moly coating

[Blammer]

was reading a thread and the writer mentioned about brass build up in the firearm.

I was just wondering if anyone moly coats their swaged projectiles to reduce fouling?

[shaggist]

I use Lyman Super Moly as my bullet sizer lube. In addition, I put a little on my fingertips and roll the bullet between them, so that the lands are also covered. I don't have a chrony, so I can't speak about increases in velocity versus a different lube situation. It just makes good sense to do so, given Moly's known friction reducing qualities in high friction situations. It suits me, so I do it. It doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in the fouling that I see when cleaning the gun after shooting. YMMV.

[DukeInFlorida]

I'd much rather have a little brass fouling, and amazing XTP style bullets. Seems a simple trade off.

The moly seems to get everywhere, and is often difficult to remove from a barrel, whereas the use of a copper remover is a simple solution to the brass skid marks.

It's certainly nothing compared to normal LEAD fouling.

[Bwana]

I moly coat all my Hybrid bullets. I then run them through the sizer one more time to further bind the moly to the jackets. From 9mm to 45-70, that's how I roll.

[n.h.schmidt]

Hi
Lyman Super moly seems to have some good qualites when it comes to extream sizeing . In my 6.5 carcano I need a .271 dia. boolit to fit the way oversize barrel.
I can get this by sizeing down 270 cal jacketed boolits .They start out at .277 and size down to .271 in one pass on a home made push through sizer. If I use normal sizeing lubes Imperial sizeing wax, STP, and RCBS 2 the boolits will stick partway and not move again until driven out. When puting a thick layer of the moly lube on the jacked boolit ,it will size without much effort.
This also is true when extream sizeing of cast rifle boolits. I can take .010 off of a 8mm cast boolit in one pass when rubbed with th moly lube. No sticking and not much distortion.
Never had a problem in cleaning the rifles when useing the moly lube.
n.h.schmidt

[GRUMPA]

So far I have no issues with brass fouling yet, although I've only shot 50 or so 45acp the barrel looks great. I'm just curious what speed your taking them to, to have fouling. When I get mine done I tumble mine in the stainless media and they are actually a copper color. When I can get my computer back up and running (Hard-drive Crash) I'll be writing a review I hope to be rather in depth about and I'll see about posting pictures (no software for it yet) when I do.

[DCM]

I can see good merit in using a moly lube for sizing operations of the brass as it is a great high pressure lube.

I will NEVER EVER use it again to coat my bullets! I was talked in to coating my bullets with molydenumdisulfide in the 90s when I shot 3k-6k round of ammo per year in competition. What I learned was that it is

1:much easier to remove copper fouling than moly

2:due to #1 you usually do not get all of the molly out

3:you end up with a moly build up that causes zero shifts:-(

4:when you do get most or all of the moly out you need to waste ammo on fouling shots before the gun settles down again.:-(

5:you do NOT gain barrel life as you must waste ammo for fouling shots and you must use more powder per round to obtain the same velocity as you had before moly. Gas cutting from the powder is the main culprit in barrel life not bullet friction, look at magnums shooting the same bullet weights as non magnums, the 220 swift etc. A little cutting torch in each round and you just turned the gas up!:-(

6:due to the fact that you must use more powder, waste ammo, buy moly and all the equipment to apply it, it is costing you more time and $ than it is worth.:-(

7: that moly junk gets on EVERYTHING, dies, hands, presses, load benches, everything you touch and when coating probably your lungs(in small amounts). It is a PIA mess!:holysheep

Much more hassle, waste of time, money, equipment and mess than it is worth IMO!

There is a very small plus side to moly coating: It can TEMPORARILY help to bring back accuracy in barrels with throat erosion problems, probably by "filling in the holes". But it is a temporary fix that I FEEL is not worth all the BS.

Again moly lubricants are excellent for high pressure applications, but I sure don't want moly in MY bores.

[Bwana]

In regards to DCM's post:

My Sav 10FP had almost 7000 rnds through it before I called it quits. The last 6000 were all Moly coated (Lyman). First off, if you're going to shoot moly coated bullets then I suggest that all your bullets in that gun be moly coated. You don't "remove" the coating, you just get rid of the excess. Never encountered zero shifts due to moly. As far as "fouling" shots go, you would do that with uncoated bullets too and you have to fire fewer with moly. Didn't coat for "extra bbl life" and they all went through paper so velocity wasn't critical. The moly can get onto and into "everything" so you must excercise some care when dealing with it; much like many other aspects of our hobby.
The payoff with moly is that I could shoot around 85 rounds before the barrel needed to be "cleaned" to maintain the level of accuracy I expected and knew the gun could deliver. I could shoot up to 85 rounds off the bench at 100yds and all 85 rnds would deliver a single group I could cover with a quarter. Now this was with a 36X scope and there was no crosswind; but, hey I couldn't complain. I miss that BBL. It now wears a A&B .358 Win bbl that I shoot my moly coated Hybrids out of. The groups aren't nearly that good; but, it is a 1 1/4" 10 rnd gun.

[rancherbill]

I use moly on all of my lead bullets but I do it a little differently. I tumble the cores in moly powder and let the cores smash the powder into the lead,then I swage to the final shape. The powder is stable and I get no build up in the barrel or action. With a gas check I push them to 2200+ without any sign of leading. I like to shoot big bore stuff but I use it a lot in my 30-30's and 30-40's with great results. I get the moly powder from McMaster-Carr.

[DCM]

Bwana I used moly on j word bullets for 3 years straight no non coated stuff until the irregular zero shifts pulled the last straw. It was a long ride home from the match that day and a long week of thought that followed. I cleaned the snot out of that barrel, shot a bunch of j words through it, cleaned it again and never had a repeat of the zero shifts with bare bullets.

The matches I shot were EIC 50 shot, XC80 shot & XC 100shot, all matches were @ 200,300& 600Yds usualy ending the day at 600. I never clean my rifle during a match when I used bare J words or moly J words and very rarely saw anyone else do so.

Velocity is a factor when shooting at 300 and much more so at 600 yards, lower velocity = more wind drift = more lost points than the guy next to you who shot at the same time when the wind changed and screwed you both up.

As far as fouling shots I never needed them with uncoated bullets if I thoroughly dried out the bore after cleaning it. If I properly cleaned and dried the bore the first shot would be right where it should be. This is essential for EIC matches as just like hunting you don't get sighters!

I have never tried moly coating boolits, but have wondered about it a few times. But I believe the O.P. was talking about hand made J words.

It is your gun, equipment and loading area you can and will do as you please.

[Blammer]

I was "presuming" right or wrong, that homemade jacketed boolits (out of brass cases) could possibly foul more and IF moly coating might be an asset.

Didn't mean to start a "moly war" :D

I have one rifle I shoot nothing but moly boolits out of.

So far so good for me.