Sprue Plate retention screw prob.

[kbstenberg]

I just got a new - old stock Saeco #70 7mm bullet mold. The bullets drop good out of it but I have a problem with the screw that holds the sprue plate in place. The retention screw wants to turn with the sprue plate at times, an at other times it doesn't. I try to adjust the retention screw so that the SP can be opened with minimal effort, and it can swing out of the way by its own weight
The screw mite stay in place when I open the SP. But then when I shut the SP the screw will rotate with the Plate. So I can't completely close the SP.
Or at other times I will open the SP an the screw loosens with the movement of the SP. But when I shut the SP the screw stays in place so the SP is then loose on the mold face.
1 Yes the set screw is tight against the retention screw. An there is a peace of lead between the set screw an the retention screw.
2 The retention screw has a cup washer under it which I will replace with a waive washer before I cast with it next time
My question is what else can I do to keep the retention screw from moving?
Should I take the lead out from between the set screw an the retention screw? An let the two screws tighten on each other.
Thank you for any an all help in advance. Kevin

[Wayne Smith]

Is the set screw/lead long enough to actually contact the sprue plate screw? I know some of the Lyman screws were shouldered screws that had problems. I've never had a Saeco mold.

[deltaenterprizes]

try putting a small piece of brass or copper in the hole.

[MT Gianni]

Mark where the retention screw hits the sprue plate screw. File a small flat on it at that point.

[leadman]

Remove the retaining screw and the sprue plate screw. Then run the retaining screw back in and see if it goes into the area for the sprue plate screw. Sometimes the holes aren't tapped out far enough or just with a tapered starting tap. Sometimes the lead will actually prevent the screw from actually tightening against the sprue plate screw.
If the sprue plate screw has a split washer on it either bevel the edge so it does not catch or replace with the Beville (wave) washer. Lube with Bullplate lube.

[Echo]

Remove the retaining screw and the sprue plate screw. Then run the retaining screw back in and see if it goes into the area for the sprue plate screw. Sometimes the holes aren't tapped out far enough or just with a tapered starting tap. Sometimes the lead will actually prevent the screw from actually tightening against the sprue plate screw.

Sometime dropping a lead shot in front of the grub screw will solve this problem, and won't deface the SP hinge screw.

If the sprue plate screw has a split washer on it either bevel the edge so it does not catch or replace with the Beville (wave) washer. Lube with Bullplate lube.

+1 for the wave washer, too.

[kbstenberg]

I am extremely sorry for taking so long to respond to all the suggestions.
I found out the hard way there is (was) a brass stud between the set screw an the sprue retention bolt. which I damaged in finding it. I replaced it with an aluminum nail cut to length.
I also got several waive washers from the local hardware store. I used 2 of them under the retention screw.
The 2 changes that I made fixed the moving sprue plate problem.
Kevin

[Southron Sanders]

HOW TO SOLVE YOUR "LOOSE SPRUE PLATE HASSLE" PERMANENTLY:

1. Get access to a drill press if you don't already have one.

2. Take off sprue plate and screw from the mould

3. Select a drill a tad larger than the present Sprue plate hole in the plate.

4. Leave the handles on the mould.

5. Start on the top of the mould and DRILL ALL THE WAY THRU IT until drill comes out on bottom.

6. Drill thru the Sprue Plate screw hole with the same drill.

7. Go to hardware store and get the following:

(A) Stainless steel bolt the size of the hole in your mould. The bolt will go all the way thru the Sprue Plate and the mould and hang out the bottom by about an inch.

(B) Buy three washers, two nuts and a coil spring 1 & 1/2 inches long (or buy a longer one and cut it.) The coil spring should slide over the part of the bolt hanging out the bottom of the mould.

Now assemble your NO MORE HASSLE SPRUE PLATE BOLT.

(a) Put Sprue Plate on top of blocks. Put a washer on top of Sprue Plate.

(b) Insert bolt thru washer, sprue plate and entire mould.

(c) Slide spring on end of bolt protruding below blocks.

(d) Install the other washer now and compress spring with it.

(e) Put on BOTH NUTS. Adjust the tension on the spring and then "jam" the nuts together.

The spring will keep a constant "Live" pressure on the Sprue Plate. You can go thru an entire casting session without having to worry about the Sprue Plate screw loosening.

This is the system used on casting machines to keep the Sprue Plates from loosening when the machine is running and casting bullets.

IMPORTANT-From time to time, take a look at your jam screws to make sure that they aren't loosening.

This Bolt/Spring Assembly will save you a lot of Hassles-take my work for it because I have converted all of my moulds over to this system.

(

[MikeS]

Adding a spring to the sprue plate screw would probably work well with some moulds, but I don't know if that mod can be done to a SAECO mould, as the same hole that holds the sprue plate also holds the mould block to the handles. It might work if you drill out the hole in the handles as well. The later SAECO moulds use 2 separate screws, one to hold the mould block to the handles, one to hold the sprue plate on, the earlier ones use one screw for both functions.