Saeco 24--Lyman 61

[oneokie]

My Saeco 24 pot quit heating. Took it apart and one of the leads from the thermostat to the heating element had burnt in two. While attempting to remove the crimp-on connector from the element pigtail, the pigtail broke off of the element.

Using a die grinder with a 1/2 cylindrical stone, I started removing the outer metal sheath/shell of the element.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/oneokie/100_0063rev.jpg
After grinding all I could with the die grinder, I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to break off the remaining piece of sheath, and crush the ceramic insulation away from the heating element making a new pigtail.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/oneokie/100_0064rev.jpg
Then I used the die grinder to lightly polish the pigtail so as to have a good surface for the new crimp-on connector.

Then I made up a new lead to connect to the thermostat.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/oneokie/100_0065rev.jpg
The wire used is some I salvaged from an old gas cookstove.

I then soldered the connections, and connected to the thermostat terminal.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/oneokie/100_0066rev.jpg

Several years when I acquired this pot, I had to replace the lead on the other end of the heating element. [smilie=b:At that time I replaced the insulation with some I had also salvaged from the same cookstove.

Reassembled the pot and it now works like a champ. Am back in business of making 31141's.

For those who have one of these pots, this is what the metering rod from mine looks like
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/oneokie/100_0067rev.jpg
There have been several discussions here about what kind of profile is needed for the metering rod. It does drip occasionaly, but not often. I could easily add weight to the lift arm and eliminate these drips. I personally like the square end on the rod as it leaves very little area for something to prevent the rod from shutting off the flow.

[darkroommike]

You soldered the connections on a pot that's made to get hotter than solder? I think/hope the crimp on will hold without solder in this application.

[oneokie]

You soldered the connections on a pot that's made to get hotter than solder? I think/hope the crimp on will hold without solder in this application.

Yes, and Yes.

The terminal ends of the element is made/designed so that it does not heat like the majority of the length of the element. Depending on the application/design, this can be anywhere from 2.5" and longer.

Examine the coil on an electric range, the ends of the coil that the power leads connect to do hot get as hot as the main part of the coil.

Lead solder has a higher melt temp. than lead/tin/antimony solder. Then ends of the element are bent away from the pot. Insulation placed in this area helps shield the connection from the radiant heat.

[jsizemore]

Stop by a appliance parts store and ask for some high temp connectors. They'll sell by the piece or a mixed assortment pre-packaged for about $.25 a piece.

[Kraschenbirn]

Been there, done that with a Saeco 24...several times!! From my experience, your crimp-on connectors will have a limited lifespan. Eventually, they'll corrode (accelerated by sustained high temps?) and gradually disintegrate until the connection fails. Not criticizing your work - not by any means - just don't expect the fix to last forever. I did similar repairs three or four times on my 30+ year-old Saeco in the last three years I was using it. Now, it sits under my workbench...one of those "when I get around to it" projects...with a printout of the procedure for installing a new heating element folded inside.

Bill