which blue to use .

[adrians]

ok guys i need opinions on "cold bluing " .
i have narrowed it down to 2 choices .
#1 oxpho blue .
#2 vans home blue.
iv'e eliminated all others .
given those two which would you use and why?.
this is my doner metal,,,,,

[gnoahhh]

For a little home project like that, I would first try the Oxpho blue. I've come to like it as it wears fairly well for a cold blue. I've even done a complete rifle with the stuff as an experiment on a truck gun that I didn't want to put much money into. Ten years later after a lot of rough use, it still looks pretty good.

[Thin Man]

+1 on Oxphoblue.

[3006guns]

Another alternative at the end of this article:

http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/58

According to sources I've seen, this is the same nitre bluing chemical sold by some supply outfits at a much higher price. I've never tried it, but for the price and longevity I'd sure experiment and see if it's worthwhile.

A caution from experience: I had a S&W Military and Police professionally reblued once and the cylinder came out purple...something about the heat treating I was told. Don't know if the gunsmith was trying to cover a screw up or not, but it sure looked odd.

[adrians]

thanks fellas ,i'm heading to home despot to see if they have "stump remover", if not oxpho will be in my brownell cart tonight,
thx adrian:twisted::redneck::evil:

[dragonrider]

I have use Oxpho blue and been satisfied.

[Bret4207]

Oxpho hands down. I've used it for over 30 years and it's never failed me. Make sure your gun is polished to the extent you want, because a blue won't make up for lack of prep. Then make absolutely sure there isn't a spot of oil anywhere and apply it with an absolutely oil free applicator. Warming the metal a little seems to help too. Just keep rubbing it in till it's get's a black as it seems it will get. Then start polishing with some of those old style brown paper towels, like in a mens room. Don't ask me why, but it seems to help, I read it in "Gunsmiths Kinks" I think. Then apply more blue. Follow with a good gun oil and you should be very happy.

[leftiye]

On two separate Colt Police Positive specials that I did complete cold blue jobs on, the ticket was to use Van's, wait a day or two, (no oil to stop action) and then apply Oxpho blue to get a dark black blue. (again no oil to stop action. Keep away from anything that will contaminate surface thereafter for a week. ironically, hands rubbing surface don't seem to cause any problems, actually may help.) A little 1500 grit surface treatment before blueing will give a nice luster.

[rmcc]

Ox for sure. More work but BLue Magic works great too.

[adrians]

well youv'e twisted me in oxpho's direction .
i think it would have been my choice but i needed some hands-on info to reasure me ,
thanks guy's and have a great night . adrians

[gnoahhh]

Be sure to show us a pic when you're done!

[hornsurgeon]

see, i go the other way. vans is great, but not if you follow the directions. i use brake cleaner to clean the part. then when dry, i heat the part using a propane torch to just hotter than you can hold. i then imerse the item to be blued and let it sit for a 30 seconds to 2 minutes. (this is the art now science part). then rinse, card, clean, heat, and redip. rinse card, rinse again. then heavily oil with ATF, allow to sit for a couple of minutes, then wipe off excess. i have done many custom rifles this way and they turn out well. it really does a great job with a fresh bead blasted finish. it will not give a deep black color, but it will be quite corosion resistant. my favorite 25-06 that i built on a mauser 98 action was drenched and frozen in 5 days of hunting last fall. all i did each night was to bring it inside, remove from the stock, and wipe dry. no reoiling or anything. it never got a spec of rust with this bluing.