correct free length of 19.5" to 20 1/4". Many I have found in the aftermarket world are on the just a bit to much side. Also diss rifle to barrel rec group, remove op spring and remove pin and all components from bottom. Just op rod and bolt, tilt weapon to approx 45 degrees and should drop out of battery to full open, tip down weapon should go to full battery. If not find bind area, a well fit and lubed weapon should do this no problem. I wish you had bought a (real) one, the Lithgow tale is correct, and many reported problems with them, nothing that cannot be fixed usually, just a PIA. I have been building, shooting, collecting for twenty +. If
you have any questions pm me. Gtek

[Got-R-Did]

GTEK is on the right track concerning reliability. Another quick check is to make certain the gas cylinder lock screw is very tight. I have been collecting and shooting Garands for just over 12 years and volunteer through the CMP to rebuild the rifles for KY VFW, AM. Legion, and Disabled Vet Posts. Absolutely love these treasures.
Got-R-Did.

[avogunner]

Thanks for the suggestions and I just checked out my op rod spring. It measures out to about 18 7/8". So instead of a true "short recoil" problem, would it be possible this short spring is providing insufficient tension to the follower to push the rounds up fast enough? Meaning the bolt cycles before the next round can be in place to be stripped and chambered? I've always thought it more of a gas issue (gas cylinder or piston end of op rod out of spec) and yes, the gas cylinder lock screw does have a tendency to come loose. I'll have to pick up a new spring and give that a try. Thanks again for the gouge......Semper Fi!!

[NickSS]

I had one of the New made springfields back in the 80s when I was match shooting a lot. I shot out the original barrel on it and had a gas gun expert rebarrel it in 308 with a Kreiger barrel and retune it (I had previously galassed and tuned it myself when I first bought it). When I got it back it shot right along with my M1A Super match rifle without any problems. I never had any problems with it and wore out three barrels on it as well as used it to make Master class HP shooter. I sold it in the early 90s when I switched to shooting BPCR and needed money to buy a couple of shiloh rifles.

[Gtek]

Short recoil means to me probably extracting but not picking up next round. Even a short spring can be to stiff. It may also be a pressure issue+ gas hole in barrel not aligned with port in gas cyl.
When all is right should be dumpming spent cases between 1 and 3 o'clock through clip. Good indication of weapon function. It is possible that the weak spring is not allowing next round to be stripped and return to battery. It can extract case and not rearward enough to strip new if to stiff.
Find and M1 guy and have op rod tip mic'd and cyl gauged to remove doubt. Would not be the first time I found new bad stuff! Be safe- Gtek

[JIMinPHX]

Please pardon a stupid question, but - Is that new gun a .30-06 or a .308? All of the regular old Garands that I have seen were .30-06. All of the newer guns I've seen that looked like them & came from Springfield were .308 cal.

[avogunner]

Jim, my rifle is chambered for .30-06. At the time SA Inc. offered these new production M1's in a variety of calibers; .308, .270, and even .243 as I recall.

Gtek, I neglected to mention in my last post that I did the "tilt" test also and it falls out of battery easily but at it's most rearward, it has the very slightest amount of binding to get started when tilting the muzzle down to fall back in. It's so slight, I can't see this interfering with the slam of the bolt when fired though. Yep, my empties do eject from 1 - 3 o'clock and I fully understand the port pressure requirments of the Garand so my reloads all use IMR-4895, Win 748, or equivolent burn rate powder. I'd like to get those gas parts gauged but finding a good M1 guy is my concern. I've already had a "bubba" look at it (years ago) and he did some ugly work.

Glad to hear you liked your rifle Nick. I do like this one too and I'm also very satisfied with the accuracy as it came. Benched and supported, I've had groups as small as 1.5" @ 100yds (LC Match ammo) so it shoots better than I can. I just got to lick this old feeding problem.

[Gtek]

That little bind at end is usually the lower band contacting op-rod at last of rear travel. If you have shot as many rounds as said, should be shiny spots on op-rod that will tell you where. Usually a little down bend in fwd section will rub handguard liner and just touch band at full rear. Easy fix if you were around here. I still would try spring change if you can, cheap and easy plus you will have a spare. Be safe- Gtek