Best Options For Cleaning Barrels After Cast Boolits....

[UtopiaTexasG19]

Until this last month I reloaded for years with clad commercial bullets and have just now started casting my own lead boolits and applying gas checks for my rifles. In the past I was pretty hum-drum about cleaning my rifles but with using cast lead boolits have become aware that I need to do a better job and be more consistant with my cleaning regime. The catalogs and internet are chocked full of cleaning supplies and tools and it makes my head spin looking at all the options. What is your favorite/best cleaning kit/tool and what do you think the best chemical/cleaning tecnique works to keep a barrel from leading up? Also, as lead sits in the barrel is it harder to clean out as time goes on? Thanks...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Cleaning...I use Ed's Red, here is a fairly informative thread:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48068&highlight=Eds+Red

when I am removing Lead fouling, I use a brass jag with a cloth patch with a tiny amount
of 0000 steel wool wrapped on it.

Copper??? I use Hoppes copper remover, any Ammonia based gun barrel cleaner will do,
follow the directions and don't contaminate to original bottle for future use.
Jon

[onondaga]

I have only used cast boolits for many years. My rifles don't have leading problems in any caliber. Boolit fit is the primary solution to avoid leading. All bores have been slugged and boolits selected as cast size or sized so that all boolits are + .002 to +.003" over groove diameter of the bores. Gas checked boolits also improve your chances against leading.

My at home cleaning is simple and easy, rarely needed at all but I do have a routine:

A Hoppe's Bore Snake for the caliber is dry pulled through the bore once every 5 - 10 rounds at the range.

Home cleaning I use Hoppe's Elete Gun Cleaner. I get the 8 ounce spray pump bottle version of Elete. I put the muzzle down in a waste bucket and support the firearm. Spray several times into the chamber and let the liquid run out the muzzle. Allow to stand for 4 minutes.. Spray your bristle brush wet with Elete , spray the barrel a couple more times then bristle brush the bore once for each shot taken and 10 times more for good measure, then patch dry. The procedure rarely needs to be repeated to get the bore clean as there is only powder fowling in the bore and a lube star on the muzzle.

Don't let leading get to be a problem, start with boolits that fit and adequate lube to get a lube star on the muzzle after 5 shots. If you have rough bores that lead and cannot be remedied with boolit fit and lube, evaluate the possibility of bore honing and the desire to get rid of the firearm against your desire to keep it and suffer the chores and nightmares of shooters that don't slug their bores and fit their boolits or just shoot rough bore firearms that are dismal to maintain..

Alloy selection is important also but the complexities of that can easily be ironed out with a little study. It is difficult to go wrong by following the procedures discussed in "Modern Reloading" Second Edition by Richard Lee and gas checked boolits greatly extend the recommendations of Lee on alloy selection proportionate to load pressure.

The Bore Snake itself does need occasional cleaning too. After about 100 uses I soak it with Mean Green or 409, let stand for an hour then rinse thoroughly by agitating it in a pail with running warm water. Hang to dry over-nite and it will be near new clean again.
Gary

[Shiloh]

Cleaning...I use Ed's Red, here is a fairly informative thread:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48068&highlight=Eds+Red

when I am removing Lead fouling, I use a brass jag with a cloth patch with a tiny amount
of 0000 steel wool wrapped on it.

Copper??? I use Hoppes copper remover, any Ammonia based gun barrel cleaner will do,
follow the directions and don't contaminate to original bottle for future use.
Jon

+1

I use Ed's Red almost exclusively.

Copper Chore Boy for the Rare leading issues. A phosphor bronze cleaning brush works as well.

Any of the ammonia based products for copper. I use Sweet's 7.62 and Montana
X-treme. Any will work.

Shiloh

[winelover]

I find that Kroil works for me as a bore cleaner and minor lead loosener. Saturate a patch and run it down the bore. Let it sit a bit and follow with a brass brush. Another wet patch followed by a dry one. Works for me. Occasionally,I use JB Bore paste also. I find that Kroil also works well for removing sheared off brass cases that have gotten stuck in the action of my Marlin 1894!

Winelover

[blackthorn]

One more thing--Amonia (even the fumes) will weaken the integrity of (primer) brass!!! I do Not use any amonia product anywhere near my primer storage or where I have primed/loaded cases. I do use amonia for copper removal but that operation is done in a separate building. I do this based on what I have read and I have no first hand experience of damage because I have never allowed either primers or brass cases to be near amonia.

[dragonrider]

Outers Foul Out II is my most used cleaning device.

[sundog]

UTG19, GC'd boolits for rifles. If you are getting any appreciable amount of leading, something is not right. It is possible to shoot hundreds, and even thousands, of rounds without cleaning. No leading. Properly fitted boolits with a good loob will allow this.

When I do clean, either Ed's Red or Hoppes #9 makes a bore shine real good. The biggest problem I have ever had is a hard loob ring forming in the throat that had to be removed with a tornado brush. I guesstimated that there about 2,500 plus rounds through that barrel when that happened. Accuracy went south really fast.

[Wally]

Outers Foul Out II is my most used cleaning device.

Yes, this is a fantastic device that beats everyting else...more should have one IMHO.


Many think that their cleaning methods removes all the lead...I used to think that as well until I used the OFOII...

[mongo]

+1 on the copper chore boy pads, Just wrap some on an old brush and squirt some solvent, WD40 or what ever you like down the bore and a few swipes and the lead is gone. I would spend hours cleaning guns with a plain brush and solvent. Works like magic. Just make sure the chore boy is pure copper not copper plated steel.

[geargnasher]

Until this last month I reloaded for years with clad commercial bullets and have just now started casting my own lead boolits and applying gas checks for my rifles. In the past I was pretty hum-drum about cleaning my rifles but with using cast lead boolits have become aware that I need to do a better job and be more consistant with my cleaning regime. The catalogs and internet are chocked full of cleaning supplies and tools and it makes my head spin looking at all the options. What is your favorite/best cleaning kit/tool and what do you think the best chemical/cleaning tecnique works to keep a barrel from leading up? Also, as lead sits in the barrel is it harder to clean out as time goes on? Thanks...

First, to specifically answer your header question, if things are working like they should, the only fouling present in my barrels is light powder residue and a lube film. I clean the actions regularly as necessary for each gun, but as a rule a patch soaked with Ed's Red and a couple of dry patches is all that's needed to get the bores clean and enough to store for several months. Often, I don't clean at all, since rifle bores (except Chrom-moly and SS) tend to "season" like a dutch oven when consistently shooting cast boolits over time, and this prevents rust under reasonable, short-term storage conditions. Ed's, if not overdone, won't damage the "season". I don't interchange lead and jacketed anymore, haven't for years, too many complex fouling issues.

Now, if you shoot both copper-jacketed bullets and cast boolits, or have a gun that has been fed copper bullets all it's life and now want to shoot cast in it, you will need to take aggressive action to remove all traces of copper before shooting cast. For this, the Outer's Foul Out III can't be beat. You might have to degrease, run the FO, clean/degrease, run the FO a half-dozen times or more to finally get through all the layers, but when you're done you can manage the fouling from short sessions of copper bullets with the liquid, ammonia-based cleaners. Just be sure and decopper after even shooting two or three copper bullets and before shooting lead again.

For lead fouling, I found the Outer's cleaning set up to be less than stellar, the lead cleaning solution doesn't remove tin or antimony as best as I can tell, so the lead stays put as well. My best advice is bronze brushes wrapped with patches cut from a 100% pure copper Chore Boy pad and /or 4-ought steel or bronze wool. Use Ed's Red or any general powder fouling cleaner as a lube and solvent while scrubbing the lead out. Once you get the bore clean, lightly oil it with any kind of gun oil, and figure out why it leaded in the first place and try to correct that so you won't have to go through it again.

Gear

[jonk]

I run a wet copper brush down the bore for 3-4 passes dipped in the cleaning solvent of your choice (I use Ed's Red or surplus white can GI bore cleaner). Then 2 wet patches and dry.

Unless a neglected or heavily leaded bore this is enough to clean up anything that I shoot. For pitted old bores, or for general copper removal, I use a foaming cleaner.

[fourarmed]

I use Ed's Red as a powder solvent, but long experience has convinced me that Kroil will get lead out much better. One loose-fitting wet patch, let sit for a few minutes, then a couple of tight, wet patches, and anything but really heavy lead deposits are going to be gone. The Kroil will penetrate under small deposits very quickly. Heavy stuff needs mechanical help. There's where the Chore Boy patches come in.

[largom]

My cast boolit guns do not lead the barrels so I only clean out the carbon. For this I use KG-1 carbon remover from KG Ind. One wet patch, let stand for few minutes then use dry patches until barrel is dry. I have also used Ed's Red and Kroil for this also. I do not attempt to get the barrel squeaky clean, just remove carbon. The KG-1 will also remove small traces of copper if present.

For jacketed bullets I first remove the carbon as above. Then I use a Sharp Shooter product called "Wipe-Out". Wet the bore, let it sit awhile and then patch out with dry patches. Wipe-Out is available as a liquid called Patch-Out or as a foaming bore cleaner. I have and use both. If cleaning a customers heavy fouled barrel, I use the foam cleaner and let sit over night. These products do not contain any ammonia. If using ammonia cleaners you should never let it sit in your barrel for an extended period of time. Ammonia can and will etch steel.

Larry

[Spector]

As geargnasher stated.....''you will need to take aggressive action to remove all traces of copper before shooting cast.''

I have read many times that any trace of copper fouling will cause problems if shooting lead.

Plus one on the Choir Boy. I have wrapped a thread of copper around both patched jags and brushes. It seems to work well if leading is present.

I always had at least minor traces of leading in my Glock 21 and the Choir Boy always removed it better and easier than anything else I tried. My Vetterli rifle has showed no signs of leading on the other hand so I just go after the powder fouing when cleaning it.

Starting with a very clean bore the next thing, as many here will say, is boolit fit.

Mike

[Char-Gar]

I have leaded a rifle barrel so I know nothing about that. For powder fouling, I use Ed's Red on a nylon brush, followed by two more wet patched and a couple of dry ones and that is it.

[leadman]

Hoppe's #9 is what I use mostly. I am not into alot of labor when cleaning so use the following method.
If there is alot of fouling I will use the purple cleaner sold at Walmart and auto stores (super clean, purple power). Do not get this on aluminum and/or anodized parts. I clean the heaviest fouling out with this cleaner, then run a dry patch thru the bore.
Hoppe's #9 is then used to swab the bore. I let this set 15 minutes or so and then wet a brush with H#9 and run it thru the bore several times. A couple more patches with H#9 then put it away muzzle down for a day or a week. When you get back to it you will not believe the stuff that is in the bore.
Hoppe's #9 won't hurt the bore and is what I leave in the bore when stored. Now I live in phoenix so we don't have alot of moisture. If you live in a moist area this might not work to stop rust so finish with oil.

[onondaga]

That Hoppe's Elete pump spray I mention in reply #3 has been very good for me and it has none of the odor of #9 or any of the cleaners mentioned.
So, if you get complaints about the smell of your solvents try Elete.. I actually like the results better than #9 or even Kroil.

Gary

[btroj]

I mostly just use a few dry patches. Unless you get leading why clean? I spend more time cleaning the actions of my lever actions than I do the barrels. Revolvers get cleaned ever 500 to 1000 rounds, mostly to keep the cylinders free wheeling.

When I do clean I use whatever solvent I have on hand. I don't worry what it is, I find they all do fine on powder and lube. Last time it was Hoppes. 3 dollars more for a quart than shooters choice was for a pint. It wasn't a tough decision at all.

[725]

I use a liberal amount of Kroil with patches at the range when I'm done shooting. The warm barrel takes the Kroil very well. I leave them wet with Kroil and when I get home I do a proper cleaning with Ed's Red. Any trouble barrels get a good soaking with Kroil and after a few days, they usually clean right up.

[milprileb]

Well now, seems a lot of home brew solutions from the posters and clearly, folks are creatures of habit on cleaning weapons. I won't get into the Hoppes 9 vs Eds Red vs. Shooters Choice vs any other product as minds are obviously set on their favorite. Solvents do what solvents do.

Now for taking lead out, then I will flatly state I am not seeing any Love for Kroil over any other solvent when patched or brushed (or both) into a bore. Kroil and Hoppes 50 50 mix (a long time favorite of Garand shooters on CMP boards) did no better than plain Hoppes and I tested that fully.

So use what every rocks your boat but do take note that the Chore Boy wrapped over a brass brush will swiftly get you into the end zone. This issue here is most Chore Boy for sale are not pure copper anymore so take a magnet when you shop for this stuff and be sure it is pure copper. This is not easy in my area of Northern Yuppie Occupied Virginia but Walgreens Drug Store sells pure copper ones and passed magnet test. Work swell and I bought six packs which is overkill but what the heck, if I got plenty then I got plenty.

Lastly on Kroil: there is a stickie on its use on molds. Pure disaster for me and I won't use it in a mold again. However the numbers of folks who '
like it for molds is large. This is incomprehensible but it proves results with this stuff is all over the map sheet. I suspect Kroil has gotten a legend
reputation for a lot of uses of which it fails greatly but is erroneously given credit for success. Its a penetrating oil and nothing more. It is good for that
purpose and thats what it is. It is not some Elixir that does it all. Actually, if you rub hard enough, patch enough, any oil will do some good in cleaning out a bore. Kroil is a oil , plain and simple. You could take transmission fluid (Eds Red main ingrediant) and patch a bore with it and get the bore clean.

So if you are new into this game: don't jump on Kroil unless you want a penetrating oil. The press on Kroil is suspect !

[odis]

Back in the 70s I had leading problems with a 1911 barrel shooting commercial cast ammo and what worked great for cleaning the lead out was Pearl Drops toothpaste. I don't know if they changed the formula but it was like a valve grinding compound back then. I have often wondered how many people ground their teeth down too nubs using that stuff.

[fredj338]

when I am removing Lead fouling, I use a brass jag with a cloth patch with a tiny amount
of 0000 steel wool wrapped on it.
follow the directions and don't contaminate to original bottle for future use.
Jon
My bbls never see a steel bore brush or steel wool. Copper ChoreBoy works great, easy & fast w/ any solvent or even a little Kroil oil. Just wrap as amll amount around a used bronze bore brush.

[bamacisa]

My cast bullets don't lead up my pistol barrels. After shooting I just use Hoppe's or Shooters Choice and copper brush. I then leave a coat of Break Free (CLP) I have had no problems peroid.

[shotman]

If any of you have shot a 460 smith with the lead comp on you KNOW what leading is . I soaked the comp in Kroil over night and next day a soft tooth brush was all that was needed

[rodsvet]

After 40+ years of casting and shooting and thinking I was getting the lead out, I got a Foul-out2. I was shocked at the amount of lead remaining in the bores after cleaning. Lead can be polished with a patch and make the bore look great. Try it and you will be a believer!! Rod

[25-20SS]

To repeat what has already been said above, the product " Ed's Red " , is most effective for removing fouling from a rifle bore. Some folks vary the formula, and make it up in large quanties. However, it is at it's best when purchased in the original formula which is a Mil. Spec.

[XWrench3]

ed's red is simply awesome. i use two different formulas. one for lead boolits, and the ed's red plus for copper bullets. i do change up whatever i am using every once in a while, because a different formula will clean out deposits left behind by the one you normally use. basically, i make up ed's red by the gallon. way more economical than any store bought stuff, and cleans very well. as for removing lead from the bore goes, a bronze brush wrapped with copper scouring pad strands (like chore boy) works wonders, fast. there is no reason to fear shooting lead boolits. all you have to know are the "tricks of the trade" so to speak, and shoot away. there is no better place to learn the "tricks of the trade" than right here.

[geargnasher]

ed's red is simply awesome. i use two different formulas. one for lead boolits, and the ed's red plus for copper bullets. i do change up whatever i am using every once in a while, because a different formula will clean out deposits left behind by the one you normally use. basically, i make up ed's red by the gallon. way more economical than any store bought stuff, and cleans very well. as for removing lead from the bore goes, a bronze brush wrapped with copper scouring pad strands (like chore boy) works wonders, fast. there is no reason to fear shooting lead boolits. all you have to know are the "tricks of the trade" so to speak, and shoot away. there is no better place to learn the "tricks of the trade" than right here.

Well put, you can go behind just about any cleaner with a different cleaner and get more junk out of the barrel. One thing about Ed's, the ATF film stays behind and softens even more powder/lube fouling deep in the pores of the metal, so next time you patch it out with anything, including more Ed's, the patch will be black again.

In the majority of cases, I can't justify cleaning a barrel to that degree unless it's a first-time scrubdown for a new rifle that's badly fouled, like copper/powder fouling that takes multiple sessions alternating between the Outers FOIII a soaking in Ed's or Kroil. Once a start shooting cast boolits in a gun, unless I have lead fouling, I don't really scrub out the bores, more of a wipe-out and be done, lots of times a little powder and lube fouling filling up the cracks and micro-pits helps the gun shoot, at least so it seems to me.

Gear

[milprileb]

However, it is at it's best when purchased in the original formula which is a Mil. Spec.

The military does not use Eds Red. It is not a milspec product. If it works for you ,then all the better.

Break Free CLP: when I can buy a quart for $5 from J&C Sales at the gun show, I wonder how cost effective mixing up a quart of Eds really is? Break Free by the way is MILSPEC

Now MILSPEC for me is significant only in lube and care of AR15 / M16 series weapons as its purpose made for them. Its not relevant for
cleaning barrels shot with cast bullets for me over other solvents or products.

For cast bullet shot barrels, I seem to get the same results with Eds, Break Free, Kroil, Hoppes, Kroil 50 50 with Hoppes and Ballistol.

Maybe I need to mix ATF with Break Free?

Chasing the perfect bore cleaning is beginning to feel like chasing FOG

[44man]

I just found some leading in my new revolver, not bad but enough to feel. I make my own jags out of brass for tight fits. I used Butch's triple twill patches and Hoppe's. These things are great having a rippled surface. They also fit tight and I have to rap on the rod handle to start them.
All of the lead came out on the first patch, never found anymore.
I went ahead and did a full cleaning with M-Pro 7 and a bronze brush to remove all carbon yet found no more lead. This stuff is great on cylinders, scrub with brushes and even most of the carbon ring comes off the front. The stuff foams and I just rinse the cylinder in the sink with hot water.
I need a larger brush for chambers, those .50 cal holes are huge.
Now I will make some harder alloy boolits. They will smooth the bore better then jacketed.

[res45]

Actually Ed's Red is a modern day version of Frankfort Arsenal Cleaner #18 which was developed by Julian Hatcher who was the Chief of the Small Arms Division in the Ordnance Department and the Assistant Commandant of the Ordnance School US ARMY.

Original ingredients of the Frankfort Arsenal Cleaner #18

Pratts Astral Oil,modern day equivalent K1 Kerosene.

Sperm oil,prior to 1950 all AFT fluid was sperm oil,modern day equivalent Dexron III ATF fluid.

Turpentine,Modern day equivalent aliphatic mineral spirits used for thinning oil base paints.

Acetone,100% Acetone fingernail polish remover.

So what does it cost to make up a quart of Ed's Red,well I make up mine by the gallon four equal parts of each ingredient which ends up working out to roughly $11 per gal. or $2.75 per qt.

K1 Kerosene $3.90 per gal. or 97 cents per qt.

Dexron III ATF fluid $2.75 per qt.

Aliphatic mineral spirits $9.00 per gal. $2.25 per qt.

Acetone $5 per qt.


Me and my casting and shooting buddy made up a batch of Ed's Red over a year ago and split it,I'm still working on the first quart and I have to say it's one of the best all around gun cleaners I've ever used. It's amazing how quickly it dissolves the carbon ring buildup on the front of my revolver cylinders.

XWrench3,I didn't realize there was Ed's Red copper remover formula,found it on the net. I've just been using ACE Hardware 10% Janitors strength ammonia mixed 4 parts ammonia to 1 part water and it has worked just fine much cheaper at $3 per qt.

[geargnasher]

I have a short glass container with a well-fitting coated steel lid (repurposed salsa jar) that I keep full of Ed's Red for the sole purpose of soaking revolver cylinders. Ten minutes and a quick scrub with a nylon brush and it's clean.

Gear

[bobthenailer]

Most of my handguns dont really lead the bore ! i usually shoot a few gas checked bullets when done shooting and clean the bore with a bore snake . with autos i will use a chamber brush to remove crud from the chamber . I cant remember the last time i used bore solvent to clean my handgun barrels as i shoot cast 99.99 % of the time. but i do clean & lube my guns regulary , i have found that Flitz Metal polish works wonders on stainless steel revolvers it takes me about 8 minuets to clean a revolver that includes the chambers , front & rear of the cyl, the window in the frame & the exterior of the gun .

[The Virginian]

I have been using Ed's Red with the Chore Boy for over 10 years and it is the best at getting the lead out for me.

[parisite]

The best bore/gun cleaner I've ever used is diesel fuel. I keep 3-4 inches of diesel in a plastic tub and bathe my handguns in it. It's simply a great light oil solvent and makes my bores stay mirror bright and bluing look wonderful. And I don't have to buy ingredients to make a special concoction. I shoot my handguns a good bit every weekend and I just don't have any trouble with leading even with full house 44 Mags. After cleaning I blow off the excess with an air hose then wipe semi dry then lube as usual.

[GabbyM]

Just an FYI:
Our new ultra low sulfur diesel fuel (ULSDF) is better than the old stuff for cleaning. Obviously sulfur caused issues. Any product sharing a pipeline with ULDF has to be sulfur free to keep the line clean of it. So none of the heating oils or Kerosene has sulfur anymore. D2 fuel has many additives most of which are toxic. As a solvent it’s like the K-1 kerosene in Ed’s Red. K-1 smells better but not everyone has easy supply to it.

I coughed up ten bucks for a gallon jug of K-1 off the shelf. But now I’ve a clearly marked K-1 container I can top up a the local pump whenever it gets low. Will have plenty of oil lamp fuel for power outages.

Mixed at 50/50 K-1 and ATF makes a great thin gun oil. As per ER recipe.

[parisite]

D2 fuel has many additives most of which are toxic.


Yes I would imagine diesel would be toxic..........if you drank it.

ATF really isn't good for you either and just a hunch, probably would be toxic too.

[gofastman]

My experience with leading is limited to .22LR, but ill share my thoughts.
standard cleaning:
-bronze brush soaked with CLP, pass through the barrel 10-15 times
-let soak for at least 30min, overnight is better
-rebrush once or twice
-run a few patches down the barrel with a jag
-finish with a boresnake with a small amount of CLP on it
Revolver cylinders get the same treatment, sans the boresnake, and the bronze brush gets replaced with a SS "tornado" brush

deleading:
same as above, after that is done:
-Patch with Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Any dedicated lead remover can be used, IME there all pretty mediocre :rolleyes:.
-let sit 20min or so
-wrap a bit of Chore Boy around a bronze brush and pass through, depending on the severity of the leading, you may need to do this A LOT*
-run a few more patches down the barrel with a jag
-finish with a boresnake with a small amount of CLP on it


*the lead remover is more or less a formality, I feel lead is best removed mechanically rather than chemically.

[onondaga]

I have no clue why you guys shy away from Hoppe's Elete. I tried it when it first came out years ago. I will never go back to all the stinky cleaners. Elete works great and comes in a Gel or a pump spray.I always have both on hand . NO SMELL and works better than Hoppe's #9.

Gary

[The Virginian]

+2 for this method, cheap, easy and very effective.


+1

I use Ed's Red almost exclusively.

Copper Chore Boy for the Rare leading issues. A phosphor bronze cleaning brush works as well.

Any of the ammonia based products for copper. I use Sweet's 7.62 and Montana
X-treme. Any will work.

Shiloh

[The Virginian]

Mil Spec original formula used Sperm Whale Oil which is no longer harvested from these leviathans.
ATF is actually more effective. Adding some Marvel Mystery Oil seems to make it work a bit better too.


To repeat what has already been said above, the product " Ed's Red " , is most effective for removing fouling from a rifle bore. Some folks vary the formula, and make it up in large quanties. However, it is at it's best when purchased in the original formula which is a Mil. Spec.

[The Virginian]

It was Mil Spec and not called Ed's Red about 80 or so years ago. The formula is found in Col. Hatcher's Notebook.


However, it is at it's best when purchased in the original formula which is a Mil. Spec.

The military does not use Eds Red. It is not a milspec product. If it works for you ,then all the better.

Break Free CLP: when I can buy a quart for $5 from J&C Sales at the gun show, I wonder how cost effective mixing up a quart of Eds really is? Break Free by the way is MILSPEC

Now MILSPEC for me is significant only in lube and care of AR15 / M16 series weapons as its purpose made for them. Its not relevant for
cleaning barrels shot with cast bullets for me over other solvents or products.

For cast bullet shot barrels, I seem to get the same results with Eds, Break Free, Kroil, Hoppes, Kroil 50 50 with Hoppes and Ballistol.

Maybe I need to mix ATF with Break Free?

Chasing the perfect bore cleaning is beginning to feel like chasing FOG

[Texantothecore]

A few observations:

Hoppes made its chops when in it was 95-96 percent kerosene. Kerosene = 4.00/gal, Hoppes= 132.00/gal
During WWII, the troops cleaned their rifles with 40SAE truck oil that came out of a 55 gal drum that was present on every supply truck. Very loose engines, but reliable. Most of the Garands came back still in military spec.
Chore Boy is wonderful for lead removal but bronze wool which always seems to be in good supply at Ace hardware is even better.