50/50 solder

[mac3]

Getting back in to smelting / casting (been 25 years ago). I understand 50 /50 solder is a thing of the past. It's what I "used to use". What is a comp? New solder is 90 /10 with tin and antimony. At what ratio, or can it be used, to enhance WW to an approximate Lyman #2? Basically, what is the new (and improved???) recipe? It shouldn't be like this, damn the EPA. Thanks, Mac.

[bumpo628]

If you mix the following you can get something close to Lyman #2:
1 lb of solder (95% tin, 5% antimony)
20 lbs of clip on WW (assuming 0.5% tin, 3% antimony)
= 21 lbs of alloy with 5% tin, 3.10% antimony

Another way to do it would be to mix that solder with some magnum shot:
1 lb of solder (95% tin, 5% antimony)
18 lbs of magnum shot (6% antimony)
= 19 lbs of alloy with 5% tin, 5.95% antimony

You can get a copy of my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

[garym1a2]

Solder I use at work is 96.5sn/3.5ag, tin/silver. Also we still get 63sn/37pb. You only need about 3% tin or less

[cajun shooter]

Mac3, 50/50 solder is still available from many resources. The more sought after 63/37 is what most casters prefer to use these days. I have paid as little as $4 a pound to $7 and above for it.
If you read the stickies as all new comers should then you will find plenty of alloy info. The book that is on there by Glen Fryxell is a must read if you are serious about casting. I would also suggest that you buy a copy of the Lyman cast bullet handbook. The new 4th edition is out but the 3rd is full of valuable info and even though I have been casting since 1969-70 I use it all the time. Later David

[Sonnypie]

You don't say where you are. Bimpo's got the metals nailed down for you.
So I'm going to talk economics.

Here in Commyfornia, lead is hard to get. Except through Rotometals, a site sponsor.
I ordered 35 pounds ($110 my cost (tax, tax, tax, tax, tax)) of Lyman #2 (http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/lyman2bulletmetal.htm) to get the free shipping, and have 1000 30 cal Boolits lubed and ready to load. Some loaded for testing, the rest bagged. I don't know how many pounds I have left. But enough for a nice stash. I could bring it in and weigh it but I don't care.
And I cast up a pile of 45 cal for the 1911 ACP.

I called one of my local ranges and they sell Magnum Shot for $35 for a 25# bag. I needed some anyway for the shotgun press, so I got 100#. It's a good deal. (New, not reclaimed)
But if you want Lyman #2 formula, it quickly looses it's luster. :(
All I did was add some 95/5 lead-free solder (High in Tin) to get a good fill. But the stuff I got was expensive per pound. So for less fuss and bother, I think my next purchase will be back at Rotometals.
Rotometals tin (http://www.rotometals.com/Tin-Ingot-s/27.htm) is about $7 less than the 95/5 solder. (Pound for pound)
I did a calculation on what I currently see both ways and I only save about $29 for a 50 pound pile of alloy by doing my own VS: buy Rotometals. Not including time and energy. (I do mine electrically)
But I like having the shot around anyway. I ran out of empty shotgun casings today. :bigsmyl2:

If the USPS hadn't sent my order to Connecticut, I'd be sizing and loading 45's like a madman. But my sizer die and 6 cavity mold is on the East Coast and hasn't moved in 2 days. (It's been 4 days since I placed the order. I am PISSED!)

Rotometals (http://www.rotometals.com/default.asp) has outstanding customer service!

[Matt_G]

You don't need to make Lyman #2 equivalent.
Just matching the Sn percentage to the Sb percentage will get you most of the benefit.
Figure the WW"s are 2 to 2.5% Sb; just adding 2 to 2.5% Sn will do it.
Read chapter 3 of Glen's book here:
Alloy Selection and Metallurgy (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_3_alloySelectionMetallurgy.ht m)

Keep an eye on Swapping and Selling for solder. In fact there is some for sale there right now but you better hurry!!
62/38 solder (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=126557)

[blackbike]

cast you`r ww and #2 first and try it , then add tin if neeeded

[michiganvet]

50/50 solder is used for copper heating lines because it doesn't need to be lead free and is cheaper.
95/5 is used for copper potable water lines because it is lead free but the high tin content makes it very expensive.
pipefitter, retired