field stripping a marlin 1894s

[mike in co]

i just saw the stickie on field stripping a winchester....
lever guns are new to me.....
any of the more experienced marlin lever gun members
feel like creating a stickie for the marlins ???

thanks
mike

[9.3X62AL]

The Marlin field-strip is positively simple compared to Winchesters. This applies to the modern Marlin lever rifles I've messed with--Models 336, 1894, 1895. I have no experience with pre-war Marlin lever guns.

After confirming unloaded condition, lay the rifle on its left side. Set the action lever about "1/3 open". Unscrew the lever pivot screw, located.......well, where the lever pivots. That done, the lever assembly (1 piece) can be withdrawn downward away from the action. Remember the positions of the lever and bolt for re-assembly ease.

Next--withdraw the bolt backwards out of the action. 1-piece assembly.

Next--the ejector is a little V-shaped part now visible with the bolt withdrawn. Remove it from its recess, noting the slot it fits into and the peg that locates into its action wall hole. This might be the most often lost gun part in world history, with the possible exception of S&W revolver rebound slide springs. Laying the rifle on its left side helps prevent ejector loss--it will fall free with minimal assistance by gravity. Marlin will mail you one in short order, if your local gunsmith is out of stock. I'll bet Marlin gets 10-20 requests per week for this one.

Done. Re-assembly is in reverse order, and if you re-locate the bolt as above, the lever/bolt actuator tip will easily find its way into the bolt recess it belongs in. If the lever won't line up for the pivot screw hole, you missed the connection. Move the bolt a little (it is in a slight bind from cocked hammer spring and ejector spring tensions), and re-try the lever fit.

The Marlin lever rifle design allows bore cleaning from the rear, just like a bolt rifle. I like that a lot.

If I haven't jacked this up--Marlin enthusiasts please help here--this might be worth stickying.

[454PB]

This is a very good description by Deputy Al, exactly the way I do it.

[NVcurmudgeon]

Deputy Al, that's a better description than the one in the Marlin owner's manual. It just occurred to me that having given Jaremy my .30/30 I'm down to one Marlin. Think I'll order an ejector forthwith! BTW, a 336 30/30 ejector will interchange both ways with an 1894 .44 Magnum Cowboy, even though they look quite different.

[9.3X62AL]

Hope it helps someone. Now, I should add that I haven't yet LOST one of the ejectors--but have searched intently for them more than once, often resorting to those parts magnets and expander/grabbers usually seen in the tool chests of Nissan and Toyota mechanics.

FWIW, I DO have several rebound slide springs and thumblatch spring/rod assemblies for S&W revolvers on hand. Those tiny damn things can get lost while in plain view like a whitetail buck on opening day, so spares for us revolver cranks are a near necessity. Brownell's stocks these in great depth, and I'm sure they do a brisk business.

[woody1]

Good job, Al. And Yup, it's the same for the pre-war Marlins clear back to, well I don't recall anything different on my '89. For sure the '93's, old Model '94's and '36's are the same. There's a touch of difference in the ejectors but they're in the same place and operate the same. Thot I'd lost an ejector once, crawled around on the floor, reached under everything I could, even emptied the trash can. It had dropped down inside the action! Regards, Woody

[Ken O]

Good job descibing Deputy. This is so simple there is no reason to clean from the muzzle end. It takes much longer to explain then to do.

[grumpy one]

I'm sure everyone figures this out for themselves, but I find it essential to push the hammer down with my thumb when reinstalling the bolt, so the bolt slides in without pressure or hassles. Rotate bolt so extractor rides in left side bolt groove - that is what locates it rotationally. To remove the extractor I just turn the gun over and bump it very gently with my hand from underneath - extractor falls through the ejector slot into my hand. To reinstall the extractor I put the back of it (the end with the projecting pin) into the front of the groove in the action, and slide it backward. The pin just drops into the hole. If you have any trouble getting the bolt to slide in, with the hammer held down, the extractor is out of position. You can check by looking whether the pin is sticking out slightly on the outside of the left side of the action. Just lay rifle on left side, pull out the bolt, reseat the extractor, hold down the hammer, offer up the bolt in the right rotational position, and it will slide straight in.

None of that is needed for Deputy Al's sticky - just about everyone will figure it out immediately. I wriggled a few things pointlessly for a few seconds on my first try long ago before I got it, so I thought I'd mention it. Disassembly and reassembly is a matter of seconds each way, no fiddling or heavy pushing involved. This is not like reassembling a 1911 Colt, which I always found to be a pig of a job, mainly because of the heavy pressure on the slide stop detent ball. The Marlin goes together like it was designed for a five year old to do it.

[9.3X62AL]

GOOD add-on, Grumpy One. Many thanks! Also, thanks to Woody for the old-version info. I have a Model 27-S whose receiver top end is like the 94's, except the ejector is secured in place.

[45r]

which one is the best revolver caliber.357,41,44, or 45 colt.I've thought about getting one as a compliment to one of my sixguns but can't decide between marlin 94 or puma 1892 in 454 casull.leaning towards marlin 45 colt cowboy. have a lot of good GC molds in 45 caliber and figure it would be better than getting kicked hard by 454 casull puma.Have heard a lot of praise for the 1892 but still haven't been able to decide.

[9.3X62AL]

Hard to answer this question for someone else--right now, the only "companion set" of rifle and revolver I have are in 32-20 WCF. In that chambering, the revolvers are a LOT more finicky as to load acceptance/accuracy than are the rifles, so on the few occasions I've carried both--the revolver load gets the nod. Lyman #311316 @ .313", 5.5-6.0 grains of SR-4756, WSP primers in R-P cases. High velocity loads go into Starline cases for ID, so they don't find their way into a revolver.

I had a 94 in 44 Mag some years ago, and the good loads in the revolvers (240 j-words or 250 GC) atop 24.0 x WW-296 shot very well in both platforms. Brief loan a few years later of a 94 in 357 Magnum showed the same story to be the case. The straightwall revolver rounds don't appear to be as finicky as the WCF hyphenated critters. The 44, 45 Colt, or 454 might make a better deer/hog/black bear rifle than the 357, but good projectiles like the 357 Maximum 180 FNGC or the Nosler Partition 180 would make the 357 rifle deer-capable for closer work. If hunting isn't in the cards, buy a rifle based on your existing tooling to save a few coins.

[454PB]

You can always load the .454 down, but you can't load the .45 Colt up.

However, unless you're hunting something really tough, the .45 Colt in a rifle is pretty impressive.

When I bought my Puma .454, it was about $200 less than a Marlin in .45 Colt.

[45r]

which 45 lever rifle shoots the most accurate with bullets sized .452 or .454 if necessary.would like a lever gun to shoot the same bullets as my revolvers but read that a lot of lever rifles have sloppy chamber and throat specs.wondering if it would be better to look for a used rifle and have it rebarreled with tight specs like a custom revolver.Is that possible or do you have to get a custom mold to fit oversize chamber in what the factories offer.

[rvpilot76]

Here a link not just for disassembly, but tuning and smoothing as well. I did all the smoothing operations to my 1895 Cowboy, and the difference is unbelievable; it's a completely different rifle.
http://www.marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

Kevin

[hollow-point]

great description! also helped with my 22magnum.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Kevin, You beat me to the punch. This site is used often by Cowboy Action shooters.

BTW, My original .38-40 Marlin 1894 (made in 1894) comes apart the same way.

Morgan

[Blackhawk Convertable]

Marauder's tips are the BEST!!!

http://www.marauder.homestead.com/fi...ING_M_1894.htm

[TGM]

The 1889 Marlin comes apart the same way with the exception the ejector is held in by a screw.

TGM

[rusty shackelford]

great description! thanks for the help.

rusty

[armyrat1970]

Here a link not just for disassembly, but tuning and smoothing as well. I did all the smoothing operations to my 1895 Cowboy, and the difference is unbelievable; it's a completely different rifle.
http://www.marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

Kevin

Wow. Thanks for the link Kevin.

[kingstrider]

After the first time you do this you could probably do it blindfolded with a timer. Marlins are great lever guns!

[hydraulic]

I had to replace the firing pin in a Model 36. Went to reassemble and no ejector. It wasn't lost, I knew right where it was, somewhere in my gun room. Moved everything in the place and finally gave up and put the rifle away. A week later I noticed that one of the little "v" shaped pieces of bark from the stove wood was lying on the floor. Picked it up and it turned out to be made of metal.

[chasw]

I too read the sticky on "field stripping" a Winchester Model 1886, if you can call it that. Marlin lever actions can be field stripped in a few seconds, compared to the extended journey the Winchester requires. I've heard Winchester Model 94s are even worse, with stories about rifles that have been in service for over 100 years, without ever being disassembled. One more thing about the Marlin rifles, both large and small, their actions are butter smooth. Compare that to the awkward clunky-ness of the Winchester 94. - CW

[ka0tqv]

Anyone had any experience with the FULLY copper plated bullet in the 357 MAGNUM cal? If so would like to know what your loads were and did it reduce leading? Just got a new 1894c, haven't fired it yet and trying to get info on handloading for it. Also who supplies copper plated bullets? Thanks Carl

[waksupi]

Anyone had any experience with the FULLY copper plated bullet in the 357 MAGNUM cal? If so would like to know what your loads were and did it reduce leading? Just got a new 1894c, haven't fired it yet and trying to get info on handloading for it. Also who supplies copper plated bullets? Thanks Carl

I don't know about the copper plated bullets. But, if you just get the proper size cast bullets, you will have no leading. If you have copper coated lead, all you will end up with is a badly copper fouled bore, if the bullets are not the correct size. I have rifles I have fired hundreds of cast rounds through with zero leading.

[leadchucker]

Hey guys would you pull down a rossi rio grande 30 30 the same way?

[smithywess]

The 1889 Marlin comes apart the same way with the exception the ejector is held in by a screw.

TGM

Some very early Marlin models of 1893 can also come with a similar screw in ejector. In such rifles the end of the screw tip appears on the left side of the receiver above the carrier screw. If you damage this old style ejector and can't replace it, or hand make another, the head of a suitable sized screw can be cut off and the threaded shank turned into the preexisting screw hole to act as a filler. The circular depression left on the inside of the receiver (where the screw head would have fitted) can be used to accept the removable newer style ejector and spring combination. The nubbin on the new ejector is the same diameter and thickness as the screw head you just cut off.

[NMLRA Guy]

RV Pilot76: That is an excellent reference link for slicking up an action

[NMLRA Guy]

Excellent link and info.

[Neo]

Thanks for a great article I going to check out the web site to smooth out my 1894 357

[wbrco]

Thanks for the excellent post. I won't be afraid to strip my 1894 .357 now!

[dragonrider]

In relation to what is above, would an original marlin carrier, in an 1894, be blued??? I seem to think that it would be simply because every thing else in there is blued. Am I wrong? The one in my gun right now is silver, actualy looks like a frosted boolit and it ain't doing well at all. I am getting some jamming on virtually every round I cycle and have read about the fix and it says replace the carrier, even gives the part # from Brownells. Any help is appreciated

[prs]

Referring back to deputy Al's first sentence in the #2 post above, I have never had one itty-bit of trouble in stripping a Winchester 1894 down to bare screws. On the other hand, getting it back together; that is another story. LOL

prs

[Nose Dive]

OK...OK...call me old.....call me stupid....call me 'old and stupid'...but there is a 'movie' or so.. pictures that show how to field strip an old Marlin 30/30 from the late 70s? Picture..step 1....picture...step 2....yadda...yadda...yadda??

Just got my brothers old 30/30.... from a closet from 25 years ago and i need to 'clean and inspect'....

thanks guys....

Nose Dive

Cheap, fast good. Kindly pick two.

[9.3X62AL]

I haven't looked for myself......but I can't help thinking that YouTube must have a number of such videos already in place. It is A LOT more complex a process to write out than it is to perform.

[Doc1]

Handy note: For basic field stripping and - especially - in the event of clearing hard jams, you will need to drop the lever. In the case of jams, the lever screw is under pressure and it's very easy to bugger the screw head. It is a worthwhile investment to spend $15 - $20 for an over-sized lever screw with a knurled rim. I know this is expensive for a single screw, but over time it will prove its worth many times over.

Best regards
Doc

[GregLaROCHE]

Don’t loose the ejector!

[Baltimoreed]

Don’t forget to put it back in either.

[MGySgt]

Don’t forget to put it back in either.

Been there, Done that, Got the T-Shirt

[LeftyDon]

Word of warning - early 1970's 1894's in 44 Mag have an ejector that is nearly impossible to buy and replace you lose it. A good gunsmith can make you a new one if you've got the bucks.

[Bvinsonhaler78]

I have a Marlin 1893 Octagon and I'm wondering the same. Anyone's input would be appreciated

[Norske]

A comment about the 1894 44 Magnum: The rifling twist rate is a slow 1 in 38", about 1/2 the twist rate of my ruger SBH revolvers. The handy little rifle won't stabalize a bullet longer than a 270 gr, but the SBH revolvers handle a 310 gr Lee cast bullet with excellent accuracy. Check the Marlin website for details like that if you want to carry the same ammo for a rifle and handgun.

[chasw]

A comment about the 1894 44 Magnum: The rifling twist rate is a slow 1 in 38", about 1/2 the twist rate of my ruger SBH revolvers. The handy little rifle won't stabalize a bullet longer than a 270 gr, but the SBH revolvers handle a 310 gr Lee cast bullet with excellent accuracy. Check the Marlin website for details like that if you want to carry the same ammo for a rifle and handgun.

FWIW, My M1894 in .44 mag really likes 200 grain bullets. They are just the right length for its 1in38 cut rifling. I bought a mold specifically for it, a 200 grainer with gas check. I haven't used it yet, but the rifle is a tack driver with 200 grain jacketed, XTPs or Gold Dots, over 6.8 gr of Winchester Super Target. - CW

[Deadeye Bly]

I just got my 94 marlin in 38/40 up and running. I bought it at the B'more show at a good price because the hammer would not stay cocked. When taking it down I found the locking bolt and ejector missing. I bought those and fixed the trigger/hammer issue then found the loading gate would not let me load ammo into the mag tube. I figured that out and fixed that issue. I took it out on Monday to shoot. All worked well and I now have a fully functioning rifle. I see where those ejectors would be easy to lose as it just fits loosely in a slot. I guess this halps keep Wisner's in business.